Mark Reel's XR10 Build 11th place at nats

[mark reel]

Originally Posted by rcjunky3

your rig was working and looking awesome this past weekend good job mark

Thanks. Bud

[WAM]

Originally Posted by mark reel

NP, the one with the black nut you drill through the whole thing
then the other is just through the two cases not all the way to the top of the case

As luck would have it I just lost a final-drive bearing so happen to have the rear axle apart. Seems like a great time for your two-bolt mod. The first long bolt & nut is a gimme. The second one needs some thought. I assume you're only using a short bolt just squeezing the case shut in front of the hinge. But the "nut surface" isn't flat so the nut won't sit flush with the surface. It will hit on the inside edge. (If I read you right) Options:

1. Put RTV under the nut and live with it.
2. Grind yourself a tapered nut
3. Carve a flat spot for the nut

Edit: Finished. Went for #3. Used 3mm flatheads both sides. You wanna do this fully disassembled so you can see what you're doing and clean up the shavings etc. Drill the #2 hole from the nut-side because the nut position is more critical than the head.

[mark reel]

Originally Posted by WAM

As luck would have it I just lost a final-drive bearing so happen to have the rear axle apart. Seems like a great time for your two-bolt mod. The first long bolt & nut is a gimme. The second one needs some thought. I assume you're only using a short bolt just squeezing the case shut in front of the hinge. But the "nut surface" isn't flat so the nut won't sit flush with the surface. It will hit on the inside edge. (If I read you right) Options:

1. Put RTV under the nut and live with it.
2. Grind yourself a tapered nut
3. Carve a flat spot for the nut

Edit: Finished. Went for #3. Used 3mm flatheads both sides. You wanna do this fully disassembled so you can see what you're doing and clean up the shavings etc. Drill the #2 hole from the nut-side because the nut position is more critical than the head.

#3 is what i did just grind a little and even if its not perfectly flat the edge of the nut will bite in to the plastic locking it in place

[XJkid93]

Looks sweet, im trying to build my xr up but takes way too much time lol just gatta do one little thing at a time i guess..

[mark reel]

Originally Posted by XJkid93

Looks sweet, im trying to build my xr up but takes way too much time lol just gatta do one little thing at a time i guess..

thanks, yup just keep chippin away at it

[mark reel]

ok here is a detailed post of this mod that has allowed my stock gears to last over a year.

the second screw is a 4-40 with a losi min alum nut.
just tighten these snug do not over tighten them as the plastic will just keep giving
a long screw was used for better viewing, use a short screw that comes up just past
the gold alum locknut.

also replaced the end of the axle (pic # 13) small 5 x 8 bearing to a Bushing (as i had one bearing explode on me and then break the gears.

[rcjunky3]

great addition to an already great build thread thanks for sharing all that info and pics mark

[Frankenwheely]

Now I get it. Thanks for the info and pics.

[mark reel]

Originally Posted by Frankenwheely

Now I get it. Thanks for the info and pics.

NP

[winkscrawler]

Wow all that is needed? All I did is assemble per instructions and drive. You must examine every so often to insure no bearings have come apart. I have been driving my original axles and gears for 1.5 years now with Brood 35t motors. I just checked the other day to prepare for the a Nats qualifier and all is good. The only exception I have done after 6 months of running stock is go with VP motor plates and bearings along with replace the outer bearing with a bushing since I have had constant bearing failure there.

[mark reel]

Originally Posted by winkscrawler

Wow all that is needed? All I did is assemble per instructions and drive. You must examine every so often to insure no bearings have come apart. I have been driving my original axles and gears for 1.5 years now with Brood 35t motors. I just checked the other day to prepare for the a Nats qualifier and all is good. The only exception I have done after 6 months of running stock is go with VP motor plates and bearings along with replace the outer bearing with a bushing since I have had constant bearing failure there.

Hi Wink,
i don't know that you have to do all of that, when i built it everyone was already breaking bearings and gears alot so i just took a look at what i thought was flexing and made it stiffer and havent had any problems since.
See ya Friday

[Stormin2u]

I like the rear axle mod I'm going to have to do that next time I have the axle off.

[TSK]

Graet walk through on the "two screw mod."

and just when I was debating going to a front axle in the back... Decisions decisions

[mark reel]

Originally Posted by Stormin2u

I like the rear axle mod I'm going to have to do that next time I have the axle off.

Originally Posted by TheSCorpionKing

Graet walk through on the "two screw mod."

and just when I was debating going to a front axle in the back... Decisions decisions

thanks guys, like i have posted it hasn't been a problem for over a year really happy with it.

[RivBlueNoma]

Thanks for doing the whole write up on the 2 screw mod. I just got done doing this tonight. I originally left my 4-40 screw as long as the one pictured above but found that with a 13 tooth pinion, the top of the screw rubbed against the motor. Not sure if it was going to give me trouble setting gear mesh but I went ahead and cut it down to make sure it wouldnt cause a problem.

[WAM]

Originally Posted by mark reel

also replaced the end of the axle (pic # 13) small 5 x 8 bearing to a Bushing (as i had one bearing explode on me and then break the gears.

If understand you right, that's the only bearing that's gone bad (just a little rough and noisy) on my low mileage rig to date. I replaced it with an Avid ceramic. Are ceramics enough of an upgrade to be up to the task?

[mark reel]

Originally Posted by RivBlueNoma

Thanks for doing the whole write up on the 2 screw mod. I just got done doing this tonight. I originally left my 4-40 screw as long as the one pictured above but found that with a 13 tooth pinion, the top of the screw rubbed against the motor. Not sure if it was going to give me trouble setting gear mesh but I went ahead and cut it down to make sure it wouldnt cause a problem.

i actually cut the 4-40 screw down like you did, i just took a pic of it long
so it would show up better. for some reason it would not let me add
notes after each pic. or i would have stated that.

Originally Posted by WAM

If understand you right, that's the only bearing that's gone bad (just a little rough and noisy) on my low mileage rig to date. I replaced it with an Avid ceramic. Are ceramics enough of an upgrade to be up to the task?

Ceramics should work just fine as that is the best bearing you can get.
and alot of guys have got the ceramics and had no issues.

[4xFord]

Originally Posted by mark reel

Ceramics should work just fine as that is the best bearing you can get.
and alot of guys have got the ceramics and had no issues.

I'm not trying to undercut Mark here in any way, but I don't trust that size bearing in a 2.2 even if its made from Ti, its just too small and at the end of a long shaft that puts a lot of leverage on it. The bushing does not add any noticeable resistance what so ever and really makes a big difference.

I would also highly suggest the brass inserts as well.

[mark reel]

Originally Posted by 4xFord

I'm not trying to undercut Mark here in any way, but I don't trust that size bearing in a 2.2 even if its made from Ti, its just too small and at the end of a long shaft that puts a lot of leverage on it. The bushing does not add any noticeable resistance what so ever and really makes a big difference.

I would also highly suggest the brass inserts as well.

GOOD POINT Shelby , now that i think about it more it is a really small bearing
and i dont trust it either

[mark reel]

New and improved LOWER CG


90% of the Knuckle weight is now below the axle

and as much as it pained me to cut up the Green ano on the rear lock outs
i wanted to lighten the back a bit.

will post more when assembled