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Old 01-28-2006, 05:36 AM   #21
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lt dan, if your still looking for shocks w/ balls on both ends, integy makes a set for the t maxx. check out integy.com, they are on the third page of t maxx stuff.

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Old 01-28-2006, 10:48 AM   #22
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Thanks sods I'll check them out.
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Old 01-28-2006, 10:52 AM   #23
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So, I'm going to have to cut the **** out of this body to make it work. Do you think it will look dumb all hacked up?


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Old 01-28-2006, 11:48 PM   #24
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TOo nice to hack, what size body is that? its kind small how long?
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Old 01-29-2006, 12:20 AM   #25
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I think it would look good with the bed chopped off and some sort of flatbed or tubed rear
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Old 01-29-2006, 01:14 AM   #26
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A tube rear section and chopped front fenders would look good. Maybe put a exo on it.
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Old 01-29-2006, 09:24 PM   #27
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Well I'm not going to use the Ram body, it's not long enough. I'm going with a 1:10 lexan body like the Rock Pleazer or something. I changed the suspension back to long shocks but I side mounted them to the stock Nylint shock mounting position. I needed a little more flex than I was getting with the MLST shocks and now I have maybe too much. Here's a few pics of the new setup:





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Old 02-01-2006, 07:11 PM   #28
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After a tough 10min at the LHS I decided to go with the HPI Bronco.
I'm almost finished with the body mounts and still have minor trimming and decals left to do.

Here's a couple mock-up pics:




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Old 02-02-2006, 03:51 PM   #29
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man that bronco body looks sweet on there!
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Old 02-02-2006, 05:51 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Del Monte
man that bronco body looks sweet on there!
Thanks Del Monte!


Btw, I'm not leaving those body posts long like in the pics. I forgot to cut them down before the pics were taken.
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Old 02-04-2006, 07:59 AM   #31
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love the faberware idea,looks like it would be a lot easier to fab with than aluminum. won't stick on the rocks as much either. i wish i could find a sheet big enough to use as a skid plate on my 1:1. any ideas?

youre rig looks great, very clean fab work. i've watched a couple of your other threads and buildups and got some ideas from you. keep up the great work and lets
see some pics of your bronco gettin dirty.
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Old 02-09-2006, 04:03 PM   #32
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Here's some new mods and updated pics. Now I just need a far better servo and warmer weather.


New and improved servo mount:


Braced the chassis with aluminum:



New body and posts:



Front Pede shocks w/Losi MLST springs:





















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Old 02-09-2006, 05:08 PM   #33
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That truck body is sweet!!

I have the s3003 servo also and it just doesnt cut it!

Keep up the good work!
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Old 02-09-2006, 05:32 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xjbmx
That truck body is sweet!!

I have the s3003 servo also and it just doesnt cut it!

Keep up the good work!
I will take that servo off of your hands!
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Old 02-09-2006, 05:36 PM   #35
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What battery pack are you running, and what kind of run times are you getting out of it?
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Old 02-09-2006, 06:07 PM   #36
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i have the same servo; it sucks for 2.2s Got a bigger one coming to replace it.
Why is the tread on your Moabs different than mine?? (pic)
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Old 02-09-2006, 07:40 PM   #37
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Quote:
What battery pack are you running, and what kind of run times are you getting out of it?
The battery pack I'm using is a GP1100 6cell stick pack lots of power and 1/2hour+ run time. I'm going to try the same cells but in a 7cell.


Quote:
Originally Posted by low_range
i have the same servo; it sucks for 2.2s Got a bigger one coming to replace it.
Why is the tread on your Moabs different than mine?? (pic)

I guess Proline messed up or something, yours are probably the normal ones.
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Old 02-10-2006, 07:45 PM   #38
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i am thinking of running 7 cells in my tuber so if you try it first let me know what you think.
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Old 02-11-2006, 06:37 PM   #39
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I got a Traxxas 2055 high torque servo today from the lhs for $24. I beat the crap out of it and it's a huge improvement compared to the Futaba.:-P
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Old 02-26-2006, 06:21 AM   #40
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Sorry, I deleted alot of pics that went with this thread, but I fixed them this morning.
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