Post your preferred Stacked ESC wiring.

[JohnRobHolmes]

I am making some ESC stacking jigs to make it easy to stack neatly at home. How would you prefer the jigs to hook up to your system?


Regular Deans mounted direct to the ESCs?
Wires such as 16g coming off the block?
Other method such as direct mount micro deans?


This system will harness the wires, make assembly easy, and possibly offer a more compact solution for power caps. Whats your preference on power input?


Thanks!

[Calderwood]

I don't stack (I solder the esc directly to the motor tabs and servo tape the other end of the esc to the can) but either way I think the mini t plugs are the best for comp rigs. Smaller and lighter than deans but more robust than micro deans.

[laalaa]

All wires should come out from one end of esc pack.
Connectors are better to be in wires, as esc's are often in tight spot hidden in car and PCB's don't get so much force when you can hold wire when unplugging batteries.
Cap's, wires etc. should be placed so that waterperoofing with shrink wrap is possible.

EC2 connectors are also good choice

[TURBOFEST]

front motor wires, battery wires and rx plugs out the front. rear motor wires out the back. Micro Deans plugs for batteries or just leave them open ended for the end user to cut to length and use whatever connector is prefered. 18 gauge wire throughout.

Any options to use a cap in the same configuration as the CCSWM's? Thats the only thing I liked about those ESC's LOL

[mammoth]

Like above have batt/front motor and rx out the front and the rear motor out the rear. Use 18ga. wire for all and leave all connector's up to end user. If your able to make a smaller package this way that would be great and save use users time and effort.

[SkaldidDog]

Front: batt in, motor out, servo out
Rear: motor out

All micro deans.

Thanks a bundle John. Great stuff. Looking forward to running them.

J

[Colgout]

I would like....

1. Front motor wires, Battery wires, Rx connection wires come out from the front;
2. Rear motor wires come out from rear;
3. 18 gauge wire for motor and battery wires, no connector;
4. Similar cap as MSW (in-line), best to use 1 bigger one for both ESC;
5. Rx wire only 2-3 inches long; Motor and battery wire long enough for most application
6. 2 wire from the battery connection (either with JST connector or bare wire) for BEC connection.
7. Not sure if this can be easily done, on the ESC, there is a little jumper to disable the built-in ESC, so the whole plug (with 3 wires) can be plugged into the RX without removing the red wire on one of them, That will make the wiring cleaner.
8. Some sort of water-repellent coating (not liquid e-tape, some transparent stuff) apply on the esc.

Hope that is not too much to ask....

[Bc Paints]

How about a single board with 2 adjustable esc's on it,
No stacking, no spaghetti wiring mess, no shrinking together, no shorting possibilities
I'd buy a few...............just saying

[JohnRobHolmes]

The "single" board would be twice as big of footprint, we are already using two boards on each ESC to reduce the largest plane. Stacking is the best way to keep it compact, and having two discrete ESCs makes it less expensive to repair/ replace if one breaks.


What we are gaining in this discussion is the popular construction needs. The "at home" jig will be the production jigs, we will offer complete dual ESC units soon. Just like I don't like painting and prefer it done for me, I'm sure most people don't like soldering nor do they have a nice heatgun. So how would you like yours set up if we did the work for you?

[Bc Paints]

Originally Posted by JohnRobHolmes

The "single" board would be twice as big of footprint, we are already using two boards on each ESC to reduce the largest plane. Stacking is the best way to keep it compact, and having two discrete ESCs makes it less expensive to repair/ replace if one breaks.


What we are gaining in this discussion is the popular construction needs. The "at home" jig will be the production jigs, we will offer complete dual ESC units soon. Just like I don't like painting and prefer it done for me, I'm sure most people don't like soldering nor do they have a nice heatgun. So how would you like yours set up if we did the work for you?

Stacked, cap to cap, jumper leads connecting batt tabs on boards, front motor leads off top esc coming across the board to cap end of esc, rear motor leads off bottom esc in stack, 16g wire, foam pads or thermal pad separating esc's, batt wires off top esc ready to solder my connector of choice

[Tossedman]

Stacked but as simple as can be yet efficient for total noobs like me. Like stoopid proof.

Cheers eh,

Todd

[bigstu]

Originally Posted by TURBOFEST

front motor wires, battery wires and rx plugs out the front. rear motor wires out the back. Micro Deans plugs for batteries or just leave them open ended for the end user to cut to length and use whatever connector is prefered. 18 gauge wire throughout.

Any options to use a cap in the same configuration as the CCSWM's? Thats the only thing I liked about those ESC's LOL

Same thing here, just change it up to 16ga wire. My motors heat up 18ga..

[ittybitty]

Coming up with a smaller cap would be the largest improvement made to the BR Minis. I've done a few sets recently...1 pair for my Berg, 1 pair for my XR, 1 pair for my Super, 1 for my 2.2S.

What I've been doing is cutting a section off of a 3.5mm female bullet connector and using that soldered between the battery connections on the board. It makes the connection rigid and eliminates the need for a foam block or anything between them to hold more heat in. The rear motor wires are attached to the lower board and run out the back. The battery leads and BEC leads are attached to the top of the board on top and depending on the wire gauge being used I can attach the front motor wires to the underside of the top board or to the top of it and run them out the front as well.

This is the last set I just did for my Berg:













This was the first set I did, which were for my XR

[bigstu]

I was thinking about milling out a Delrin spacer, to put between my sidewinder micros, and then putting a small fan like this in a tight package.

Not huge, only 5.0v, but thinking it would keep things from getting too hot.
All you would have to do is shrink wrap the assembly, trim out for the fan and the exit on the other side..