newbee honcho build

[scottrod]

howsit all recently got the honcho rtr, fun truck looking to due some mods,
lift with the king 100mm shocks, axial 3/4 link set, and widen the trac width for more stability.

after the link set was installed with the 100mm shocks the pinion angle looks to be off,
when i shimmed the front upper 3 link ,the servo horn hit the front frame cross member under full compression
1st) Is that normal? i have heard others remove the cross member entirely but not sure if i should do that
or maybe just grind it for clearance?
2nd) is there more benifit to having the front 4 linked as apposed to the fatory 3 link setup?
the truck will be used for all around type use not comp ar any thing extreme at this point

thanks for any help or pointers

[6sharky9]

Pretty much anything over 93mm 94mm throws off a lot of things..I recently tried 96mm and had drive shaft problem as well as the truck just didn't track and drive as smoothly..It also tips over a lot easier.

I used rc fuel line and used it as stoppers inside the shock and it drives much better at 93mm of travel.

4 links are supposed to give you better articulation but to me the 3 link works just fine.,Switching to a 4 link causes drive shaft binding at large amounts of articulation..then this and that has to be changed then it just becomes a money pit..If you want a rock crawler than get a rock crawler..These are designed as kiss azz trail trucks with "SOME" rock crawling abilities

Save yourself the headache and lower your travel to 93/94mm and keep the 3 link up front.

Enhance its stock features and the truck becomes one extremely capable/reliable truck..start changing everything and its a money pit to make it work correctly and much more costly to repair...But keep this in mind..a well tuned "stocker" is a lot more fun and able to beat out much more expensive rigs...Ive heard of more than one story of a stock / or lightly modded scx10 taking the win at some events.

[fitisbamg]

I will say I use 110mm shocks with SOFT springs, no stoppers but it allows for alot of droop and articulation. But I'm using the 3 link set up. Front and rear but I have enough stiffness in the springs to not torque twist

[TacoCrawler]

I run Traxxas 100 mm CO's,
Losi sft coil springs, 3 hole pist., 20 wt oil (30 wt hot summer),
along with 4 link frnt/Rr.
I feel my suspension's articulation is working very well.

Thing is... my coil springs are on the soft side (Losi)
and static ride is squat some (about 1/2").
My junk weighs in around 6-7 lbs (varies when using tire weights)
Dual 3s 2100 LiPo's reside at each slider.

haven't had drive line issues with the stk WB D shafts.
^ well, short of getting rock hammer'd and dirty (squeaky)
prolly some 30 runs on them to date.
I added inserts inside the WB shafts for added beef (no twist)
clean and lube them religiously.

Besides great articulation, I can side hill purdy good
Body doesn't flop when turning, even at speed.
During max articulation each CO will compress/extend fully at each corner,
upper links get tucked up into the undercarriage as tight as one should want.

Another thing I did was extend each upper link rod length slightly (2-3 mm)
causing the axle housings (fr/Rr) to rotate (frnt) forward, (Rr.) rearward (caster) a little bit.
^ this can help reduce some drive line angle.
But it pushes the steering servo horn forward into the cross member during compression...
so the servo needs be shifted rearward some...
or the cross member must be notched slightly.
Could also affect drive ability at higher speeds.
But if you spend mo' money... there's a fix for everything

I don't roll faster then walking speeds...
so my changes seem to work fairly well for my needs.

oh... and for addressing the dreaded torque twist...
I add a 1/4" pre-load to just the driver's rear CO.
doesn't seem to limit compression of that particular CO
and tames the torque twist reasonably well.

sorry, I was bored

[therealrsr]

Is that normal? Yes, I eventually had to remove it for clearance. I compensated with a stonger front bumper mount.

Is there more benifit to having the front 4 linked as apposed to the fatory 3 link setup?
I think so for articulation. Plus, the three needed a washer to keep it on, but then it would pop off the pivot ball and rest against the washer. Not exactly fluid movement at that point.

[TacoCrawler]

^ I removed the 3 link front for the very same reason...
at first I attempted to correct the ball mount on the 3 link...
By inserting a steel ball into the link end...
Didn't really correct the issue and it wasn't worth the cost or hassle to correct the right way...
especially since the 4 link articulates better anyway.

Think Hot racing makes a better 3 link mount/ball assembly...
if one wishes to keep the three link design.
Thought is was HR... but may be another mfg'r (can't remember fer sure)

IMO... if using longer CO's then stock...
The 4 link set up is a better choice.

[scottrod]

sweet thanks for all the info

i think for now about going with the four link setup with the extra 4 link mount that came with the truck
look ing to notch the crossmember for clearance for now and see how that goes untill i an get another bumpermount/ cross member installed there for strength
as far as the shocks go ,imstill working on getting the oil bled correctly but looking to try them out at the 100mm height
i due have some traxxas co bbs to try out as well but like the looks of the kings, will look at a comparing the two at a later date

as far as clocking the steering knuckles? for better caster angles and stability are there many options with using the factory housing?
what due you all think about widening the track with the thicker traxxas hexes?

walking speeds on hiking trails is the intended use so far ,and turning without flipping over would be nice

again thanks for the help and the info, theres some much info at this point

[scottrod]

installed the steering links from the axial link kit and the straight cross steer bar hits the axle housing at the diff area when turned alost all the way left or right
i have installed it with the straight stlye revo ends

should i be using the offset rod ends to push out the center link?

i have grinded the front cross member for the servo arm clearance and am now getting full compression with the suspension
and the 3 link setup
going to due some runs with it before i swap to the front four link
thanks again for the input

[TacoCrawler]

Originally Posted by scottrod

installed the steering links from the axial link kit and the straight cross steer bar hits the axle housing at the diff area when turned alost all the way left or right
i have installed it with the straight stlye revo ends

should i be using the offset rod ends to push out the center link?

I would use the offset link ends... or a bent rod.
either should allow for clearance at the center chunk at full steering lock.

I use the offset rod ends...
the link rod just touches the axle's center chunk at full passenger lock.
Doesn't hit at all when at full driver's lock.
^ probably has to do with the short steering link off the servo on the driver's side.
I thought to change to a longer rod and steer using that connected to the passenger knuckle.
Not sure what, if any, difference it might make...
But was hoping it would be less of a bind at the servo link rod assembly.

[6sharky9]

Not sure why it hits on either of your trucks..i use straight traxxas 5347 ends and use 1/4 aluminum tubing to cover my 8-32 all thread and have no issues in either direction.
I might however when I put in the universal axles that should give me alittle more turn radius

[scottrod]

Originally Posted by 6sharky9

Not sure why it hits on either of your trucks..i use straight traxxas 5347 ends and use 1/4 aluminum tubing to cover my 8-32 all thread and have no issues in either direction.
I might however when I put in the universal axles that should give me alittle more turn radius

sharky
are you using the stock style c hubs, knuckles and servo arm?
mine are stock at this point and it does touch the axle a bit, at passenger full lock it seems like it limits travel but maybe only a little

thanks taco will change to the offset ends and see

do you guys use the servo saver at all after switching to the solid steering links?

I just stripped out the stock as-3 on my ridgecrest after putting on the solid links, light use around the yard maybe only 20 mins
so not sure if the same thing will follow with the honcho whith these?