Thanks B, I'll link that in the appropriate post on page 1.

A couple of tricks I figured out are

Buy a short extention for the esc to receiver that way you can unplug to use your card wo having to open the box.

And I just got a couple of pieces od electrical tape and taped the two short sides of the gasket to the box, it seems to still seal fine"thumbsup"

So I have had my writh for about a month now I am chasing this problem and I can't seem to figure it out it will run and connect to the radio just fine but say a day or two down the road I go to run it and I turn it on and just beeps at me like it won't connect to the radio but give a few min ( most of the time ) and it works alright till I drive more then 30 or so feet and then I lose it .. And it's stock with the exception of a hitec steering servo and a novac motor rock star 45 . Any suggestion

What servo is it?

It's a hs645mg but it was doing it before I did the servo and the motor

Ok it's likely one of two things.

1: if it works until you turn then you may have a bad BEC inside the ESC.

2: if it seems to be COMPLETELY random then it may be a bad radio or receiver.

Ok sweet I will check those to things out thanks for another direction to look in Thanks

Do that and then you can contact Axial if something came to you bad.

Few thing's I've encounter after a weekend of camping with abusive power. Wheel's loosened and rounded the hex. Retighten before running and about halfway through a 5000 mah pack now. Had to tightened the slipper all the way down as it would spin the nut off on hard braking or full reverses. Stock lockers like to bust the ears off and spin in diff cup. Looking at using aftermarket steel lockers with a 3mm pin out of the original ax10 lockers. Old traxxas 3mm rod ends don't hold up to countless double backflip attemps. Used some old Tmaxx titanium turnbuckles as links, but they are bending.

I recommend one piece lockers, get rid of the plastic diff cup.

Go to 4mm rod ends ASAP. The titanium links from VP and Chaotic may seem pricy but are worth the investment in a heavy high power rig.

Only one piece steel lockers I've found still for sale are RCPCrawler's. Any other out there still avaliable?

VP links are on the list as soon as the RC fund has recooped.:lmao:

I can't remember if Stage 3 racing still makes them or not.

Haven't been able to find them yet. Main reason why I'm looking at using the 3mm pin and a steel locker in a stock diff cup. Tried drilling the sintered cross's, but that's just a drill bit killer with no success.

Can you show pictures? The v.p. links are awsome! And well worth the money. A bit pricey.

Pictures of?

I did a search for wheel weights, couldn't find any info. What is the best way to install those stick on tape weights? Just put them around the wheels? so you have even weight distribution right?

Yup, nothing more complicated than that. I should probably add that to the guide.

Fantastic resource!

My Q: I am liking the scale look of a particular 1.9" rim, does anyone make a 1.9 tire that gets close to the height of the 5.5" Ripsaws?

Thanks for doing my homework!

-Billybongo

Nope, there really isn't a 1.9 you can run on these axles that will look right.

Clicking noise
 

Hey, was wondering if anyone has heard a clank when switching between forward and reverse from a stop or slow roll. Nothing at speed, if you pick it up and rock forward/reverse you can hear it. Kinda sounds like the way it did if you put a playing card in your spokes of a bicycle.

Stock wraith internals motor, trans, gears and stuff.

Thanks in advance.