Holy Roller's XR-10 Build

[Almighty Malach]

You have some scarily long fingernails.

[gunnar]

Thanks for the great pics of the rear housing. I think for the cutting brakes, some type of disconnecting locker will be used, judging by the open spaces on each side. Hard to tell, but it looks like there might be additional bearing pockets outboard of those spaces, supporting the end of new, shorter axles that might be used.

Can't wait to get my kit.

Awesome thread

[roksloski]

Very well done build thread.........

[Holy Roller]

The section is on assembling the links.

Bag E contains the parts for the link build ups.

Here is the contents of Bag E:



Once again I layed out the parts that was needed per the instructions.



Here is the assembly of the front lower links.

The lower link slide piece for the front axles has the shock mount molded into them. The portion with the shock mount becomes part of the link when the link is assembled. The entire length of the lower slide link protects the metal link and allow the entire link after it is assemble to slide over obsticles easier that the old standard metal link.

The first thing you will need to do is to screw in one of the M3x16 set screws into the sleeved portion of the front axle lower link slide.





I then slide the 7x73mm threaded aluminum pipe into the lower link slide and screwed it down hand tight.



Then you install the metal ball end into the bend rod end. NOTE: the metal ball end is push into the smaller side of the rod end.



Install the M3x16 set screw in the end of the rod end.



Next you will screw in the rod end onto the other end of the threaded aluminum pipe.



Install the metal ball end into the straight rod end provided. NOTE: The metal ball end is pressed in through the smaller hole in the rod end.



Install the set screw into the rod end and screw the rod end into the other side of the lower link slide piece where the shocks attach.



Repeat for the other side. Make sure you install the bent rod end the opposite way and the first one. This will give you a left and a right link.

[Holy Roller]

The rear lower link assembly:

First thing you need to do is slide the 7x94mm threaded aluminum link into the rear lower link slider.



You will notice on the rear lower link slider that there is a built in spacer on one end. This is very important to remember this when install the rod ends later.





Next is to build up the rod ends. You will notice that there are two different length set screws that come in Bag E. one length is M3x16 and the other is M3x20.





After you push the metal ball ends into the bent rod ends. NOTE: The metal ball ends are push in through the smaller hole in the rod end. You need to install the M3x16mm set screw into two of the bent rod ends and the M3x20mm set screws in to the other two bent rod ends. Install the bent rod end with the longer set screw into the side of the link with the built in spacer. Install the rod end with the short set screw into the threaded aluminum pipe.



Repeat the process for the other side. Make sure that the bent rod ends go opposite directions so that there is a left and right link.



Upper link assembly:

Take the remaining set screws and install them into the eight special bent rod ends made for the Hi-clearance links.



Take the rod ends and screw them into the hi-clearance links. The rod ends are bent so make sure you make two right side links and two left side links.

[squirrel886]

Wow, very detailed!

[BGGruff]

Great build! Finally something other than pics of boxes and in great detail too.
Everything looks like typical Axial fashion with thorough packaging and great instructions. I really like the way the axles are done and they look tough.
Keep up the good work!

[Holy Roller]

Shock Assembly:

Bag F contains all the parts needed to build your Axial shocks.

I followed the pointers that Bender layed out for assembling Asials comp shocks for optimum performance. If you follow these simple instructions the build up is fairly easy. There are alot of small details in the build up that if you pay attention too will make a huge difference in how they perform. Like Bender says "Nothing is more annoying then rebuilding a set of shocks only to see they've started leaking after a couple of runs."

Here is the contents of Bag F:



Axial has a couple upgrade parts for their shocks. They have Aluminum Preload Collars and Aluminum Shock Caps. Tom had a couple packages of Axial shocks that he was not needing and I decided to use the upgrade parts on my shock build up. These parts do not change the build up over what is in the kit except that you have to install an o-ring into the Aluminum Preload Collars that you would not with the plastic ones.





The first step in the assembly of the shocks is to assemble the shock cartridges. I layed out the parts that are needed for this portion of the build in the order of assembly.



I started the assembly by lubing the rubber o-rings with an o-ring lubricant called Sil-Glyde. What this does is help eliminate the chance to cut or tear the o-rings during the assembly of the shock shaft into the cartridge. Grease can also be used in place of the o-ring assembly lubrication.



I put some of the o-ring lubrication on my finger tip and covered the o-ring thoroughly by rubbing it between your fingers.



I then installed the first lubricated o-ring into the cartridge body.



Next I installed the plastic spacer on top of the first o-ring and pressed it down until it stoped.

[Holy Roller]

Next, I lubed the second o-ring and installed it on top of the plastic spacer.



I then installed the top cap by snapping it onto the cartridge body.



