How to get more articulation and add wheel weight???

[rockinclint]

So I just got my wraith last week and drove it for the first time today. I'm new to crawling (been driving a Trekker for two months, highly modified) but want to take it up a notch and go more Serious! I immediately know the changes I am going to make, like moving battery forward, I already lowered the shocks, I'm going to fab up a better steering linkage and other things, but what I want to know is how do I get better articulation out of the stock shocks? I am looking to make this a primo rock crawler. I'm interested in crawling only, so I want maximum torque and huge articulation! I know I need the ride height lower and more weight up front and out on the wheels! SO, what do you all suggest for better articulation, better low end torque (gear-wise) and how should I add weight on my wheels to get the weight out on the axles?
On my Trekker I cut the Springs a little bit in order to lower ride height and also reduce the tension from the springs in order to allow the axles to flex much easier. It worked great! Would this theory work on my wraith to achieve the same results?

Thanks anyone for your tips in order to help me make this thing a killer crawler!

-Clint

[HahnsB2]

Well you can cut down the stock bump stops in the shocks, that's about it. Really more articulation isn't that useful, getting the weight as far forward and low as possible and minimizing torque twist is what's going to make the big difference. Also make sure to flip the lower link mounts if you haven't already.

[Duuuuuuuude]

The Wraith has plenty of articulation. More will only hurt performance. Flexing looks cool (apparently), but in excess is worthless.

Before adding weight, move the battery under the hood. Then add small amounts of weight until you can balance the rig where the lower front links bolt on to the skid. You may find that you don't need to add much (if any) weight at all.

For better torque, and less torque twist, either go with OD/UD or UD/UD gears in the axles. Some like OD/UD better, I prefer UD/UD.

[mikebecher]

I've found that SD (standard drive) up front and UD in the rear works best for me. Having the front wheels turn just a bit faster than the rear really lets the front end pull through corners rather than the back wheels pushing you off your line. This is a moot point though if you're going to use a dig unit in which case I agree with the Duuude in going UD/UD.

[rockinclint]

Originally Posted by Duuuuuuuude

The Wraith has plenty of articulation. More will only hurt performance. Flexing looks cool (apparently), but in excess is worthless. Before adding weight, move the battery under the hood. Then add small amounts of weight until you can balance the rig where the lower front links bolt on to the skid. You may find that you don't need to add much (if any) weight at all. For better torque, and less torque twist, either go with OD/UD or UD/UD gears in the axles. Some like OD/UD better, I prefer UD/UD.

Ok, awesome info here. I'll work on some of those mods right away. However, please forgive me as I have no idea what the "UD/UD, or OD/UD" mean. Can you help me understand it better and what would I do to make these mods or purchase the parts that I need?

Thanks guys! Just trying to really learn all of the stuff...!

[tjcj]

UD = under drive gears. od = over drive gears. Their referring to the gears ( ring and opinion ) in the axle housings. Stock gearing is 38t/13t . under is 43t/13t and over is 36t/14t

[rockinclint]

Originally Posted by tjcj

UD = under drive gears. od = over drive gears. Their referring to the gears ( ring and opinion ) in the axle housings. Stock gearing is 38t/13t . under is 43t/13t and over is 36t/14t

ok, thanks for the information! that is exactly what I was wanting to know! So where would I get the 43t gear to replace in my rear housing? I will probably go with the Standard in the front and UD in the rear to achieve a slightly stronger pull in the front.

[Sevastra]

RPPHobby.com, CKRC, SuperShafty, etc..

Too much articulation will get you stuck and flipped over more than it helps. A good rule of thumb is a tire height of flex, and if you can get the lower links level with the skid that's an excellent ride height. It's better to drag the belly across rocks than to roll over or get a wheel hung up.

[DeviledEggs]

I like the hd/ud setup in my wraith. It tends to help the front end stay planted on steep climbs. You can also rebuild your shocks with low rebound. A droopy setup seems to crawl best- if you dont mind a bit of belly dragging.

[mikebecher]

Originally Posted by rockinclint

ok, thanks for the information! that is exactly what I was wanting to know! So where would I get the 43t gear to replace in my rear housing? I will probably go with the Standard in the front and UD in the rear to achieve a slightly stronger pull in the front.

You want AX30402 for the rear and should replace the front with the HD, standard ratio AX30395. The stock gears won't last long in the front, especially with UD in the rear.

[DeviledEggs]

^^ Agreed. No sense in just upgrading the rear. Use the HD stock ratio gears in the front. Helical cut machined gears, better mesh.

[rockinclint]

Originally Posted by DeviledEggs

I like the hd/ud setup in my wraith. It tends to help the front end stay planted on steep climbs. You can also rebuild your shocks with low rebound. A droopy setup seems to crawl best- if you dont mind a bit of belly dragging.

I would love to look at doing this to my shocks, so how would I go about rebuilding my shocks in order to create more droop?

[Duuuuuuuude]

Originally Posted by mikebecher

I've found that SD (standard drive) up front and UD in the rear works best for me. Having the front wheels turn just a bit faster than the rear really lets the front end pull through corners rather than the back wheels pushing you off your line. This is a moot point though if you're going to use a dig unit in which case I agree with the Duuude in going UD/UD.

My 1.9 Wraith has UD front and rear and no dig. I like it a lot. When my Bomber arrives it'll be set up the same. It really goes a long way towards killing torque twist.

My comp rig was set up SD/UD, and then OD/UD and yes, there was a noticeable improvement in steering and climbing.

[DeviledEggs]

Originally Posted by rockinclint

I would love to look at doing this to my shocks, so how would I go about rebuilding my shocks in order to create more droop?

Pull the shock apart. Refill em and let the bubbles rise out f the oil. When you go to tighten the caps make sure the shocks are fully compressed. Once back together the shocks should pull the shafts back in when you pull them out. You may also want a softer spring as well.

[jprather77]

Originally Posted by Duuuuuuuude

The Wraith has plenty of articulation. More will only hurt performance. Flexing looks cool (apparently), but in excess is worthless.

Before adding weight, move the battery under the hood. Then add small amounts of weight until you can balance the rig where the lower front links bolt on to the skid. You may find that you don't need to add much (if any) weight at all.

For better torque, and less torque twist, either go with OD/UD or UD/UD gears in the axles. Some like OD/UD better, I prefer UD/UD.

Can you please explain about the lower links and how to move battery upfront

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

[Sevastra]

Originally Posted by jprather77

Can you please explain about the lower links and how to move battery upfront

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Instead of the center of weight being in the center of the skid, if you can balance it out at the front of the skid where the links attach it'll crawl much better. Hopefully that explains it better without a picture?

[MonsterPower]

With the comment about the links (correct me if I'm wrong) I'm sure he's talking about weight bias and adjusting what weight you currently have to move 70-75% of it towards the front of your wraith. When he says move your battery foward he's referring to doing the hood hinge mod where you take two small clamps from your parts tree and attach them to your hood and the bottom of the window frame tube. This allows the hood to hinge open just as a traditional 1:1. The battery lays on its side, width wise, along that same window frame tube.

[jprather77]

Yeah but what do I move up there lol

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[Duuuuuuuude]

I hack up the battery trays to fit on its side, in between the firewall and the rx box. IIRC, there are a couple of vendors that make drop in boxes for the front that makes it that much easier.