Jeepin's SCX24

[JeepinOR]

I recently acquired a Hobby Plus CR-24, ordered right before the release of the SCX24, of course. The CR-24 is a cute little thing, but having also recently acquired an Axial SCX10II CRC Wrangler that got me back into RC, I was interested to see Axial's take on the micro. And so inspired by recent threads, I thought I'd also share my fun with Axial's SCX24, as it comes along. I'm sure it won't be far from a synthesis of the mods others will have done first and shared, so kudos, certainly!

The first significant improvement made was the addition of the Mil Stone brass hex extensions. I first saw mention of that tip from Spoo76, and was reiterated again by Spoo, here: Mil stone Brass hex extensions . The added weight and widened stance make a nice difference in performance: noticeably less tippy and the tires stay planted a little more.

The second impressive improvement was the installation of HumboldEF's (3-D printed) forward battery mount tray. His thread is here: SCX24 3D printed Front battery mount . This moves the battery forward and lower and moves the ESC rear and low. I also printed Humboldt's replacement body hinge, which lowers the body a few millimeters. After removing the battery tray, I cut a support brace from a part of an Axial parts tree, using part of the identifying label as a tab for the ESC to rest upon (kind of moot because the ESC fits so snugly between the rails, but what the heck, a little added insurance). I zip tied the ESC in place as low as I could, providing for link and driveshaft clearance. Many thanks to HumboldtEF for sharing his battery tray design, free!

The combination of the brass wideners and lowered center of gravity made me smile like a little school boy - wonderfully less tippy. It's pulling lines it couldn't get close to before the two changes; I'm going to have to complicate the rock pile, again (sorry, not sorry, CR-24).

I also removed the light bar and used another piece of an Axial parts tree for a cross member. Above the driver's head, two small holes were drilled in the roll cage for the body pins - there were two little divots in the plastic just waiting for a drill bit.

OK...we'll see how Tapatalk does with the pictures. Out here in the sticks, my internet is on my phone, only, and I'm behind the times on the best/easiest way to post and resize pictures via Android.


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Edited to add: just realized I need some action shots!

[spoo76]

Awesome start. I've wondered if the tires hit the tray at full steering lock.
The printer I have access to isn't working right now so I cut down the stock tray to mount sideways. Unfortunately the tires do contact the tray. I suppose I could mount it further away from the chassis to clear the tires, but I just mounted the battery on the electronics tray for now.

For the electronics a clean and secure way to mount them is to pop open the case by pushing in these tabs on either side with a small flathead.
Then remove the cover and electronics. Place the bottom part of the case as far back and as low as possible with the suspension fully compressed so you know it won't rub. Once it's placed perfectly rather than a drill bit that would move the case I just use a heated up paperclip to make pilot holes right through the chassis existing mount holes.
I then screwed the battery tray screws directly into the ESC case. I didn't screw them in all the way, I just went until I saw the tips poke through the case but it doesn't look like the screws will contact any Electronics even if you screw in all the way.
I then replaced the electronics and cover to the case and used a regular servo extension cable to give the LEDs power again.

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[HumboldtEF]

Nice! I'm happy to see these mounts getting tested out

Originally Posted by spoo76

I've wondered if the tires hit the tray at full steering lock.

The stock tires and MT/R's both just barely graze the mount at full lock and full compression, not enough to actually snag on, they still roll freely. If you're running the Scramblers (or any tire bigger than 2") I think its gonna rub enough to make it an issue, though you could assemble the front tray without using the side "wings" for more clearance. The wings are there just to keep the battery from sliding out the sides and a battery may stay put without them if its strapped in tight or velcro-ed in.

[spoo76]

That's definitely an acceptable amount. It looks like tilting it away from the chassis helped. I wanted to do that with the stock tray I cut up, but may as well print yours when I can get to a printer. For now the electronics tray is still an improvement.

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[JeepinOR]

With the Mil Stones mounted, the stock tires rub the body before they'd just barely touch the wings, as Humbdt shows above.

That's a clean, secure way to mount the electronics, Spoo. Nicy done.

[gmackSCX24]

Jeepin**+ thanks for the idea for the holes in top of the roll cage! Genius! Here’s my SCX24! I’ve got some hacks And tricks for everyone after so many trips to the hobby shop and making things work.


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[gmackSCX24]

I found, for hub bearing hex pins for Axial SCX24. Since Axial don’t offer them unless you purchase an entire axle that are back ordered “btw”

These..you have to either find something to cut them or use a bench grinder like I did because I lost one. They are crazy hard metal. That’s why I couldn’t cut them. But I’m sure if you put some time into figuring out how they could be cut to make two pins for every one. So it would turn into a total of 8 hex pins for one pack. Instead of buying a entire axle because for some reason they aren’t offered from axial.


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[gmackSCX24]

Then, I put a FF050 size motor In it from the crap 88turn horizon one. These also came as a two pack for $20. The are epic so far. So if anyone out there is trying to find the Barrage motor for the “upgrade” These are the same size. They are brushed. Gave it WAY MORE WHEEL SPEED they are from a helicopter Blade tail rotor motor. So they are found in the aviation. Dept. at your local hobby shop or, order online. ..



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[NikeBelli]

CR-24 is super cool!

[ride1226]

Did that Dromida motor mount right up? I'm gathering all the electronics to replace each part as it dies haha. Thank you!

[gmackSCX24]

Originally Posted by ride1226

Did that Dromida motor mount right up? I'm gathering all the electronics to replace each part as it dies haha. Thank you!

Yeah, all except you have to take the bellhousing and line it up to the Dromida motor and drill two opposing holes into the motor. But after that yeah it bolts right up. I trimmed my battery tray because it hits the the new motor because it’s much longer.


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[ride1226]

Nice! I'll keep an eye out for a pack of those. All that wheel speed makes me wonder if it's a lower turn motor? How's the torque still and low speed control

[gmackSCX24]

Originally Posted by ride1226

Nice! I'll keep an eye out for a pack of those. All that wheel speed makes me wonder if it's a lower turn motor? How's the torque still and low speed control

I’ll send a video if it uploads videos, not sure new here, but it’s much better than before, especially if you use contact cleaner while breaking the motor in. Very smooth.


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