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Old 08-02-2007, 01:37 PM   #21
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Well, I'm going to wait to order the parts until this gets all cleared up. Hopefully some more people will post on this topic and will give good reasonings on this. I will also talk to my uncle (mechanic) and show him my theories and such and see what he says.

Well, it's a total of 13 gears, and at $3.69 on Towerhobbies...
It's going to be $47.97 With out shipping/tax
I may add another 2 gears to connect to the motor(like the green shaft going to the red shaft), or just connect it to the "red shaft"

Last edited by Charger; 08-02-2007 at 01:58 PM.
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Old 08-02-2007, 01:45 PM   #22
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In a manual tranny the gears are constant mesh. No going into and out of mesh. On the other hand its the drive dogs that connect the shaft to the gear that you hear grinding when you miss your shift. No need for helical cut gears. I think the main benifit of helical cut gears is strength and quietness.
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Old 08-02-2007, 01:45 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Krawlin View Post
Back when cars first started coming out, they had straight cut gears. And the transmissions would grind alot. Thats where the term "gear grinder" came from. Now days, gears are not striaght cut. I beielve they are helical cut, like on real car differentials. there may be another term but anyway. They dont cut them straight anymore. They have them cut diagonally. This is so the gears can engage with each other without grinding.

The helectical cut gears in modern trannys DONOT mesh and unmesh.

Syncro's keep gears from grinding.

Helictical gear are just quieter running and last longer. only difference.

The gear surfaces themselves Stay meshed even when the tranny is in neutral. They DONOT move.

Its the syncro's that enguage a gear to the shaft.

I would like to know how you plan on building this connection between the shaft and gear so that it will lock and unlock.

You say you have been reading up on the manual 5 speed.

Are your plans to scale down the syncro's, or do you have an alternative method of enguagement? (no syncro's)

Direct Gear teeth enguagement will not last long.

Good luck with your project! I will try to help anyway I can!

Also, you might get a few Ideas from a dirtbike tranny.
Some don't have syncros.

Last edited by WheelChair; 08-02-2007 at 01:49 PM.
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Old 08-02-2007, 01:51 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by WheelChair View Post
The helectical cut gears in modern trannys DONOT mesh and unmesh.

The gear surfaces themselves Stay meshed even when the tranny is in neutral. They DONOT move.

Its the syncro's that enguage a gear to the shaft.
Darnit! I thought I got it right that time. I must be thinking of some other type of tranny or gearbox design. with the syncro's, I thought it was the other way around.... I was wrong. But I still think he is going to have trouble with the syncro's then.... With it being that small... its gonna be hard...
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Old 08-02-2007, 01:53 PM   #25
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With it being that small... its gonna be hard...

It was not a problem for those guys that built the 1/4 scale V8's...
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Old 08-02-2007, 02:03 PM   #26
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It was not a problem for those guys that built the 1/4 scale V8's...
LOL! I forgot about those. But I didnt think that had an actual "working" tranny. I thought it was just for looks. Hmm. Learned something new today!
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Old 08-02-2007, 02:06 PM   #27
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Thank you much Wheelchair. I was not sure on how Syncros work... I'm gona go read/look some more and see what I can find. If I can't find a way to make them work, I can use rubber that will engage the gear instead.... in fact that might just work better. Well.. probably not, it might slip too much.
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Old 08-02-2007, 02:07 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by Krawlin View Post
LOL! I forgot about those. But I didnt think that had an actual "working" tranny. I thought it was just for looks. Hmm. Learned something new today!


Well I donno I didn't see anything other then a box on the back of the motor but I was talking about the Actual parts for the engine.

As in If they can make little valves and oil pumps and bearings for these motors....

A syncro for a small tranny should be no beef......

IF you got the money.
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Old 08-02-2007, 02:09 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by Charger View Post
Thank you much Wheelchair. I was not sure on how Syncros work... I'm gona go read/look some more and see what I can find. If I can't find a way to make them work, I can use rubber that will engage the gear instead.... in fact that might just work better. Well.. probably not, it might slip too much.

If you make it spring loaded then it should be fine...

