raw builders kit transmission question

[redbull8983]

just got through putting my kit together ,and im just not a fan of the plastic motor mount being molded into one piece with the transmission . What do you guys think about it ? Im thinking of pulling it out and replacing it with the traditional transmission with the removal motor mount .

[JatoTheRipper]

It’s a stupid, cost cutting design for sure, but you probably won’t have any issues with it.

[OSRC]

It's certainly thick enough. I doubt it will cause any trouble.

[svt923]

There is some good and some bad.

The plastic is super rigid so there is no flex to mess with gear mesh and the screw holes that hold the transmission to the skidplate don't strip out like you are threading into warm butter.

I wouldn't go back and install an old plastic case just to have an aluminum motor plate but an aluminum case with an aluminum motor plate is a nice upgrade although not an immediate need.

[lonleycreeper]

I agree with Svt.

I ran brushless 3000kv 4 pole motor on 3 s through mine with zero issues.

Heat might be an issue, but you would be hurting a motor to get enough heat to melt the plastic imo.

[Xx Losungen xX]

Money spent on that really could be spent elsewhere for a really long time and do more for your rig.

[LSXGMC]

I’d bet that there’s not anyone out there who has had any kind of failure or issue with it. It’s fine. The plastic is strong and thick enough. You can hear/feel the grit of the reinforcement in the plastic when assembling the trans.

[redbull8983]

Originally Posted by LSXGMC

I’d bet that there’s not anyone out there who has had any kind of failure or issue with it. It’s fine. The plastic is strong and thick enough. You can hear/feel the grit of the reinforcement in the plastic when assembling the trans.

I definitely felt the grit trying to put it together lol . I ended up with a socket head screw with the same thread and soome grease to cut the thread before i put the flat head one in it

[Xx Losungen xX]

Originally Posted by hobbyjumper

stock flat head screws.

I've never seen flat head screws anywhere in an Axial kit, only hex hardware, where did you buy your kit??

[TheLetterJ]

I believe most people are referring to counter-sunk type screws as flathead. Drove me nuts for the longest time, but it's so commonly used, I'll just have to accept it!

[Xx Losungen xX]

Originally Posted by TheLetterJ

I believe most people are referring to counter-sunk type screws as flathead. Drove me nuts for the longest time, but it's so commonly used, I'll just have to accept it!

Yup, I'm a potato, moving along now hehe

[Xx Losungen xX]

Originally Posted by hobbyjumper

Sorry, my apologies to the audience. In eastern Canada, a flat-head screwdriver is called a slot screwdriver and is designed to turn slotted screws (badly it would seem). Flat-head screws are screws with a flat top, designed to be installed in a countersunk hole, and can have any hole pattern, though we prefer Robertson, as it's the best. :-)

Funny...I had never heard the term hex until this hobby. I grew up calling them Allen heads, since you turned them with an Allen key, or less often an Allen "wrench".

Semantics lol.

I'm from Western Canada, never used the term "slotted" in 20 years on the tools. These screws I mistakenly took for my version of "flathead", I've always referred to as countersunk screws as they go inside a countersunk hole. One man's logic is another man's confusion, life is good!

Useless fact: Allen comes from the name of the patent holder for a hexagonal screw head in the early 1900s. Just like Robertson and square-head screws.

[Xx Losungen xX]

Originally Posted by hobbyjumper

Yeah, I always assumed Allen was a Brit side off the pond thing but it's merrcan. Now explain how panhead screws get their name, when they are the opposite of flat like a pancake.

Think more like the pan you would use to cook pancakes. Flat top, rounded sides, if you flip the screw it has the profile of a pan.

[mikemcE]

I just built a raw kit a bit back. Im running this Holmes 13t crawlmaster on 3s. I beat the snot out of it and am not gentle. The truck is a beast for what it is. You can find it in the thread called Bea.

That said I am impressed with the new grey plastic and toughness. I run the slipper locked down, not a peep from the case and gears. I built it with red and tacky grease.

I have ordered a metal plate and alloy case for down the road, but am honestly surprised at how tough this one is vs the older dark ones.

[dirtman71]

I did switch out the gray trans for the aluminum hot racing one I already had. In the past it never took very much to over tighten and strip threads. Especially when it gets removed a bunch.
Yes this gray plastic is different. Pain in the ass to get screws started. It seems like a tuff case. Haven’t heard of any issues. The only reason I switched it out is because the hot racing case has a single sided slipper with a 48p spur. Not the 32p spur. It runs super silent and I haven’t striped it out yet. Same spur for 5 years or so. Almost time for a new one looking a bit worn

[wblteen]

Been running one for over a year with a Castle Slate 2850 on 3s. Beating the crap out of it. No issues

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

[DIRT HAWG]

Originally Posted by redbull8983

just got through putting my kit together ,and im just not a fan of the plastic motor mount being molded into one piece with the transmission . What do you guys think about it ? Im thinking of pulling it out and replacing it with the traditional transmission with the removal motor mount .

Look into using the Element Enduro tranny with overdrive.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[DIRT HAWG]

What mods did you have to do to put the Element Enduro tranny in your SCX10II.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[wblteen]

Originally Posted by hobbyjumper

3S here too, and this kind of abuse.

I'd your not abusing your not using. Lol

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk