Motor stuttering/ cutting out

[Charlie-III]

Originally Posted by Armistice

I have throttle and steering trim/ throttle and steering reverse. That's about it

Then you may want to cycle the steering with no power to see total throw, then adjust where the drag link attaches to the servo arm/horn so you don't bind when the servo drives the steering.

[SMR 510RR]

You need a radio with end point adjustments, they may be small adjusters that dont look like much on your radio. Sometimes they are on the back or top of the radio.

Get a BEC and put it in!

[Armistice]

Ok, tried to break open the motor and only thing I broke was a head off one of the 2mm screws

Ok, so went for the 3mm screws. Ok, I guess they're locktighted on. Anyway, got those off and that plate wouldn't come off (on the pinion side)

Took the Castle out of my Associated T2 (Have the SCT in all 3 of my RCs just for this reason), put it in the crawler, did some doughnuts outside and it seemed to do just fine. There was one stutter, but I just had the battery laying on the back and the wires were pushing my mesh gear shroud into the spur so may have caught up the spur

I'm going to take it out for a crawl session and see how it does

I should put the crawler motor into the T2 and see if it stutters. Could be the motor. Darn... a new motor

I have no clue how to take the ESC apart, so will mess with that later if this new motor doesn't solve the problem

EDIT: Ok, did a test of the T2 and it did just fine. (Man it's faster with that new battery ) Could be the ESC... ugh

[SMR 510RR]

Im telling you its the internal BEC! Get a CC BEC and it will solve your problems.

[Armistice]

Ran for at least an hr if not more and only got 2 stutters with a new motor

SMR, I'll look into an external Castle BEC. I got room to put it, but I was just thinking about using that space for LED batteries, haha! Cool factor over performance, lol, jkjk

Would the CC BEC be fine for my application as opposed to the BEC Pro? I run NimAh and will prob never run LiPo

[SMR 510RR]

Originally Posted by Armistice

Ran for at least an hr if not more and only got 2 stutters with a new motor

SMR, I'll look into an external Castle BEC. I got room to put it, but I was just thinking about using that space for LED batteries, haha! Cool factor over performance, lol, jkjk

Would the CC BEC be fine for my application as opposed to the BEC Pro? I run NimAh and will prob never run LiPo

I just read some of their FAQ sections and one answer says, "No, never throw a Castle Creations product away! Send it in to us and for a flat rate repair fee of $6USD we’ll repair or replace it." For $6, it seems like it's worth a shot

The BEC pro is not necessary in your application, in something with multiple high amp draw servos or other accessories it may be necessary

You dont need extra batteries for LED's, just pull power from the BEC/RX. Once you set it to 6v you know what the voltage is and can add resistors accordingly.

[Armistice]

Starting to go over my head! lol

Erased the part about the repair fee. Found a chart and it'd be $80 to repair

Guess I'll swing by Hobby Town and order a CC BEC tomorrow

[Charlie-III]

Yes, get a CC 10A BEC. No need for the Pro as SMR stated.
With the S3004 servo, stock CC 10A BEC setting should be fine, although set @ 6volts would be better.....spec page..... TowerHobbies.com | S3004 Futaba S3004 Standard Ball Bearing Servo
At some point, you WILL want a better servo, 200inoz+

Did you see if you have EPA's in your TX?? You may want to get a newer radio at some point, minimum is 3 channels, 4 would be better. One advantage of a newer radio is that a lot of them can hold multiple model memories. Thus when you switch rigs, pick the correct model & all settings are already set!

[Armistice]

Whoops! That's not my servo. I broke teeth off that one and replaced it with a metal geared one. (I didn't have my truck so looked at a pic of the servo off my rally car)

It's an S3305. 124 oz-in, so closer to that 200oz-in

TowerHobbies.com | S3305 Futaba S3305 High-Torque Standard Servo w/Metal Gears

I saw some stuff off Castle's site about programming and stuff. Could I just wire it up, and run it (since someone did mention the stock setting should be fine)?

EDIT: No EPA switches

[Meatwad]

Originally Posted by Armistice

Whoops! That's not my servo. I broke teeth off that one and replaced it with a metal geared one. (I didn't have my truck so looked at a pic of the servo off my rally car)

It's an S3305. 124 oz-in, so closer to that 200oz-in

TowerHobbies.com | S3305 Futaba S3305 High-Torque Standard Servo w/Metal Gears

I saw some stuff off Castle's site about programming and stuff. Could I just wire it up, and run it (since someone did mention the stock setting should be fine)?

EDIT: No EPA switches

A radio with epa would be beneficial so as to not stress the servo and/or mechanical limits of your steering setup.

You can just plug in the cc bec but the voltage is lower than 6v. Any lhs worth anything would program it for you.

[SMR 510RR]

You will want it set at 6v, stock they come set at 5.1v.

I believe that if you order it from Holmes Hobbies he will set it for you before he ships it. Also if you get it from your LHS then ask them to set it for you.

[Charlie-III]

As mentioned, you WANT the BEC set to 6 volts. Either get your LHS to do it, find a local or order from HH and ask for it to be set to 6 volts. Voltage drop from pack to servo will hurt you, the higher the voltage to the servo, the less drop.....that's a good thing.

If you have a few CC items, get the CastleLink, then you're set.

As to no EPA's, at a minimum, cycle the steering with no power, see where the steering binds. Then, run the servo off the radio, ideally the radio does not run the servo further as this can create huge loads to the BEC (internal or external). Adjust the servo arm mounting point so you DON'T overdrive the servo.

Best bet is to get a radio with adjustable EPA's for steering.

[Armistice]

Picked up a BEC. I showed the guy the stutter. He doesn't think a BEC will solve the problem. He said that he's noticed Castle's ESC's aren't that great and break/ wear out

I should mention that it will stutter when in a full throttle straight climb as well. I don't think the servo is the problem, but I've checked the throw and it seems fine and could actually go a little more on the push side before it's inline with the steering link

I'll see if the BEC will work though

EDIT: For steering, I looked at the clearance between the link and a screw off the axle lockout. On the pull, I have 1mm clearance. On the push I have about 3-4mm clearance, so my throw isn't perfectly centered. Could be from messing with the steering trim

[Armistice]

So, I accidentally left my controller on since my last post at about 12:30. 3hrs later, I come home and see the light blinking

I REALLY hoping my problem has been due to low controller batteries as the 2 dinky lights couldn't have drained a lot of power over 3 hrs. Going to replace those tonight and hope that was the problem

While checking the steering, the wheels were twitching a little. I was indoors, so some interferance plus lot batts. Here's hoping

[Charlie-III]

Originally Posted by Armistice

So, I accidentally left my controller on since my last post at about 12:30. 3hrs later, I come home and see the light blinking

I REALLY hoping my problem has been due to low controller batteries as the 2 dinky lights couldn't have drained a lot of power over 3 hrs. Going to replace those tonight and hope that was the problem

While checking the steering, the wheels were twitching a little. I was indoors, so some interferance plus lot batts. Here's hoping

Dang, I just looked over the whole thread, not once did any of us ask about the TX batteries........DOH.......