Project best X frame saved thanks to cman_1500w

[NeoSlayer888]

Beat your drum, float your boat, toot your horn do what ever the hell just as long as you are showing Clods who’s boss

I would like to thank TXTFUN and cman_1500w for criticking my desing and futhering the progress of a Clod KILLER. I just hope it works half as good as I want it to. The CoG will not be as low as TXTFUN's but it will be a vast improvement over my current frame.

[cman_1500w]

No prob neo. I enjoy stuff like this alot! So far I like all the designs from Txtfun and Neo's ideas. I'm undecided as to which route I'll take. Maybe a mix of both.....not sure. One thing it'll have to be is cheap and all ghetto fab! lol! I am willing to rebuild my packs if that's what it takes to squeeze a lil more performance out of it.

Txtfun, is there anything I need to know when 'rebuilding' packs? Do the cells need to be in the same order or anything like that?

Also, is a 40watt soldering iron enough? I got this cheapy one from radio shack.

[TXTFUN]

[quote="NeoSlayer888"]I would like to thank TXTFUN and cman_1500w for criticking my desing and futhering the progress of a Clod KILLER.quote]

No worries man, always keen to help out.

With the batteries you need to scratch up the ends a bit so the solder sticks and use some decent stuff with flux in it. I'm not sure how hot a 40w iron gets but you need to heat up the batteries a bit to get it to stick to the stainless and make sure you wrap some tape around the individual cells to insulate them from each other because they are bare under the cardboard tubes. I heard you can buy some kind of tags to weld them together but I havn't looked into it otherwise a batery shop can do them for you and over here I guy told me he charges 50c per join or something which isn't too bad. It doesn't matter about the order.

[cman_1500w]

Thx Txtfun for the tips. I'll check at a local battery shop and see how much they charge to rebuild my packs. The 40w iron seems to be just enough to solder motors and connectors but I have doubts it'll be enough for a battery pack. If the shops only charge 50cents per join I'll do that otherwise I'll give em the finger and try it myself.

[NeoSlayer888]

Click the picture for better pictures. The dark gray box on top is a HPI Rubicon body to help imagine the scale. The two lines in the box represent the body’s wheelbase. I think I need a new solution for the driveshafts.

[TXTFUN]

Maybe a smaller double cardon uni at the top with the cente bearing after the joint. this would decrease the angles a bit

[MOJOJOJO]

i dont understand... why dont you want to flip the trans? thatl fix the drive train angles for you..

Ian

[NeoSlayer888]

Lower center of gravity. The batteries and motors are the heavest parts so I want them on the bottom.

[NeoSlayer888]

16.5” wheelbase and 4” of under skid clearance with LST’s. I will be running my LST’s for now because I don’t want to get some Kong’s just to find out that according the rules that people are making I can’t run them. The driveshafts should work now; the only downside is now my center skid plate is wider to accommodate the batteries. My next steps are to draw all the mounting holes then BUILD . First I will build the core frame so I can work out the best position for my shocks. Once I know where I want the shocks to be I will finalize my drawing .

Wrong pic

[badtodabone]

hey when you start building it make a new thread. It'll make it easier to get to

[NeoSlayer888]

I would start a new thread for the build up but it would be of no intrest to anyone. I don't have a digi cam so I would not be able to post pictures :(

[NeoSlayer888]

Also I forgot to mention what the verticle white lines are. The shorter one is the center point of a stock frame so you can see how far the motors sit of center. The longer line is my frames center line.

[cman_1500w]

In your last pic, how did you address the battery mounting


Here's a link to some gear reductions you can consider also.

http://www.hobby-lobby.com/drives.htm

The SPEED 500 & 600 at the top looks promising. Also, GR1716 and GR1717 (2nd from the bottom) maybe if our motors will fit em....These look shorter and might work better in this design b/c of the driveshaft clearanse issues.

This topic has been covered so you can do a search and find the discussion on it. I think Toyo used the Speed 500 or 600 in his Tator Tot ride. The gd-600 is just too hard to use in this setup I think b/c of the offset motor placement.

[NeoSlayer888]

Thoes are the reducers that I have in my drawing. They are drawn to scale based on this picture:


The batteries are now on the same plane as the tranny not below. The CoG is now lower and the driveshaft angle is less but there is a bigger skid to get cought up on. The batteries will run along the bottom outside edges of the frame. From the side it will look like --O |||| |||| |||| O--

In order it goes: rod end, cell, cell, cell, rod end. The batteries will actuall stick out farther then the bottom rod ends which are also on the outside of the frame. If you are confused say so and I will make a pic of how it will look.

[NeoSlayer888]

1:12 AM time to go to sleep

[toyofast]

I see one major flaw to your perfect frame/chassis...


The base is very wide, it'll be a rock magnet. The image that came up onto my computer screen(just above this post) is only a bit larger than scale. Having the motors and batteries on the base of the chassis is just making a very wide area to get hung up on by rocks.

Unless you plan to make this a racing chassis then it should be fine....

Just my.02

[NeoSlayer888]

I am fed up with this project. I have gone through 14+ revisions and none have met my requirements. I started this project on August 30th and finally I am giving up. Here is my last try:


A Maxx u-joint maxes at 27 degrees (I finally found my angle finder so 27 is the TRUE value.) The angle coming off the axle is 38 degrees. Once again I would like to thank everyone that has helped on the project. I might start this project up again but have no current plans to do so.

[cman_1500w]

Ok well that's no reason to give up. You've put so much thought and work into it already!


I just realized this. If you take out the reducers for the driveshafts, then the angle of the driveshafts would decrease. Try messing with that. Also if the wheelbase is longer it might help with the angle also. If it's still only a few degrees off you can rotate the axle just a tad to help with it.

Don't give up so soon

[NeoSlayer888]

Oh S*i% cman_1500w, I think you have just saved my project 8O . I never thought of tilting the axles .



The only problems I see are that my approach angle will be reduced and my top links might not be able to fully articulate. Also steering through (or is it swing? I mean how far the wheels can turn) might be reduced and it could be harder on my servos.

Also what do you mean by “take out the reducers for the driveshafts?” The reducers are the boxes between the motors and tranny. The connecting piece on the upper right driveshaft is there because the tranny is not center in the frame. But with the extended piece the driveshaft are equally spaced from the center.

[cman_1500w]

Well I know this kind of defeats the whole purpose of your design. When I said take out the reducers I meant the ones on the driveshafts by the tranny in your pic. Run your driveshafts directly to the tranny and this will decrease your driveshaft angle. Like Txtfun's design. Granted they will be longer like this. Revo shafts are VERY stout and may be able to hold up.

Also, mounting your links at ONE point on the chassis will help your driveshaft angle. Like in my truck or Dirk's ride. As the suspension compresses upward the driveshaft angle will improve and point the axle's output at the tranny more.

here's an old pic from when I was discussing this subject about the links earlier


They told me the axle's output for the pinion will point more at the tranny as the suspension compresses. This is partially the reason people choose to mount the links at one point on the chassis. That and reduced torque steer which I'd have to agree having tried it.

Hope this makes sense.

Autocad is fine and all, but if you have the tranny and axles you should make a few mock ups and test it out. You don't have to build anything just connect the driveshafts to the axles and tranny and set the tranny on a box that's right height. Just play with it. That's how I designed my crawler when I got started. I just carefully eyeballed it and went from there.