Next, I installed the shock cartridge sealing o-ring onto the base of the shock cartridge.



You will now want to slide the shock shaft into the cartridge from the bottom, or left to right as the pictures indicate. If you slide the shock shaft in the opposite way, you run the risk of tearing or cutting the o-rings inside the cartridge with the M3 threads for the lower rod end. Since the shock piston is held in place with the smaller M2.5 Nylock nut the threads are less likely to touch the o-rings when you install the shock shaft. Wipe off any excess lube/grease that is on the top of the shock shaft after sliding it into the cartridge.

[Holy Roller]

The next step of the shock build up is installing the shock piston.

This is where I believe that Axial steps it up and provides you with one of the most adjustable shocks on the market. In the shock kit Axial provides you with 3 different standard pistons offering different dampening levels from Soft to Firm. Axial also provides Variable Rate Pistons in the kit. The variable rate pistons allows you to have a faster rebound/slower compression or a slower rebound/faster compression choice.

I decided to install the Soft Dampening pistons.

I have laid out the parts in the picture below, in the order the parts are assembled.



I installed one flat washer onto the shock shaft, then slide the piston on next, followed by the second flat washer. I then used needle nose pliers to hold the lower portion of the shock shaft on the flats. I then threaded the M2.5 Nylock nut onto the threaded portion at the top of the shock shaft and tightened the nut down. (DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE NUT) Tighten the nut until it just stops.



This is where the build up differs from Benders Axial build up. Because I am using JeepinDougs C-cups, the installation of the springs, spring retainer, and the rod end will be installed at a later time in the build.

I moved forward to the threaded aluminum shock body build up.

Once again I have laid out the parts to show you the order the parts for this portion of the build are put together.



The first thing I did was to install the o-ring into the threaded pre-load collar.







Next I installed the threaded pre-load collar with the o-ring installed onto the threaded aluminum shock body. Make you install the threaded pre-load collar onto the threaded aluminum shock body with the flange facing the unthread portion of the aluminum shock body.



You will want to thread the threaded pre-load collar about half way down the shock body.

Next is to install the shock bladder into the shock caps. You will need to find something soft to work the bladder into the shock cap. You do not want to damage the bladder. I followed Benders lead and used a plastic pen cap.







Now it's time to thread the cap on to the shock body. Tighten down the cap as tight as you can with your fingers. Do not use pliers or a wrench. If you do you will increase the chances of unseating the bladder which will cause the shocks to leak. I perfer bleeding the shocks when I install the shock cartridge assemby into the shock body. That is the way I learned to do it in the past, but you can bleed them through the cap if you perfer that method.

[Holy Roller]

Next I filled the shock body with oil and bleed it. You will want to make sure you let the air bubbles in the oil rise and dissipate before you bleed the shock.



I wrapped the shock body with a paper towel, so when I bleed the shock the oil that seeps out does not run down the sides of the shock body.



I filled the shock body with oil till it reaches the thread on the inside of the shock body.



You will want to pull the shock shaft till the shock piston bottoms out on the shock cartridge.



I then threaded the shock cartridge into the shock body, but only a couple turns at this time.



Now I compressed the shock shaft slowly until the bump stop bottoms out on the cartridge. The excessive oil will flow out the gaps. Once the shock shaft is bottomed out, thread the cartridge into the shock body with your fingers and tighten it up by hand. Make sure the shock shaft stays fully compressed as you thread the shock cartridge into place. At this time I remove the paper towel and wipe down the excess oil. At this point I used a wrench to tighten the shock cartridge down the rest of teh way. It is very important that you do not let the shock cycle before you get the shock cartridge tightened down, you may get air in the shock body and you will have to start the process over again.

[HomerJ]

Wow, an absolutely amazing build thread!! Axial should print this thread off and include it in each XR10 box!! . Not that they need any more detail with their instructions, but all the extra observations are great!

[Brandon]

Nice work on the shocks Becky

For those wondering we do sell the Aluminum shock caps and collars separately:
AX30110: 13mm Aluminum Preload Collar (2pcs)
AX30111: Aluminum Shock Cap (2pcs)

Link

[dubAron]

After watching this topic I've got to get me a XR-10 now!

[jamesdicken]

great step by step build.good work!

[squirrel886]

I can't wait to get my XR-10!

[69CrazyHorse]

Great build Becky. Now I got to go look at Tom's paint work. Cant wait to get mine

[Hotwheels69]

Great build so far I cant wait till I get mine in the mail

[Fordx4Ranger]

awsome build Becky. i cant wait to see it in person.

[Agama]

Great build! Now I really want one... What to do with the berg... Are you going to be running the cutting brakes when they are available?