over heating problem

[jpmurphy]

I got new stock Trail trekker motor(I didn't break it in, because I don't know how) with a 56t spur with the smallest stock pinion and an alumn. casing and skid plate, I hooked it all up and then everything overheats!
It's really loud, and HOT
I did the pinion mesh right(I think) I did the paper thing but I cant get it
i'm not sure if the micros really need the all that much setting?

If you could give me some help that would be awesome!

[DANALLY]

It could be anything from gear mesh, bad motor, binding in the trany, or binding in the drive train. Remove the motor and spin the trany by hand with the drive lines still hooked up to the axles...it should spin easy by hand. Remember that you can't turn the wheels by hand due to the worm gears in the axle so make sure to just spin it by the drive lines or the spur gear on the trany.

If it is smooth then you might have a bad motor, bad gear mesh, or are running it too hard.

Also you said it is loud??? The only time I ever had a loud one was due to the gear mesh on the motor. It just takes experience to get it right. The paper trick works but is still not easy to get right.

[smuggl1n]

Wheel nuts could also be to tight! I would check that first!!!

[MAXXMASHER]

Also make sure the nut that secures the spur gear isn't too tight. It will bind up your tranny if it's too tight, as well.

FLM BL E-MAXX ~ BL E-4TEC Drifter ~ Pro-Trac Slash ~ SCX-10 ~ Wraith ~Custom 6WD Crawler~ 3 Losi micro scalers

[Rockfrog]

With the micros I set ger mesh by ear, takes a little practice, but a proper mesh will just sound right.

Trans binding has always been an issue ... Was there eber a factory fix? Last I was around the only real fix was an aftermarket aluminum 'case. The binding is pretty obvious with a cyclic clicking while driving.

sent from my incredibly annoying smartass phone.

[jpmurphy]

I heard of the stock casing cause ing a binding issue so I went ahead and put the alumn. on in, also I think it might be my wheel nuts or my spur nut, I replaced the stock crappy plastic nut on the spur and put a locking 2mm metal nut and I also have the large alumn. wheel "plates" they were part of the weight/widner set but I didn't like all the hang ups on the knuckle screws so now I just use the "plates" as wheel nuts thanks for the help, i'll let you guys know what I find out

[89redranger]

Be sure to check drive shafts. On more than one occasion members have found that their drive shafts bind when accidentally slid together 90* off from each other. Make sure that the ears of the shafts line up dead on when sliding them together. They will slide together 90* off, but bind terribly. Simple mistake, so easily overlooked...

[jpmurphy]

when you say "ears: do mean the male/female line ups that hold the shaft so they spin together or where the "u-joint" ears? if it's the male/female portion than im good, they slide and move great, if you mean the u-joint portion than I am at different angles, the axle side is vertical and the trans side is horizontal

[jpmurphy]

ok, I tried loosing the wheel and slipper nuts and messing with gear mesh, it's not as loud but it get way hot, so hot I can't touch the alumn skidplate. I might know whats wrong though, when replaced my trans case with the alumn one, i put the inner slipper plate in on the spur so it "snaps" into the spur, is that backwards? and i also glued my plates and spur together. would any of this be the problem?

[Rockfrog]

not likely, all of mine are the same ... the McRC is a known hot head, check that the slipper inside plate isn't rubbing on the case. check the wheel nuts as mentioned as well. Might be worth the time to check inside the diffs as well, if you've got something binding there it'll make thing get hotter as well.

[DANALLY]

To narrow it down, take the drive lines off and run it for a few. If it still is baking then its probably not the axles.

Same thing for the trany. Take the slipper and gear off and just let the motor spin on its own. If it is hot with no load then your motor is bad.