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Thread: Wraithzilla II Build... Well, Assembly really

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Old 07-20-2016, 05:04 PM   #41
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Default Re: Wraithzilla II Build... Well, Assembly really

Ok I need a little help. I am running the proline slash shocks on this truck and I installed the springs that came with them. I believe I used like 35-40w shock oil but when I drop the truck it just bounces. What springs/oil should I use to make the suspension soft. I want it to be like my race buggies where when I set it on a table the suspension compresses slightly. If it matters I am also running CI comp/firm all the way around and it will probably be just under 10lbs when I am done with it
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Old 07-20-2016, 05:29 PM   #42
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Default Re: Wraithzilla II Build... Well, Assembly really

My personal opinion is your oil weight is nearly twice as thick as needed in a crawler.
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Old 07-20-2016, 06:25 PM   #43
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Did you vent the tires? The CI DD inner foams block the holes in the wheels and you need to put holes in the tires themselves.
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Old 07-20-2016, 08:32 PM   #44
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Default Re: Wraithzilla II Build... Well, Assembly really

So what kind of oil weight we talkin? Like 20w? What about the springs? They seem stiff. Any advice on which would be softer than what comes with the power strokes? I really think the thing is bouncing off the ground cause the springs are compressing at all when it hits the ground.

I didn't vent the tires. I want to be able to run in water and not get a ton in the tires. They do seem to vent ok as is tho? When I squeeze them they expand right back out. I may still do it tho. Would I just pop 2 holes in each tire with a belt hole punch or something?
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Old 07-21-2016, 06:33 AM   #45
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Default Re: Wraithzilla II Build... Well, Assembly really

Pick up the Powerstroke spring kit, that should get you dialed in. Losi 2.75 in springs from the XXX series could be an option as well.

https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...sortment-rear/

The oil weight will probably be difficult to nail down until you find the right spring combination.
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Old 07-21-2016, 10:46 AM   #46
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Default Re: Wraithzilla II Build... Well, Assembly really

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Originally Posted by rngrchad View Post
My personal opinion is your oil weight is nearly twice as thick as needed in a crawler.
The oil weight is what will determine the force and speed of rebound, he needs to decrease the spring rate until he gets some give in those bad boys.
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Old 07-21-2016, 09:29 PM   #47
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Sounds good ill pick up that spring set. Thanks
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Old 08-16-2016, 09:20 PM   #48
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Did you vent the tires? The CI DD inner foams block the holes in the wheels and you need to put holes in the tires themselves.
Anybody have a suggestion on how to vent the tires while they are already mounted on the beadlock wheels? Can I just heat up a shirt hanger and melt a couple holes in the tire? I don't want to have to remove the tires from the wheels. They were a pain in the ass to mount and don't want to go thru it again at the moment
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Old 08-16-2016, 11:04 PM   #49
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Anybody have a suggestion on how to vent the tires while they are already mounted on the beadlock wheels? Can I just heat up a shirt hanger and melt a couple holes in the tire? I don't want to have to remove the tires from the wheels. They were a pain in the ass to mount and don't want to go thru it again at the moment
Yeah, that should work. I use an old soldering iron. You'll need to run it through a few times to get a decent hole, the melted rubber tends to fill back in.
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Old 09-06-2016, 10:04 PM   #50
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Wasn't sure how this was going to work but the panels came out fitting perfect. A lot better than the ones I tried cutting out by hand. I took a bunch of measurements on the frame and modeled the panels in solidworks And water jet cut them from .025" thk steel. The only thing I am not sure about is how to attach some of the panels to the frame in locations that don't have nuts welded in (like the rear deck and some of the interior panels). How should I do that? Can I just use silicone? Like run a thin bead along the frame edge then lay down the panel? I don't really want to use tire glue and mess up the powder coat if I ever need to remove the panel.

http://rs27.pbsrc.com/albums/c195/er...h=480&fit=clip
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Old 09-07-2016, 09:32 AM   #51
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Default Re: Wraithzilla II Build... Well, Assembly really

Silicone would be your best bet. But it will come off eventually, that's the only downfall.
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Old 09-07-2016, 10:12 AM   #52
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Originally Posted by NWHavok View Post
Silicone would be your best bet. But it will come off eventually, that's the only downfall.
Yea silicone is the only thing I can think of that won't mess up the powder coat
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Old 09-07-2016, 10:19 AM   #53
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Default Re: Wraithzilla II Build... Well, Assembly really

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Originally Posted by slapjack View Post
The only thing I am not sure about is how to attach some of the panels to the frame in locations that don't have nuts welded in (like the rear deck and some of the interior panels). How should I do that? Can I just use silicone? Like run a thin bead along the frame edge then lay down the panel? I don't really want to use tire
Drill some holes in the panels and use zip ties or 1/4 cable clamps to hold them to the frame.
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Old 09-12-2016, 07:11 AM   #54
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Default Re: Wraithzilla II Build... Well, Assembly really

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Originally Posted by svt923 View Post
Drill some holes in the panels and use zip ties or 1/4 cable clamps to hold them to the frame.
Good idea. Thanks. I spent some time yesterday making some more panels. Man it is a lot of work especially using the dremel to grind holes and cutouts to custom fit things that protrude through the panel like the shock towers. It is starting to come together into something recognizable now. IMO any ways. Here are some pics. I am still waiting on the 5" rigid light bar to show up. Should be here this week. This is my first truck like this so any input is appreciated. I have to figure out a way to mount a radiator to the back to cover the back of the driver figure in a way that it wont flop around. That is the next thing on my list.
The other thing I am going to be working on is the vp light bar. I have they hey ok controller for it but I am wondering can I run it right off the main truck 3s LIPO or will I need a seperate LIPO for it? And if u can run it off the main LIPO will it drain the battery fast? I am also wondering how I setup my Futaba 4pls to switch it on and off with the heyok controller. Any help is greatly appreciated.




























Last edited by slapjack; 09-12-2016 at 10:37 AM.
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Old 10-04-2016, 10:40 PM   #55
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Default Re: Wraithzilla II Build... Well, Assembly really

Just a couple panels left to install skins on and I can finally take it out this this weekend. I like how it is turning out. The spawn driver sits up a little too high but oh well. And if I could do it over I would have mounted the light bar on the outside in front of the windshield instead of inside the cab. I wanted to protect it in rollovers but doesn't quite look right imo






Last edited by slapjack; 10-04-2016 at 10:43 PM.
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Old 10-07-2016, 06:20 AM   #56
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Default Re: Wraithzilla II Build... Well, Assembly really

Finished!









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Old 10-07-2016, 09:28 AM   #57
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Default Re: Wraithzilla II Build... Well, Assembly really

awesome
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Old 10-07-2016, 01:11 PM   #58
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Looks great
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Old 10-07-2016, 02:11 PM   #59
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Nice job sir. I can only hope mine turns out half as nice as yours.
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Old 10-07-2016, 11:28 PM   #60
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Default Re: Wraithzilla II Build... Well, Assembly really

Thanks guys!
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