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Thread: Is this a crawler motor for the C.C. ?

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Old 02-25-2009, 08:10 AM   #1
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Exclamation Is this a crawler motor for the C.C. ?

I couldn't find any info on this motor, maybe someone can chime in

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXUHH6&P=7
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Old 02-25-2009, 08:26 AM   #2
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its listed under micro rs4 parts, 18t, and 18b on integys site, so im gonna guess its high rpm :(
good find though. looks like im not teh only one digging
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Old 02-25-2009, 08:27 AM   #3
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Yeah, that works, I used similar 1/18 scale motors. Pretty much any motor you get is too fast for the thing. I use RC4WD 380 motor size gear reduction units. They make the wheel speed just right. It lowers the wheel speed enough to put some good size 2.2 tires on it.

I also swapped the ESC for a 19t sport with reverse. I don't plan on going to LiPo anytime soon, but it would be pretty easy to.

Last edited by tom tom; 02-25-2009 at 08:30 AM.
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Old 02-25-2009, 08:28 AM   #4
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mikes sending me a set of the reductions friday to test.
what are you doing for link/shock clearance though tom tom?

doing some measureing last night, the stock motors appear to actually be 400 long can motors, not true 380 motors

Last edited by STANG KILLA SS; 02-25-2009 at 08:32 AM.
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Old 02-25-2009, 09:11 AM   #5
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Yes, whats your secret to making the extra length fit? The links are right close to the stock motor location as it is, let alone trying to make another 1 inch squeeze in there.
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Old 02-25-2009, 09:30 AM   #6
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I guess that the is modding the plastic link mount to mount the motor on top of the reduction unit, kinda what i had to do with my 454's to make them fit.
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Old 02-26-2009, 11:10 AM   #7
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any one check out the Novak Three 80's and ESC to match?
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Old 02-28-2009, 10:35 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by STANG KILLA SS View Post
mikes sending me a set of the reductions friday to test.
what are you doing for link/shock clearance though tom tom?

doing some measureing last night, the stock motors appear to actually be 400 long can motors, not true 380 motors
Quote:
Originally Posted by blackfoot View Post
Yes, whats your secret to making the extra length fit? The links are right close to the stock motor location as it is, let alone trying to make another 1 inch squeeze in there.
I am tinkering with this issue as well. I am currently putting it back together. I am going to try and move the upper links to the same location as the shocks. This might be tricky..... Might have to do some interesting bent links.....

Come to think of it I might just play around with link mounts and shock mounts for a bit. Got some extra T4 and losi shocks lying around and lots of aluminum tubing in my shop. Maybe I will have a glorious breakthrough.

Last edited by tom tom; 03-01-2009 at 12:49 AM.
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Old 03-01-2009, 07:34 AM   #9
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What about the Duratrax CC 8500 and 11k motors? Are those any better than stock?

Last edited by InFlames; 03-01-2009 at 07:34 AM. Reason: typo
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Old 03-01-2009, 08:44 AM   #10
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more wheelspeed, less low end torque, i dont know what duratrax was thinking there. could be the ticket for the gear reductions though.
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Old 03-04-2009, 04:25 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tom tom View Post
I am tinkering with this issue as well. I am currently putting it back together. I am going to try and move the upper links to the same location as the shocks. This might be tricky..... Might have to do some interesting bent links.....

Come to think of it I might just play around with link mounts and shock mounts for a bit. Got some extra T4 and losi shocks lying around and lots of aluminum tubing in my shop. Maybe I will have a glorious breakthrough.
Any progress on this? I would like to use these reduction units, but am not sure how to get around the shock mount clearance issue.
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Old 03-06-2009, 12:19 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tom tom View Post
Yeah, that works, I used similar 1/18 scale motors. Pretty much any motor you get is too fast for the thing. I use RC4WD 380 motor size gear reduction units. They make the wheel speed just right. It lowers the wheel speed enough to put some good size 2.2 tires on it.

I also swapped the ESC for a 19t sport with reverse. I don't plan on going to LiPo anytime soon, but it would be pretty easy to.
Are these the ones your using. Does it help with the clod stall?
http://rc4wdstore.com/product_info.php?products_id=931
Matt
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Old 03-07-2009, 10:41 AM   #13
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Are these the ones your using. Does it help with the clod stall?
http://rc4wdstore.com/product_info.php?products_id=931
Matt
No possible way.. No way to get that on the motor.. Theres like a whole 5 mm space available.. lol nah but really thats to big to fit on the stock motor.
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Old 03-07-2009, 11:20 AM   #14
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Default OH OH OH, might have something here

Almost done with the Rockbuggy.
Rx crapped.
LRP Micro can only handle 7cells.

