Servo binding frame

[jsix321@yahoo.com]

Does anyone know of a home fix for my axle mounted servo binding on the frame when my honcho flexes? Thinking about switching to a frame mounted servi but wanted to know if there's a easy fix for the stock setup. Thanks in advance

[TacoCrawler]

bind or contact with the frame ?

is it the servo's ear or the drag link creating concern ?

stock shock length or what ?

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An CMS is not going to increase compression or necessarily eliminate frame contact.
Adding the CMS can actually be more restrictive as to compression/extension... not actually an improvement.

An CMS is primarily done for scale realism, so the S. servo is not as visible.
But there is a slight trade off when going that route.

An CMS is not generally considered an improvement on the suspension's articulation capabilities or the steering's physical geometry.
In fact it can become more restrictive to the suspension's compression/extension, if improperly set up.

The drawback of keeping it AMS - 4 link, is that the servo is generally more visible.
The pros of a 4 link AMS is the S. geometry is better and the suspension allows for more movement.
But shock length and window positioning (upper mount) can be a contributing factor.

I prefer the 4 link AMS set up over a 3 link/panhard rod set up for better articulation/performance.
But then I not looking to net scale points by utilizing an CMS.

So in the world of scale realism... having an AMS does not promote scale realism because the S. servo generally remains more visible.

In short... CMS is an improvement for scale realism...
but not technically an improvement for better steering - susp. articulation.

I would only switch to CMS if garnering scale realism points were your intention.

[jsix321@yahoo.com]

Thanks for the reply and wisdom. I'm running 100mm king shocks. I added a lift kit but ran it toward the center (for both front and rear) to make my shocks angle in. I did this because I didn't want to lift the honcho, but wanted longer shocks for better articulation. It's the ears on the side of the servo that contact the frame when one of the front sides flexes.

[TacoCrawler]

What servo, is it the std size ?

Possibly the servo can be centered better ?

Maybe even 180* the servo plate to allow for shift to the other direction ?

100 mm shocks should fit an scx-10 without causing extreme drive joint angle or needing lowering or riser plates.
I do not like progressively leaned shocks on a scale rig, because that is generally less weight supportive.

Shocks work best if mounted vertically.

If the spring(s) rating is too heavy and the chassis is lite...
the shocks will be fully extended when static, and is not the best tuning set up IMO.

There should be some squat to the C. springs when static.
And should not be static at full extension.

In other words... say about 60/40 (% compression/extension)

I generally set up my shocks to rest squat nearer to 50/50

Spring tension is vital to keeping the lower C. spring in its position in the lower cup when the shocks fully extended.
So using the correct spring length and rate is necessary.

I have not owned the King shocks so I do not know what their diameter is, nor what C. spring diameter they utilize.

Do these include an adjustable pre-load collar at the top of the C. spring ?
If so that can be adjusted to take up any slack if the C. spring is short.

But if the C. spring is too long/too stiff... it will need be changed.

If ya can't measure for the shock body diameter... possibly someone else will chime in.

Bottom line... the servo ear could still possibly hit or bind at the frame rail if the servo can't be re-centered better.
And if that hit is too hard it could break the plastic ear off the servo.
So reinforcement to those servo ears is a reasonable suggestion if an impact could occur.

these are made by RCBros and are inexpensive to purchase.

ie: Not necessary on an alloy (eared) servo... but added none the less (2nd photo).

[jsix321@yahoo.com]

Thanks for the reply again. I did go ahead and take the lift/lower kit off and mounted the shocks back to the factory location and the servo doesn't seem to hit as bad as it did. I have a standard size servo. I have the springs set as soft as they'll get, and may add some weight to the rear or source different rear springs. With my battery and weight upfront it flexes good but sometimes the rear doesn't flex as well. I think a tick more weight either in wheels or axles will help. Thanks again for the help.