my first axial wraith build

[PatsPosts]

I posted some help for a newbie the other day when i thought I might as well go into more detail to help others spark ideas. I was looking to build a 4WS crawler so using rccrawler I looked for answers on how to get started. I found a lot of help so I guess you could say this is my interpretation of what is needed to be done to turn a wraith into a crawler, as opposed to the racer that it is out of the box. I purchased a wraith poison spyder then played with the stock setup ... oh how true the posts are that its not a crawler. Here is a peek at the finished jeep.



Getting started with my first real crawler it was a matter of learning what modes were needed for my kit to make it really useful. I am more of a parts list kind of person so lets start with a list of parts that I used in my build:
1 ) Axial Jeep® Wrangler Wraith-Poison Spyder Rock Racer RTR

2 ) I upgraded both the front servo and of course had to buy a second for the 4WS to a high torque servo

3 ) to start I used the stock drag link and tie rod ... I liked the idea of keeping the plastic flex so I can bind next to a rock on one side so I ordered another stock one Amazon.com: Axial AX80073 AR60 OCP Steering Link: Toys & Games I think the upgraded metal ones are a disadvantage but I may be alone on that thought.

4 ) next I needed to convert the rear axle to be able to steer Amazon.com: Axial Wraith * FRONT DOGBONES / REAR AXLE * Rock Racer 4WD AX30419 AX30776: Toys & Games and Amazon.com: Axial AX80061 XR10 Steering Knuckles Set: Toys & Games

5 ) a servo plate was needed but I couldn't buy a cheap plate so I bought this kit that came with the plate Amazon.com: Axial Wraith * BATTERY & ESC TRAY & RECEIVER BOX * Rock Racer 4WD AX90018: Toys & Games

6 ) I used a QuadSteer unit to control the 4WS compatible with a 3rd Channel toggle switch for in the future if I wanted to switch between steering modes I can do so with this same 4WS controller.

7 ) turns out I needed to adjust my rear servo in relation to the front, I found an easy and cheap way. Turns out in the Traxxas world turn buckle style links are common but not so much in the crawler world. I used my traxxas link for the rear of my wraith for easier tuning Amazon.com: Traxxas 5539 58mm Turnbuckles Camber Links for Front or Rear: Toys & Games (it was a perfect fit!)

8 ) I upgraded the tires to Pit Bulls Rock Best 2 Amazon.com: 2.2 Rock Beast II with Komp Kompound, No Foam: Toys & Games (note!! foam not included. I had some extra memory foam laying around so I was able to make my own foams ... I really like the memory foam!!!)

9 ) flipped the rear shock mounts for a lower ride and lower CG

10 ) relocated the battery to the front (no purchase necessary) Moving battery tray to front and upgraded to a LiPo battery

11 ) changed my gearing to a 15/87 with a 35T motor ... this was a huge help for crawling, otherwise the wraith is not geared to crawl out of the box

12) metal steering arms (this is a MUST) with a heavy duty 25T aluminum servo horn arm with extra threads





Here is a closer look at some modes that you may have not of recognized from the photos:

i) add the chick ... yeah I am sure you saw that but did you notice the dash was moved back. I see so many move the steering wheel but that looks funny so I moved the dash back. It was much easier than I thought. Some double sided tape and foam that came in misc retail packages did the trick

ii) I added clips for easier battery access. they are from my traxxas battery holder. I had some extra after a 3 cell mod, I don't know if they can be purchased separately but they can be seen in this kit Amazon.com: Battery and receiver hold down with hardware: Toys & Games

iii) I had to cut away some plastic bars that were over the front steering. This was the only way I could get it to set lower. sorry I don't have pictures.

iv) I added the wheel extenders that comes stock with the Wraith Poison Spyder RTR kit and cut the fender off the front of the body. This was to help with clearance after I lowered the crawler for a lower ride... about middle ride height worked good for me.

I hope this helps others with ideas. I purposely didn't upgrade other parts to metal and such because I am not a big believer in the cost vs benefit. I honestly think this is a good setup that can keep up with any other ride out there. Anything more would be overboard in my opinion ... but then again there is nothing wrong with that.

Cheers!