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Thread: Tekin FXR and 4 cell Lipo

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Old 11-28-2010, 01:19 PM   #21
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Ya I will be running my dual fxr's on my super and as of right now I am sitting right around 10lbs. I was also planning on putting the same setup on the 2.2 xr which is sitting at around 5lbs 11oz. But I'm sure the super will put it to the test. Going to be wiring it up today.
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Old 11-28-2010, 01:24 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diamond D View Post
Ya I will be running my dual fxr's on my super and as of right now I am sitting right around 10lbs. I was also planning on putting the same setup on the 2.2 xr which is sitting at around 5lbs 11oz. But I'm sure the super will put it to the test. Going to be wiring it up today.
Let me know how it goes...

What motors are you running in each?

Mine is goin into my xr10 as well (dual fxr)...

I dont have the batt pack, yet.. just ordered one to test out. (same physical size as my 3s 1300mah pack.. and it fits very nice in the V4 Juice chassis). ( http://www.cheapbatterypacks.com/?ap...474&bc_menuid= )

wife is picking up the capacitors for me as we speak (christmass shopping next to radio shack)...

Last edited by MOTORRAD; 11-28-2010 at 01:26 PM.
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Old 11-28-2010, 01:27 PM   #23
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The super has two 45T brood motors and the xr has two 45T banzai motors at the time being although I will be switching over to the broods in the xr.
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Old 11-28-2010, 10:46 PM   #24
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Ya I will be running my dual fxr's on my super and as of right now I am sitting right around 10lbs. I was also planning on putting the same setup on the 2.2 xr which is sitting at around 5lbs 11oz. But I'm sure the super will put it to the test. Going to be wiring it up today.

If anyone is willing to open up the case on their FXR.. and take HI REZ pics of the parts in there.... so I can read the part numbers... I have a elec engeneer buddy, that builds his own esc's etc. that can tell us if she can handle it...

I just dont want to crack open my 2 week old ones and kill all warrenty
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Old 11-29-2010, 12:29 AM   #25
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I was told a while back by the electronics man on here JRH that technically if you change the caps they should handle it, tekin just said we've never tried it. I haven't tried it myself and I don't intend to at this stage, 3s is enough for me at the moment.

Kieren
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Old 11-29-2010, 12:41 AM   #26
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The Most important thing is :: as voltage goes UP amperage goes DOWN. resistance inside the circuitry stays the same. Resistance Is basically the abliity to Dissapate HEAT! Restance times Amperage equals wattage.. How many watts a motor can utilize depends on the turns or manufacture specs. long to short if you run a 80 turn on 4S probably if you run a 19 turn probably not if you run a 3s and 8 turns smoke

I have ran 6s on a 10.5T brushless in a LCC gear Down to prevent binding and stalling and watch the temps close for the first few runs.
pick a good line and jumpit.
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Old 11-29-2010, 09:11 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by D_Frawg View Post
The Most important thing is :: as voltage goes UP amperage goes DOWN. resistance inside the circuitry stays the same. Resistance Is basically the abliity to Dissapate HEAT! Restance times Amperage equals wattage.. How many watts a motor can utilize depends on the turns or manufacture specs. long to short if you run a 80 turn on 4S probably if you run a 19 turn probably not if you run a 3s and 8 turns smoke

I have ran 6s on a 10.5T brushless in a LCC gear Down to prevent binding and stalling and watch the temps close for the first few runs.
pick a good line and jumpit.
Your conclusion is probably right, your theory is severly flawed though. Since voltage x resistance= amps, if you increase voltage amperage goes up, maybe not at a creep, but when asking for power ( when stuff blows) it'll be up.

To say that resistance dissipate heat is laughable, it's what creates it.

Resistance x amperage does not equal wattage, it equals voltage. Voltage x amperage equals watts.
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Old 11-30-2010, 12:18 AM   #28
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I'm reading right off the stock capacitor and its 330 16v and the nova's ark capacitor is 25v 1000 uf. Not sure what all that means but there are the specs.
the stock ones are super low esr caps
nippon chem con ps series
ESR 14 mOhm max/20°C, 100k to 300kHz
rated ripple current 5,050 mArms/105°C, 100kHz)

makes no sence to buy more capacity with higher ESR and less ripple current
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Old 12-06-2010, 02:58 PM   #29
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Any updates Diamond????
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Old 12-29-2010, 12:24 PM   #30
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So if you are going to use the 1000uf caps that nova sells, would you need to install two of them, one for each esc like stock, or just one?
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Old 12-29-2010, 01:43 PM   #31
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So if you are going to use the 1000uf caps that nova sells, would you need to install two of them, one for each esc like stock, or just one?
To run 4s I would put one on each esc. If you are running 3s, 1 bridged between them should suffice.
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Old 12-29-2010, 05:48 PM   #32
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Any updates Diamond????
I have ran the super with these fxr's only a handful of times but I have had not problems with using the 4s on them.
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Old 02-18-2011, 03:50 PM   #33
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I have ran the super with these fxr's only a handful of times but I have had not problems with using the 4s on them.
So what caps did you end up using D?
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Old 02-18-2011, 07:04 PM   #34
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I have dual FX-R's and have only ran 4s 1250mah lipos. I have 35T motors and no smoke yet.

BJ V2 Berg.
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Old 02-18-2011, 07:20 PM   #35
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if you're going to change out the capacitors then I would avoid the radio shack caps. I have not had an issue personally with them but most there are rated to 85 deg whereas for not much more money you can get a more stout cap from somewhere else. I have always used caps from mcm electronics and had no issues yet and they have them rated to 105 deg.
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Old 02-18-2011, 07:36 PM   #36
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So what caps did you end up using D?

I'm using the capacitors from nova's ark he sells on his site.
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Old 06-21-2011, 09:49 AM   #37
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I have run my fxr pro on 4s lipo a little. I changed the cap out for the 35v 1000uf radio shack one and used hotwire to set a 4s lipo cutoff for the esc. Ran a pack (1600mah, 40c, 4s) through yesterday with 2 30t motors (on an xr10) with no problems. I did try it with a pair of 17t reedy radon motors. No damage to the esc but the motors only lasted about 45 sec before the rear one caught fire, came apart internally and locked up. Wheelspeed was wicked though! Any thoughts on the fastest motor I could run that would stay together? (for occasional FOFF side trips)
A side note: my 30t motors seem slower than the 35t's I'd been using. 35t's were cheapo HPI saturn and the 30t's are better HPI x30's. They are slower on 3s and only about as fast on 4s as the saturns are on 3s. I switched it back to the saturns on 3s for now. I like these motors fine, just wish they had a touch more drag brake. I may try some HH handwound 33t later on.
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Old 06-21-2011, 11:14 PM   #38
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Well,I'm worry about my dual fxr's running with HH 45t motor will cook it or not?
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Old 06-22-2011, 07:19 AM   #39
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I run 4s on my RS esc's with larger caps Eddie sells and it worked fine... the FXR's however seem to run ALOT hotter so im not sure if its worth 4s...
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Old 06-22-2011, 11:37 AM   #40
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Well,I'm worry about my dual fxr's running with HH 45t motor will cook it or not?
I'm sure it will shorten the life of your motors, but it won't instantly fry them and it won't hurt your fxr's at all as long as you install the right cap and use an external BEC.
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