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Old 03-16-2010, 01:02 AM   #161
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Yeah, they are not cheap either............
Looked at one and a balancer last week. @$5500 for the two (used). Not quite that hardcore yet. Just in the tinkering state now. Motor guy will be back soon enough though....


... maybe
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Old 03-16-2010, 01:07 AM   #162
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Looked at one and a balancer last week. @$5500 for the two (used). Not quite that hardcore yet. Just in the tinkering state now. Motor guy will be back soon enough though....


... maybe

He is/was online just a few minutes ago.

Yeah, I am not getting that deep into it. I am thinking about a spring dyno though...........
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Old 03-16-2010, 02:49 AM   #163
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Probably would have to be zapped, which is hard to find. Zapper or someone that has one.

I have a dyno and magnet zapper on the way
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Old 03-16-2010, 05:58 AM   #164
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I have a dyno and magnet zapper on the way
Nice!

Which dyno and zapper?
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Old 03-16-2010, 06:43 AM   #165
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I dont know if they are still building them but Team 1 use to make a Zapper, I owned the original that they copied. I bought mine from a company back in '97 that made them for slot cars.

Very heavy unit, like carrying a car battery around with ya but worth the $$ and you can recoup some of that by offering to zap other motors.

They work great for old motors and ones that have been heated, newer motors wont really be affected and its not a 1 shot deal when you zap them. The magnetic field will weaken again, how quick depends on how hard you run the motor.

We use to zap our race motors before each run to be sure the magnets were full. You can see the drop in numbers on the dyno from first pull to second pull after zapping them.
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Old 03-16-2010, 06:51 AM   #166
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Quote:
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I dont want to damage them though.
I want to take em out and cut em. then replace.
make a 2 mag can a 4 mag can.
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Originally Posted by Rockcrawler View Post
I think once you pull them, they are not much good.
How are you planning to cut them?

soak them in Acetone for a few days, they'll pop free.

alighning them back up and getting the air gap is the harder part though when epoxying them back in.
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Old 03-16-2010, 06:55 AM   #167
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getting the air gap is the harder part though
That is the hard part.
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Old 03-16-2010, 06:59 AM   #168
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I talked with Big Jim about high wind motors right before he passed. He totally blew me off because I was "obsessed" with going slow, which is opposite of everything he knew. He just didn't have enough time to try it out and see for himself. I was trying to use KV and figure out what wind would hit a particular KV, and nobody in the biz could help me out when it came to brushed motors.
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Old 03-16-2010, 07:44 AM   #169
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Havent seen this link posted yet

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=126994

dont know if its the whole book posted but some good reading.
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Old 03-16-2010, 11:26 AM   #170
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How are you planning to cut them?

soak them in Acetone for a few days, they'll pop free.

alighning them back up and getting the air gap is the harder part though when epoxying them back in.

thanks for the tip
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Old 03-16-2010, 11:35 AM   #171
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Originally Posted by Rockcrawler View Post
Nice!

Which dyno and zapper?
its a robitronics dyno and a thunder rc zapper.
keep in mind guys,everything I'm doing is on 380 motors right now.

havnt thought yet about what to cut em with.
just how to safly remove

shouldnt be to hard to cut I dont think.
but doing it clean may be a different story
I want clean edges
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Old 03-16-2010, 12:21 PM   #172
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I am almost back.....coming coming....

Zappers are actually not that hard to make.....I have 3 of them, two powered and one portable contained unit. The Team 1 unit was junk, weighed 300 lbs and rusted...

The Thunder RC one was very good, thats what we used at the shop.....still do.

The portable was nice for races, cause it fit in my hand and gave a good zap.....was just tedious to use compared to the thunder.

Balancers are not cheap either and you have limited choices.......the Heins was the most popular, but it is a nightmare to keep running good. I bought another fancy one I cannot remember the name too, same one checkpoint had......it has sat unused at $10,000 to this day cause we could never get it to work right and the customer support was bad. Quillen made a nice portable balancer.....they are very hard to find, cause he did not make many of them. I have two.....never even used them.

I'll be back soon.....maybe a month and brood will reopen.

And you can cut 380 motors on most lathes if the guides are close enough.....pretty much all the Hudy or Integy ones work. Never tried on my fantom.