It would be a good way to add a slipper to the mix!
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Old 08-02-2007, 02:11 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by WheelChair View Post
Well I donno I didn't see anything other then a box on the back of the motor but I was talking about the Actual parts for the engine.

As in If they can make little valves and oil pumps and bearings for these motors....

A syncro for a small tranny should be no beef......

IF you got the money.
OH! Thats what you meant. Now that I think about it, your right. If you have the cash, I'm sure you could have someone make molds or CNC some for you. That would be so NEAT!!!
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Old 08-02-2007, 02:12 PM   #31
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you should make it 1/6 then stick in a 5 speed transmission and a conley engine it would be absolutely excellent and real scale!
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Old 08-02-2007, 02:17 PM   #32
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If you really do it good and right, you could get a patent, and then sell the idea to Tamiya!
No he can't. Go play with your motor/alt. thingy.
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Old 08-02-2007, 02:17 PM   #33
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some of these gears might be of help. http://www.servocity.com/html/gears___sprockets.html
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Old 08-02-2007, 02:20 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by theshimonator View Post
you should make it 1/6 then stick in a 5 speed transmission and a conley engine it would be absolutely excellent and real scale!
Conley's are 1:4 scale.
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Old 08-02-2007, 02:22 PM   #35
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you should make it 1/6 then stick in a 5 speed transmission and a conley engine it would be absolutely excellent and real scale!
By 1/6, how long do you mean the vehicle would be? Like 22'' to 25'' long? Because I was watching a video on YouTube where this dude put a Conley V8 in a 1/6 scale truck about 25'' long, and it really stuggled to power it. He then proceded to add a super charger to the Conley, and that engine would really make the truck haul ***!! So from my observation, I think I would throw a super charger on if I used a Conley. But what would be even better with that Conley is make a 1/8 Formula 1 car with a Conley V10. Run it on Methanol, have it pulling 20,000 RPM's.... Oh I would be in RC Heaven if I had one like that! Oh and it would have to have a 7 speed tranny. Ooohh. That would be to die for!
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Old 08-02-2007, 02:24 PM   #36
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If you can get your hands on a Tamiya 3spd transmission (big rig or Hilift). It shifts 3 gears without a synchro by simply jamming a fork into the gear you want, kinda like a stick in a bike wheel. It spins freely until something is jammed into the spokes. Yes it is not made for a rig moving 30 MPH and will "grind" but the one I used in my tow rig shifted very well on the fly once the shifter was adjusted properly
The Tamiya transmission is a bulky thing but it could be smaller with some custom parts.
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Old 08-02-2007, 02:26 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WheelChair View Post
If you make it spring loaded then it should be fine...

It would be a good way to add a slipper to the mix!
Could you elaborate on what you mean by Spring loaded?
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Old 08-02-2007, 02:31 PM   #38
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No he can't. Go play with your motor/alt. thingy.
I think I will. People like John Holmes already helped me in that thread. Thank you very much.

And havent you ever heard of this thing called a joke? Another meaning for it is this thing called sarcasm...
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Old 08-02-2007, 02:38 PM   #39
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Could you elaborate on what you mean by Spring loaded?


I don't know what experience you have with things, so I am going to try and explain it all simply.

If you were to take apart a TQ3 radio, the third channel switch has a spring and a ball. `This gives the switch positive enguagement to either side.

Meaning when the switch is one way, the spring holds it in position.

Same thing with the light switch on your wall for the house.

There is a rocker, a spring and a ball.

I would suggest to go and buy a 110v light switch, and take it apart.

It will show you better then I can explain.

Basicly it locks into position with spring pressure.

Relying on a servo to put enough pressure to hold the gear enguaged is going to:

1.) Eat batteries

2.) Not hold well

3.) Burn up servo's
(At Least in a rubber syncro setup)

The switch is only an example, sorry, I don't know the term for this action.

But it would give you an idea of what I am saying.

Last edited by WheelChair; 08-02-2007 at 02:42 PM.
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Old 08-02-2007, 02:41 PM   #40
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So what maybe you ought to look into for shifting, is have it shift like a motorcycle. Or a toggle switch, forward is upshift, backward is downshift/reverse.
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