VN1MVL Scx24 Build

[VN1MVL-24]

Well, decided to start a build. I like micros a lot for some reason. Decided to pick up an scx24.

Drove it for maybe 10 minutes and immediately started tearing it apart and cutting it up lol.

Bought a 24th scale k15 model to use, but decided it was too small. So I then went out and bought a 20th scale yota. Heres a few pictures of what I've done so far.

I've done a bad job of taking pictures up to this point but I'll try to be as detailed as possible from this point forward lol.

I've removed and cut some things up on the chassis.

As far as the body goes, I'm shortening the height of everything underneath, so that I can tuck the frame up to the body as close as possible. I'd like to to look scale, and not like it has a 10" body lift.

I'm currently working on what to do for the rear of the frame. I think I'm going to have the shock towers come through the bed like a crawler. I'd like to make some brass or copper tubular shock towers.

I have some chrome rc4wd steelies, and Milestar Patagonias on the way.

Funny, I just ordered new tires for my real truck, and I ordered Milestar Patagonias for it . I was pleasantly surprised when I saw rc4wd had made tiny scale versions lol.

Anyway, I'll keep updating as I go.

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[VN1MVL-24]

Well, clearanced the bed for the shock towers. Cut the body post mounts off, as it doesnt even use it with the stock body and I clearly dont need them.

Flipped the rear chassis piece with the hinge, to retain it for if I ever decide to put the stock body back on.

Body sits on the frame now, looks soooooo good. More scale looking in my opinion.

I made the openings in the bed fairly large, to leave room for upgrades, to either charisma, or 1/16 old man emu shocks. Not sure how I'm going to mount the body yet though.

I will have to open the wheel wells considerably to accommodate wheels and tires, but I think I'll wait to do that until my rc4wd wheels and tires show up.

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[bolo79]

Welcome to the miro world.Just word of warning"it is addictive"hahaha.1/20 in my opinion is way better mach for tires then 1/24 what you already know.Tires you ordered are 2"+, with body siting that low you probably need to cut fenders a little to have full articulation but you gonna figure that out pretty soon.Have a great journey!

[VN1MVL-24]

Originally Posted by bolo79

Welcome to the miro world.Just word of warning"it is addictive"hahaha.1/20 in my opinion is way better mach for tires then 1/24 what you already know.Tires you ordered are 2"+, with body siting that low you probably need to cut fenders a little to have full articulation but you gonna figure that out pretty soon.Have a great journey!

Thanks! Haha yeah I've been addicted to rc for a while now, just never got into doing scale builds until now.

Yeah, I'll have to trim the fenders up, but even so, I think with ot sitting on the frame rails it looks way better.

I know that the tires I ordered are shorter and wider than the stock tires so it should clear a bit better. But they'll be here next week and I'll be posting an update for sure.

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[VN1MVL-24]

Got the bed mounted. Flipped the hinge piece back upright and chopped the hinges off. Drilled some holes and 2 M2x6 screws later and bada-bing.

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[VN1MVL-24]

Got the bed mounted to the cab and everything lines up perfectly. Super stoked. Threw the hood and grill on for a quick look. Gonna run the stock axial bumper for now until I get into doing tubular stuff.

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[VN1MVL-24]

I think I'm done for the night, but heres a teaser.

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[VN1MVL-24]

Well, wasn't done for the night lol.

Flipped the motor and trans, swapped the pins in the plug.

Cut out the interior portion of the stock body and fit it into the model shell. Not bad looking.

Since I decided to have the body against the frame like a real truck, there is virtually no room underneath for electronics. So, I decided to go the fake interior route. A little less scale, but I think the way the truck looks with body on frame will even out the scale points lol.

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[VN1MVL-24]

Well, hours of trial and error, and here I am. I don't even know how to explain the majority of what I did here lol. It should be self explanatory but if anyone has any questions, pm me or just ask on here.

Summary:

Mounted electronics, cut up more of the scx24 esc tray. Used factory velcro strap to mount battery. Esc is held in with a tiny strip of electrical tape and pressure from the battery. Balance lead goes under the hood for charging.

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[VN1MVL-24]

It's no longer a stock body truck lol. Decided to cut the fenders, seeing as I've already got shocks sticking through the bed lol. Might as well make it a full on crawler.

Just have to paint and finish up the body and it's pretty much done other than aftermarket parts.

It isn't perfect, but I'll try to get it as close as possible. Just have to work on symmetry and the finish of the cuts.

All I did was score the body with an exacto knife, the break it off with needle nose pliers. Then I used a rat tail file to file it down.

It does have a little bit of a squat to it in the rear. But the shocks I plan on using to upgrade are a little longer than stock so I should be able to level it out.

Debating on whether or not to make inner fender linings. Or how to even do that.

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[Brake Weight]

I like it. I was wondering if you’d go that route. I once used a cut off posthole digger handle wrapped in coarse sand paper to make perfectly matched fender wells on a hard body. Worth a shot to even them out and smooth the break lines.

[VN1MVL-24]

Originally Posted by Brake Weight

I like it. I was wondering if you’d go that route. I once used a cut off posthole digger handle wrapped in coarse sand paper to make perfectly matched fender wells on a hard body. Worth a shot to even them out and smooth the break lines.

That actually sounds like a good idea. Easy way to get them uniform!

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[bolo79]

Originally Posted by VN1MVL-24

Well, wasn't done for the night

Hahaha.Go to bed!People in your house going to think you're on drugs.Try to explain to them is a micro scale hahaha.Rig looks great so far.

[odomandr]

Nicley done. That looks better I may snag another today and try again.

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[VN1MVL-24]

Originally Posted by bolo79

Hahaha.Go to bed!People in your house going to think you're on drugs.Try to explain to them is a micro scale hahaha.Rig looks great so far.

Haha I'm a night person, they're used to it by now.

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[VN1MVL-24]

Originally Posted by odomandr

Nicley done. That looks better I may snag another today and try again.

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Thank you. I have a lot of plans for it, we'll see how it goes lol.

Go for it, they're definitely fun little trucks.

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[VN1MVL-24]

Paint!

First time spray painting metallic paint so it's a learning curve. Its pooling up because I was too close. Good thing I started on the sides you dont see lol. Also first time painting with a brush.

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[VN1MVL-24]

2nd coat so far. I suck at spray painting lol.

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[VN1MVL-24]

Lost count of the coats lol.

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[VN1MVL-24]

I made a separate thread about this, but since this is my build thread, I'd like to add it just for documentation sake.

"Found my old box of parts from a few exc barrage minis I had 2 years ago.

Just so happens that the shock bodies and pistons are the same threads as the axial scx24.

Instructions:

Take the ends off the stock scx24 shocks.

Remove the spring and little spacer on shick body.

Take the ends off the ecx barrage shock.

Remove spring.

Put top end from scx shock onto ecx shock body.

Cut ecx spring to your preferred size. (This has to happen if you chose to run the stock spring from the scx as it's too short. The shorter you cut the ecx spring, the more droop you'll have.)

Install cut ecx spring with cut end toward the top of the shock.

Install spacer from scx shock with the flat part against the ecx spring.

Install scx spring.

Install scx end.

Profit.

Of course you can substitute the springs for whatever you'd like.

I will mention that the ecx shock bodies and pistons are less smooth than the scx. But for me it will work. You could probably add some grease to smoothen it."

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