Soze's SCX10 III Jeep JLU Build

[boldfin]

Originally Posted by soze

Thanks guys. I really like the color. I like a lot of the Pro-Line colors that they have.

My only problem is... I still had to back it with Tamiya Black rattle can. I was trying to avoid rattle cans completely to avoid off-gassing fumes and the wife's super powered toxic smell detector.

I don't know if it was my prep work, or the way I painted it (multiple layers time in between), but the paint still felt soft after sitting out for a week. Just handling the body some of the paint kind of scraped off with my fingernails.
It would appear the paint had not hardened enough like the Tamiya paints do. So I sprayed Tamiya Black over all of it so that the Tamiya paint would harden up so I could handle the body without worrying about scraping off paint.

I definitely used less rattle can paint overall which is good. So at least I cut down on that. If I have to put one rattle can backing over it, then so be it.
I'll be experimenting more with it and seeing if maybe I have to spray even thinner layers than I did last time and scuff the body up more. It could all just be my inexperience with airbrushing as this was my first time.

I've painted three bodies with Pro-Line paint (same color too - Slate Blue) and all three have had issues with paint adhesion/paint getting scraped off with very minimal effort. I even had a "pro" help me with the paint job on my most recent body. He laid down some really light coats with the proper overlap and we let them dry overnight in between coats.

This third body has been drying now for over a week, and just inspecting the finish, I can't say it appears any different than the first two I shot myself. It's really a soft finish for sure. My airbrush has a .5 nozzle, and I'm running about 30lbs of pressure. Paint flows nicely, so I'm not thinning this paint at all.

I ended up backing my first two bodies with Tamiya PS black also, and it has helped, but still getting some scraped-off paint. I'll probably end up backing this third one as well. I like the darker tone the black backing gives the Slate Blue, even if it doesn't completely prevent paint scraping off.

If anyone has figured out the secret to making Pro-Line paints work better, we're all ears... I'll probably keep using it as-is, though because I too like the better color selection.

[soze]

Now that the stock build of the Axial SCX10III is complete, I proceed with adding front brass portal covers and Team Garage Hack Mild Overdrive Portal Gears.

[soze]

Finally took the SCX10III out for a run! The SCX10III Jeep JLU has such a nice body that I didn't want to trash it right away. So I drove it a lot more deliberately and carefully on the way up El Modena's technical side. Given the stock tires and foams with the heavy body, it actually did better than I expected. Next will be to try changing up the tires and foams.

I plan to paint up another lighter body to use with this rig so that I can give it a run at places like CDM where the rocks are unforgiving to the body, as it would be a shame to ruin such a nice looking body.

[2mtech]

Noice!! Still jealous of that crawl spot.

[soze]

Backlog

Got to take the SCX10III out again on another trail run. Still trying to baby this body as much as I can, but I think I'll start driving it more as far as driving it in a scale manner goes.

[soze]

Took the SCX10 III Jeep JLU out for another trail run. I'm starting to get the itch to add more costmetic scale touches to this body now. As a trail rig, it's pretty fun to wheel. Still considering whether I want to put the straight axles underneath it, and save the portals for a flat rail build though.

[Goos3]

Did the PL paint ever harden up to your liking?

[soze]

Originally Posted by Goos3

Did the PL paint ever harden up to your liking?

Honestly, I'm just really careful now. It might have hardened up since I don't bother worrying about it anymore, but I've painted a few more bodies since with the pro-line paint. I started using a heat gun to dry the paint immediately to help it harden.

[Goos3]

Originally Posted by soze

Honestly, I'm just really careful now. It might have hardened up since I don't bother worrying about it anymore, but I've painted a few more bodies since with the pro-line paint. I started using a heat gun to dry the paint immediately to help it harden.

Thanks for the insight.

Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk

[OSRC]

Now that Fascolor is gone, Proline paint is my go-to. It is quite soft until it hardens up....takes anywhere from a day or two to a week depending on thick the paint is. I found that out the hard way as well. I use a hairdryer to set the paint between coats, and then try and give it a day or two before handling if I can. It does hold up well once fully dry.