Driveshaft question

[Itali83]

Ok guys, newbie alert! I just got off ebay what I thought was an axial scx10 rubicon jeep. Turns out it's an axial look alike, has flat frame rails, not channel and has been pieced together from a million odds and ends. Got it for pretty cheap and want to build a cheap functional rig for my wife to play with. The driveshafts are toast, the splines are all gouged up that it binds when going in and out of the slip joint. I've been looking on ebay for cheap replacements and find what look like just the slip tubes with no u joints on the ends for really cheap. A lot show them still on the factory axial tree from kits that just weren't used. Do the unjoints come off the drive shafts and transfer to others? I honestly haven't had time to look closely at mine to see if the unjoints will come off my worn out shafts. My truck has metal unjoints that look like real car ones and not the ball and socket type that I see a lot of kits have. Any help or pictures would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Ben

[SCREAMER]

Yes, the shafts and ends can be separated by sticking a 2mm hex down into the shaft and removing the countersunk screw. This is on a real Axial product though. Sucks you got burned man. I'd setup a dispute with eBay.

[Itali83]

I'll look closely at the shafts when I get a minute. I jumped on the truck too fast and noticed the description said axial based kit but title said axial scx10 so kinda my fault. It's built with axial running gear, has all aluminum suspension links and steering links so that's a plus. I just need to take it all apart and straighten frame, add missing crossmembers, replace the driveshafts and put a new 2 door jeep body on it. It's just a first truck for my wife to see if she will enjoy it and have some fun with my and my ascender. Thanks.
Ben

[Natedog]

Originally Posted by SCREAMER

Yes, the shafts and ends can be separated by sticking a 2mm hex down into the shaft and removing the countersunk screw. This is on a real Axial product though. Sucks you got burned man. I'd setup a dispute with eBay.

X2

For driveshafts buy the WB8 shafts, the older style that it sounds like you're looking at don't last long at all.

[Itali83]

Ok thanks. I see how they come off now. That explains why all the ones on ebay are just make and female tubes with no joints of either style on them. Ball or u-joint style.

Now I've just got to figure the right length because the suspension is set up now with the pinion almost downward and way too much of a driveline angle. Plus I've got to see if I need to move the axles in to fit the 2 door body I'm getting as there are 2 sets of holes in my frame to change the wheel base. Thanks again guys!

[TacoCrawler]

I still have the factory Wild Boar 8 drive shafts on my scx-10 honcho.

But the male spline shaft can become fubar from dragging on/thru the rocks, other, etc.
That's not the end of the world tho'
And is in fact, a common thing on a used scx-10 chassis.

The other issue is...
the male shaft splines can become twisted if too much power is applied ( 4s Lipo ^ will do that )*
*(tho' binding the drive train using a 3s can do that too)

I run 3s but I also insert a solid plastic dowel (6mm) into the male shaft
and this minimizes the possibility of spline twist.

The other thing you could do is replace the stock WB8's
with the newely designed WB8's that are included in the Deadbolt kit.

Those utilize two female shaft ends with a floating male center.
and so spline damage will not likely occur.

The center floating male spline shaft is not exposed to the elements.
And it's material is thicker so spline twist will be reduced to near nothing
as long as ya drive sanely and don't force a drive train bind.


Here is a link showing the newly designed WB8's...

Axial Racing - SCX10

^ consists of:
WB8-HD Drive shaft coupler/univ Set (Part # AX31148 x 1ea = (need 4)
WB8 Drive shaft Set (Part # AX31114 = builds 2 DS's)

complete set: tho' it's likely supporting vendors here offer them FS as well

Axial 1/10 SCX10 Deadbolt Front & Rear Center Driveshafts - WB8 Set

Of course you could also purchase aftermarket metal/steel DS's
but go with what's popular... as those could be a hit or miss as well.

The universal kits are normally not included with
the replacement plastic WB8 drive shafts.


I'll bet every component assembled on your scx-10
is simply upgraded components offered thru the after market
industry and you have not been deceived nor taken advantage of.

It is common for the original male drive shaft
to sustain damage to it's male spline during use.

The flat chassis is simply and aftermarket version
of the original chassis.
And I'll guess everything original bolts up directly.

IMO... you probably saved a ton of money buying what you got...
because if you spent your money for those upgrades...
You'd probably had have spent more then you did

[SCREAMER]

WB HDs are the only way to go. The older style is weak and an inferior design and needs to disappear through attrition. The simplest and cheapest way to get complete sets for front and rear is from RPP salvage yard. They have Wraith length and SCX10 length (12-12.3) available often. I've got 4-5 sets from them and they're about $20.

[Itali83]

Taco, thanks so much! That link to the new driveshafts is the way I'm going to go! For that price I can't go wrong and it looks to have both lengths so no matter how I set up the wheelbase it should work.

As for the truck the more I look at it I made out ok. I had to get a crossmember kit because all but the tranny mount were missing. But it has all metal steering and suspension plus bent(on ourpose) axial lower control arms for spares too. Thanks again guys!

[svt923]

The WB HD shafts are very durable, been running them on my truck with 3s and brushless power since the Deadbolt was released. I have been waiting for them to fail to replace them with something stronger but they haven't failed yet.