AE2 and 3s Lipo

[mewalsh100]

Can I safely run 3s Lipo with the Axial AE2 esc? I read through the forms and keep seeing that people are running a BEC? What exactly does this do and do I need to have one to run 3s with the AE2? (sorry, bit of a nube with the electronics). Any info is appreciated! Thanks!

[Solitaire]

The internal BEC of the AE-2 isn't strong enough on 3S to handle a decent servo. If an external BEC is used to power the servo, the AE-2 will work fine on 3S.

[TacoCrawler]

I hooked up 3s using my AE2
but not without an external BEC.
And using a external BEC will be necessary.

better then just using an external BEC
is to utilize the Holmes Hobbies RX by-pass "Y" harness.

Then the ESC's internal BEC supplies voltage
to the RX.
and
the external BEC supplies the required voltage
that the servo might need to operate at it's peak.

If not using the RX by-pass "Y"
then the ESC's red+ wire leading into the RX
will need be removed.
And the external BEC will supply voltage to both the RX and servo.

If using the HH's RX by-pass "Y"
then the ESC's red+ wire leading to the RX needs remain
as the ESC's internal BEC will supply the RX
and the external BEC will supply voltage directly to the servo.

The HH's RX by-pass "Y" harness is plug and play
and costs only $ 6.00 (well worth the added cost)

HH's RX by-pass "Y" harness...

RX Bypass Adapter - Wiring & Wiring Accessories - Electronics & Wiring

CC BEC...

BECs & Voltage Regulators - Electronics & Wiring

IMO... the independent voltage supply to the RX and Servo is the most efficient/reliable method.

If not using the HH RX by-pass...
then be sure the RX can handle the servo's required voltage demands.
And adjust the BEC's voltage accordingly.

Some servo's require more voltage then what should be run
thru the RX.
Generally most RX's will only handle 4.8 - 6. volts run thru.

Here's picture entailing how simple the RX by-pass installs.
granted not the AE2...
but the same RX by-pass works for either and most other ESC's.

[mewalsh100]

Thanks guys. I did some reading up on everything last night. I've always been good with mechanicals, not so much with the electrics:O @TacoCrawler - thanks for the pictures and in depth explanation. This helped a lot! Looks like with the HH Y connector it's a simple "plug and play" deal. Having said that, now that I've gone to his web site, I'm seriously considering doing a motor / esc combo from him! I've read a ton of positive reviews on his stuff here!

[shiftauto]

The heyok no brainier bec is the easiest plug and play bec you can buy. No bypass harness, no castle link to deal with, no pulling or cutting out any wires, and it's easily adjustable or he can preset it for you when you order it.

[mewalsh100]

Awesome - I will look in to the heyok as well. Thanks for all the info guys!

[TacoCrawler]

Heyok offers well constructed, reliable, quality electronics.
I like my heyok wireless winch controller alot, performs well,
is durable and has proven to be reliable.

Simple purchase/easy install... voltage is adjusted to your preference
when making purchase - no charge.
Will probably require re-shrink wrapping
if ya make your own manual adjustments.

Still, when utilizing the Castle and Homes Hobbies products combined.
Both distributor's utilize Casle compatible products.
So if running these components and making programing adjustments
it would be near a priority to own the CC USB/link as well.

So I guess what I'm sayin is...

If ya have the USB link already for CC/HH component programming
Then might as well use the link to program a CCBEC ?!


So it basically comes down to
do ya want a manual adj. BEC or do ya want a pc programmable BEC !?

The heyok NB'r is manually adjusted...
while the CCBEC is PC programed.

Regardless !!

I would double check any BEC's output voltage manually
using a voltmeter to be sure the voltage is set as was intended.