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Old 11-14-2006, 06:45 PM   #21
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What!? No brushless yet!?
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Old 11-14-2006, 08:59 PM   #22
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I have read of people putting some sort of brake shoe on the disk compressors. Then I want to say that they use fuel tubing instead of the springs to add tension to the brakes. From what I read, they do great this way.

Here is the thread...
http://making-trax.org/index.php?showtopic=225
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Old 11-14-2006, 10:44 PM   #23
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I have browsed that site, time to join!

Brushless? Whats that? hehehehe
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Old 11-15-2006, 09:26 AM   #24
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Default snow cat

have any of you guys had problems with snow building up on the wheels and causing the tracks to bind up? I was driving mine this weekend and I had to clean off the wheels 2 or 3 times. It was still way fun but if anyone has any ideas lets hear them. Im in the process of builing a plow for mine. I will try to post up some pics soon.
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Old 11-15-2006, 09:28 AM   #25
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When these were new, my buddy had one. He sprayed the tracks and wheels with WD-40. Snow couldn't stick anymore...
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Old 11-15-2006, 12:14 PM   #26
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Default tracks

I will try that today Im heading up to the snow line to do a little wheeling in the 1.1
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Old 11-15-2006, 05:01 PM   #27
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I had a brushless setup in mine and the thing was wicked fast. To fast that the tracks would come off and they would fly off if I did donuts. I also reinforced the inside of the cab with a thick piece of lexan, because I took a big tumble off a dirt hill and once it hit the bottom the cab caved in.

The rubber feet on the tracks really make a difference also. Gotta put those on. The tracks would bind up a lot on grass, looked like a minne lawnmower. Boy I miss it, sold it on Ebay to build me a brushless Revo.

Last edited by bluonyx; 11-15-2006 at 05:03 PM.
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Old 11-15-2006, 06:12 PM   #28
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I got a stiffy for the Unimog body on that thing. I want to make a scale build rock crawler from that body, and I never wanted to make a scale build before.
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Old 11-15-2006, 07:23 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madscrambler
have any of you guys had problems with snow building up on the wheels and causing the tracks to bind up? I was driving mine this weekend and I had to clean off the wheels 2 or 3 times. It was still way fun but if anyone has any ideas lets hear them. Im in the process of builing a plow for mine. I will try to post up some pics soon.
That's a really big problem with the Nitro Blizzard's heat coming off the motor. WD-40 works so-so. I always carry Prestone Windshield de-icer in a pump bottle. A spray or two every 15 minutes and life is golden
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Old 11-15-2006, 08:06 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by radishkid
That's a really big problem with the Nitro Blizzard's heat coming off the motor. WD-40 works so-so. I always carry Prestone Windshield de-icer in a pump bottle. A spray or two every 15 minutes and life is golden
Thats a good idea. My friend would spray the WD-40 before he hit the snow and usually the snow would slip off before it really had a chance to stick. Granted, where we lived at the time, the snow was rarely the good snowball making kind (very dry and small flakes, didn't stick well, too cold).
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Old 11-15-2006, 08:07 PM   #31
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Never knew how well these did on anything other than snow... How do they do? Are they worth anything on dry ground or off-road?
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Old 11-15-2006, 08:47 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rocjeeper
I got a stiffy for the Unimog body on that thing. I want to make a scale build rock crawler from that body, and I never wanted to make a scale build before.

Well thanks! Way to set the bar high for this build!
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Old 11-15-2006, 09:11 PM   #33
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Default snow cat pics

I went out today wheeling and tetsed out the cat it iced up pretty quick so I chipped it of the front wheels and it didnt ice up agian. I think once it gets cooled down to the temp of the snow it dosent stick as bad. i took some pics so here ya go, Im not trying to take away from youre rig john so please dont take it that way I just think these are way cool.
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Old 11-15-2006, 09:43 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madscrambler
I went out today wheeling and tetsed out the cat it iced up pretty quick so I chipped it of the front wheels and it didnt ice up agian. I think once it gets cooled down to the temp of the snow it dosent stick as bad. i took some pics so here ya go, Im not trying to take away from youre rig john so please dont take it that way I just think these are way cool.
All I got to say is... SWEET!!!
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Old 11-15-2006, 09:48 PM   #35
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You steal my thunder Mr Madscrambler!!!

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Old 11-16-2006, 08:55 AM   #36
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I've had a blizzard for a longtime but my chains always fall off so does anybody have any solutions for that and what kind of brushless set up are you using on your blizzards and what are the advantages and disadvantages for brushless on the blizzzard because I have no brushless R/C.
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Old 11-16-2006, 09:33 AM   #37
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Brushless as a general rule are more efficient, have stronger power output and maintenance are free. Their initial cost is generally higher, but if you plan your purchase well, you should end up with a motor that will transfer to other R/C's with little to no effort.

One of the big cons for car use is start up cogging. The new Novak system that uses Hals sensors instead of magnet feedback through the motor wires virtually eliminates this cogging or stalling issue. The Quark and Mamba ESC's are getting better with each software update, but some trial and error is needed to find a programming setup that works for your rig.

These are generalities and your mileage may vary.
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Old 11-16-2006, 09:50 AM   #38
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Great Idea! I bought one of those Ebay mogs just for the body but didn't know what to do with it. You don't mind if I copy ya right

Brushless for sure,
P
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Old 11-16-2006, 10:07 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trikster
Brushless as a general rule are more efficient, have stronger power output and maintenance are free. Their initial cost is generally higher, but if you plan your purchase well, you should end up with a motor that will transfer to other R/C's with little to no effort.

One of the big cons for car use is start up cogging. The new Novak system that uses Hals sensors instead of magnet feedback through the motor wires virtually eliminates this cogging or stalling issue. The Quark and Mamba ESC's are getting better with each software update, but some trial and error is needed to find a programming setup that works for your rig.

These are generalities and your mileage may vary.
I think you are in the wrong thread to promote the benefits of brushless! The guy who started this thread is a brushless demi-god!
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Old 11-16-2006, 06:00 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tigersfan05
I've had a blizzard for a longtime but my chains always fall off so does anybody have any solutions for that and what kind of brushless set up are you using on your blizzards and what are the advantages and disadvantages for brushless on the blizzzard because I have no brushless R/C.
The chain link drive system is about as old as the Kyosho company itself. There aren't too many solutions, but here are a few.

1. Take a look at your chain, if it drooping excessively, remove 1 link with a pair of needlenose pliers. The idlers on newer 2nd generation blizzards (nitro and electric) are slotted, and you can tighten them within reason.

2. Carefully tighten up the 2 loops in each link with a pair of jewler's pliers. Roll them in a clockwise fashion, don't simply crush them tighter, this will have the opposite effect and make the chain slightly longer.

3. I thought this up a while ago, but never tried it, not yet at least. Add an idler, such as 2 bearings with a washer on each side (to hold the chain). mount each idler BELOW the chain, not above. My suggestion would be that you research a mountainbike idler system such as MRP, Blackspire, or E-13. A scaled down version of this idea would more than do the trick...

ex:
http://www.mrpbike.com/product-system3.php
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