"Flatline" the rtr rebuild

[shiftauto]

I've had my rtr yeti for quite some time now and it's in need of a facelift. It's been a great rig to me and it's time to return the favor so I decided to fully tear it down to the tub, give it a thorough cleaning, and throw some new $$ into it. Luckily it has its share of upgrades that have held their own and are in great shape to be reused so I don't have to go over the top in new parts. Ill post a couple pics of what it looked like a couple months ago before it received a name, "Flatline"....

[shiftauto]

Way back
After some upgrades and quite a bit of abuse!

[shiftauto]

As you can see its pretty filthy. The wiring was never that clean but functioned fine. Time to use the knowledge I've gained from the forum and experiences to make this thing a clean looking rig.

Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk

[shiftauto]

One more of the old. This was when I was trying to get the paddles figured out.

[shiftauto]

I've always liked the bug body on the yeti so that's the direction I went.
I had a color scheme in mind pretty early so I started laying down some paint. Does anyone see the problem with the interior??

[shiftauto]

The cage was in pretty bad shape and needed something to freshen it up.

[shiftauto]

More on the cage later tho... Much to my surprise all the gears were in great shape when I opened the diffs. I replaced the front spider gears for good measure and decided to try out the 500k diff lube I've read about for quite some time. With the front in good shape I reinstalled the upgraded outputs and moved to the rear axle. Been running the stock axial locker, which was in decent shape but ready for a replacement. Incision locker goes in to the VP V2 housing to spin those beautiful CBRB titanium axle shafts. The front kept the VP VVD's I've been running with no issues other than the occasional cleaning and dry lube.

[shiftauto]

I ditched the stripped V1 antirock sway bar and upped to the V2. Hopefully this one handles the way I drive better. The rear end is stout with Ti upper links, VP trailing arms, MIP driveshaft, VP V2 housing, Incision locker, properly shimmed HD stock ratio gears, CBRB Ti shafts, all new Fast Eddy bearings and fresh marine grease.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[shiftauto]

[shiftauto]

The front end is rockin a cleaned up STRC skid, STRC shock tower/bumper mount, STRC steering rack n servo saver, HR sway bar with the stiff gold bar, traxxas turnbuckles, VP caster blocks/knuckles, and VP VVD's.

[shiftauto]

Anybody see whats not quite right about the interior yet?

[magic_yeti]

what i see is your co-driver looks different like he is holding handlebars and looking on a screen. what you hiding in front of him

nice rebuild. as i did it on mine i found lot of dirt in the diff and trans how was yours?

[shiftauto]

Your right magic. My yeti interior came packed with a bomber interior instead. The bomber interior mounts differently and is deeper than the yeti interior. Of course I made it all the way through paint before I realized it. I ordered another one and had the same thing happen but eventually got the right one. This one went into a friends SCX10ii Nukizer build and I got to work doing it over again. The trans was clean but it did get new bearings and grease about 6 months before I started the tear down. I didn't have dirt in the diff but there was some in the rear axle tubes where one of the bearings was on its way out

[shiftauto]

Here's the Nukizer it went into. We added a red led to light em up a bit through the tint.

[shiftauto]

Back to the rebuild. Here's the proper interior.

[magic_yeti]

very clean and good looking paint job. like the color combi
what did you use for masking and how did it as it has to get off?
i used as i did it definitely the wrong stuff for masking. it was a pain to get off

[shiftauto]

I used liquid mask and a spray gun. It's a great material to work with. Did 3 or 4 coats and let it dry until it's completely clear. Patience with a fresh exacto blade to cut the liquid mask for each color and peel it back. It has an almost rubbery feel to it once it dries. Just like spraying a body, darkest color first and lightest color last. I highly recommend liquid mask for any kind of detailed painting you want to do. A fresh blade is key to making clean cuts

[Vertec]

Looks great! When are the heads going on?

[shiftauto]

They're actually already on. This rebuild has been happening alongside a couple other projects so my pics are mixed between 2 phones and pics for a SCX10ii I'll be making a build thread for soon. Flatline is almost ready for its relaunch.

[shiftauto]

A teaser of the body. The blurry effect is from the liquid mask. It's kind of hard to tell but you can see how I've cut out the design and the lexan is clearer.