Neodym 45T from Promax are way to fast, even after timing adjustments.

Found two others to try, from an unlikely source.
  1. Molon #CM0-1237. Believe it to be about 1025KV. 5pole. Not sure how many winds it has. 380 can size. I have those in now. 7cells gives the right wheel speed for a crawler, but not enough torque to do much. These will handle up to 18V! Might play with rewinding a couple with more turns of wire. http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a...C-MOTOR/1.html
  2. Mabuchi # RK370CA-18260. Could this thing really be 650KV?!?! They were out when I ordered a couple weeks ago, so I don't have any to try. Someone else game? You could run this on 12v! http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a...C-MOTOR/1.html
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Old 03-07-2009, 11:21 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrGrimxX View Post
No possible way.. No way to get that on the motor.. Theres like a whole 5 mm space available.. lol nah but really thats to big to fit on the stock motor.
Yes way, it's possibe. It's not a direct fit, you have to move the upper link and shock mounting location. I have the axle put together with the motor and redution as well as some extra badlands I have sitting around for mockup.
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Old 03-07-2009, 11:34 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sweli View Post
Almost done with the Rockbuggy.
Rx crapped.
LRP Micro can only handle 7cells.

Neodym 45T from Promax are way to fast, even after timing adjustments.

Found two others to try, from an unlikely source.
  1. Molon #CM0-1237. Believe it to be about 1025KV. 5pole. Not sure how many winds it has. 380 can size. I have those in now. 7cells gives the right wheel speed for a crawler, but not enough torque to do much. These will handle up to 18V! Might play with rewinding a couple with more turns of wire. http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a...C-MOTOR/1.html
  2. Mabuchi # RK370CA-18260. Could this thing really be 650KV?!?! They were out when I ordered a couple weeks ago, so I don't have any to try. Someone else game? You could run this on 12v! http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a...C-MOTOR/1.html
If you find a way to make that first one have more torque, let me know, id buy some modified ones off you if the price is right considering theyre only $2.50 for stock ones.

Last edited by InFlames; 03-07-2009 at 11:34 AM. Reason: typooooo
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Old 03-07-2009, 01:17 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sweli View Post
Almost done with the Rockbuggy.
Rx crapped.
LRP Micro can only handle 7cells.

Neodym 45T from Promax are way to fast, even after timing adjustments.

Found two others to try, from an unlikely source.
  1. Molon #CM0-1237. Believe it to be about 1025KV. 5pole. Not sure how many winds it has. 380 can size. I have those in now. 7cells gives the right wheel speed for a crawler, but not enough torque to do much. These will handle up to 18V! Might play with rewinding a couple with more turns of wire. http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a...C-MOTOR/1.html
  2. Mabuchi # RK370CA-18260. Could this thing really be 650KV?!?! They were out when I ordered a couple weeks ago, so I don't have any to try. Someone else game? You could run this on 12v! http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a...C-MOTOR/1.html
Need to get John H. to fill us in on this one.

I unwrapped one of the stock Duratrax 5000 motors and found it to be about 140 turns (of wire).
The Molon #CM0-1237 above, were about 60 turns.

So why, when swapped out on the same CC, same volts, same pinion, does the Molon run slower then the Duratrax?
Tried to wrap the 5 pole Molon, it was tough.
Then tried the Duratrax, I could not get it above 150 turns of wire with the gauge of wire I had.
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Old 03-07-2009, 10:06 PM   #18
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This may be a dumb question, but i was thinking, is it possible that the DTX vendetta motors might have more torque over the stock ones with the gearing the cliff climber has?
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Old 03-09-2009, 08:08 AM   #19
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Default 380/380/370 wrapping compared

Three motors torn down and unwrapped.

TOP
Duratax 3pole. 140 turn +/-30ga. I tried to wrap 170 turns of 30ga. on one pole, second pole would not hold more then 100 turns then.

MIDDLE
Molon #CM0-1237 5 pole. +/-60 turn, +/-30ga. I started to wrap it with 100 turns of 30ga. Pole wraps on a 5pole overlap, so second poles wraps started to get too full again. Might try smaller ga. wire.

BOTTOM
Promax Neodym 370 PMX-3745 3pole. 45turns of 26ga(?). I wrapped this with 140 turns of 30ga. (shown).
Has neodym magnets, bearings, and replaceable brushes.
Shorter rotor.
2mm shaft size.
Had 'OK' torque, but was too fast on 8.4v.




More to come.
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Old 03-09-2009, 08:27 AM   #20
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nice tech! keep coming!
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