Later EddieO
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Old 03-16-2010, 01:20 PM   #173
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The Team 1 unit was junk, weighed 300 lbs and rusted...

The Thunder RC one was very good, thats what we used at the shop.....still do.

Later EddieO

I had to google the pics its been so long since I looked at zappers.

Thunder RC were the ones who copied the model I had. This was thiers and a much better unit then the Team 1



Pic of the original built for slot car motors
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Old 03-16-2010, 01:52 PM   #174
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Even though we have jacked EeePees' thread
It's all good! And wow you guys were up late.
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Old 03-16-2010, 02:22 PM   #175
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Originally Posted by EddieO View Post

And you can cut 380 motors on most lathes if the guides are close enough.....pretty much all the Hudy or Integy ones work. Never tried on my fantom.

Later EddieO
at midwest a member of our club brought his huddy to see if he could cut em. he couldnt get to the comm with the bit just to tight.

I'm looking hard at the integy xipp perfect lathe2
says I can cut 180-540 size

I want to work on mostly smaller stuff right now

still looking though
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Old 03-16-2010, 02:44 PM   #176
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Quote:
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its a robitronics dyno and a thunder rc zapper.
Nice!

Quote:
Originally Posted by EddieO View Post
I am almost back.....coming coming....

Later EddieO
Nice EddieO. We have been waiting.

When you get back into the full swing of things, I have a few motors I want to get zapped.

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It's all good! And wow you guys were up late.
Night shift.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rock hard View Post
at midwest a member of our club brought his huddy to see if he could cut em. he couldnt get to the comm with the bit just to tight.
What setup does he have. Just guessing here, but you will probably need the manual hudy with V-blocks. I have the one with bearings and dont see what would stop it, although I dont have it in front of me to look at. When you setup for the motors, did he set the bit right? Its supposed to be a little above the center line of the comm.
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Old 03-16-2010, 02:49 PM   #177
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as I recall he said that if he had a bit that cut on the other side he thinks he could do it.

I dont remember what it was hitting

but there is very little shaft past the comm. so the comm was very close to where it is spinning so by time the bit gets to the area to start the cut it was going to hit a part of the lathe.
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Old 03-16-2010, 05:14 PM   #178
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I went through every brush out there back when I was racing 4wd buggy offroad. The motor I was running (Reedy quad mag 10/1) would eat brushes, and eat the comm, until I found the Trinity XXX lemans brushes. I could actually get practice in, and run the heats and main without much, if any power loss.

The Trinity XXX Lemans brushes are the best out there, very easy on the comm, and good power. All other high silver content brushes murder the comm, but not these. Apparently they have very good lubricants. They are the exception to the rule that high silver = high comm wear.

Did that sound like a paid advertisement?......

The buck a pair deal on ebay was a steal.
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Old 03-16-2010, 05:38 PM   #179
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I went through every brush out there back when I was racing 4wd buggy offroad. The motor I was running (Reedy quad mag 10/1) would eat brushes, and eat the comm, until I found the Trinity XXX lemans brushes. I could actually get practice in, and run the heats and main without much, if any power loss.

The Trinity XXX Lemans brushes are the best out there, very easy on the comm, and good power. All other high silver content brushes murder the comm, but not these. Apparently they have very good lubricants. They are the exception to the rule that high silver = high comm wear.

Did that sound like a paid advertisement?......

The buck a pair deal on ebay was a steal.
I'm gonna try them in an older motor first. Found an article on them this morning from back in the day.

I've been looking around the net for stuff from round '92 to '97 when I was into racing stuff. Made some good cheap finds. Scored a Dirtinator motor last week damn near in mint condition. Found a bunch of spec racing motor lots as well. Mail and UPS will be busy around for a few days. Probably got 20 or so packages coming. I love finding the ones that need nursed back to health, love tinkering with the lathes.
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Old 03-16-2010, 08:39 PM   #180
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Back to reading.

Done!

A few things I will say is...........

1. Big Jim seems like an asshole sometimes.

2. Who ever edited the book SUCKS!

3. Most of the things I learned in the book, was said about 10 times. Even complete paragraphs were copied.


It was some good reading though......learned quite a few things.
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