Kristmas Kamodo

[Randy Williams]

The body posts are going to be shortened. No idea why Gmade made them that way.

[RicZilla]

Originally Posted by Natedog

Looks like you over tightened the wheel screws...the are only plastic wheels. I'd go with Rc4wd or Hot Racing steel wheels beadlocks and no weight in them. CI DW foams too.

That's what I thought at first but I only use a small screw driver and stopped when i felt enough tension. And the more I look at it they are not just broken around the screw area spokes are broken and plastic is falling apart everywhere. I have contacted Gmade see what they will say about that. I have some plastic Axial rims never had any problems with those.

[RicZilla]

Originally Posted by Randy Williams

The body posts are going to be shortened. No idea why Gmade made them that way.

Maybe gives you the option to mount the body higher if you have bigger wheels. I'm still debating to drill the body and have some sort of magnet system.

[Randy Williams]

Originally Posted by RicZilla

Maybe gives you the option to mount the body higher if you have bigger wheels. I'm still debating to drill the body and have some sort of magnet system.

Yeah, they are fixed though. On Axial you lower the post along with the bodies so you never have the things sticking up. Just awkward imo.

There are tons of magnetic mounts. I was afraid that the body wouldn't stay put in a comp situation. Rub a bit on the side and get the body loose and you'll have to put your hands on the rig. Loss of points.
I realize the rare earth magnets are tough but when your pushing on that bumper that's attached to the body, leverage and the spring from the body will knock it loose.
It would be great foe a trail truck.

[RicZilla]

I decided to just use the supplied body posts and sacrifice the looks for less trouble during trails runs posted a few pics of it on the forums

[TrailDawg362]

Gmade does offer adjustable body mounts as an option part, but I haven't found a U.S. vendor that carries them. I forgot to add them to my list when I purchased the other upgrade parts from Junfac.

[Randy Williams]

Was out today with the local club. I finally got to see how this thing ran.

The over hanging front and rear bumpers are going to be a problem. I'd get hung on the approach and hen the rear scraped on an incline. Some of the guys suggested making new links and stretching the wheelbase. The wheels don't line up perfectly with the wheel wells anyhow. So I'm going to check the rules for class 1 rigs and see what can be done there.

I want to put new bumpers on and sliders for sure.

I'm still up in the air about the shocks. I used Teflon tape and green slime on assembly and they still leak.

At low speeds, while crawling this thing is so smooth. You cannot hear the thing running.

[GTSLOW]

Looks good! As for the shocks, they are terrible IMO. I have the transitions on my R1 and have come to live with them having no fluid. Someday it will get new shocks.

[Randy Williams]

Thanks. Yeah I've had my fill of them. I've been trying to get my Deadbolt finished before comps start then I plan on tearing into this one. Shocks are on the top of the list of upgrades.

[txbart]

How well do the Komodo body holes line up with the SCX10 body post locations. Is it a drop on fit (so long as the wheelbase is right)?

[Randy Williams]

The body has no holes if it's a new body. You make them with a body reamer or stepped drill.

[Natedog]

Originally Posted by Randy Williams

Was out today with the local club. I finally got to see how this thing ran.

The over hanging front and rear bumpers are going to be a problem. I'd get hung on the approach and hen the rear scraped on an incline. Some of the guys suggested making new links and stretching the wheelbase. The wheels don't line up perfectly with the wheel wells anyhow. So I'm going to check the rules for class 1 rigs and see what can be done there.

I want to put new bumpers on and sliders for sure.

I'm still up in the air about the shocks.

Looks great! I wish G-Made had set these up for frame mounted bumpers, maybe it's time to fab your own mounts? For body mounts, I'd mount it how high you want it and cut off excess body post, buy another set for spares. These trucks would really benefit from shorter shocks setup with the shaft in approximate mid travel at ride height.

[Randy Williams]

I agree about the bumpers. I've been focused on my other rigs right now but I plan on changing things up in this one soon. Ran a comp with it this past weekend and it actually did great the way it sits. Still not 100% satisfied.

[Randy Williams]

Another

[Randy Williams]

One more

[Randy Williams]

Doing a few upgrades to the Komodo. I've been neglecting this rig due to the wife getting a new 1:1 truck, had to do a bunch of repairs right off the bat.
Any way, brass axle weights, aluminum lock outs and the c hub and knuckle upgrades. Throwing on some Gmade sliders until I can get a set of ScalerFab metal sliders made.

[Randy Williams]

Ordering a servo and horn tonight. Getting ready for The RC4WD Scale Truck Challenge in Disney OK.

Lights will go on next week.

[Jeepiac]

I recently bought the Sawback 4LS which is more or less a Komodo, and to me the link geometry is a little on the strange side. Even though the articulation of the axles with the XD Aeration shocks is perfect, the suspension dose not compress at all while running at any speed more than a crawl over the rough stuff. I haven't heard this complaint about the Komodo yet, so I was wondering if it suffers from the same flaw? The angle change of the axles when compressed is all wrong imo. One other thing is the axle swing with a CMS setup. I finally ended up putting the servo back on the axle so I could get a full range of steering. I'll probably drag the 4LS to Disney with me in case some pre or post event playing happens. The thing is very capable and maybe I'm just wining like a spoiled baby If we get the chance, I'd like to compare the two when at Disney.

[TrailDawg362]

The Zero Ackerman knuckles and steering link really improve the turning radius. They recommend cvd's to go with it. I have the brass tubes up front and have yet to install the rears. The CMS kit was cheap enough so I threw that in as well. Running a small 3S lipo mounted on the slider brackets helped a lot when "getting vertical".

[Jeepiac]

Originally Posted by TrailDawg362

The Zero Ackerman knuckles and steering link really improve the turning radius. They recommend cvd's to go with it. I have the brass tubes up front and have yet to install the rears. The CMS kit was cheap enough so I threw that in as well. Running a small 3S lipo mounted on the slider brackets helped a lot when "getting vertical".

Amen on the CVD's! They are a must when trying to get full steering. Just be sure to get the correct ones. Komodo and 4LS use longer axles than the original Sawback. Lots of venders list them as for either one, but this is wrong.