SCX24 Upgrade Parts and my epiphany

[NkedFatWhiteGuy]

I have been struggling trying to get a wobble out of my front end and I think I have been making things worse as I am trying to make it better! I wanted to check and see what others are doing/thinking:

I have the Emax ES08MAII installed on a Hot Racing servo mount. I also have the Hot Racing steering linkage. I love these components and they are awesome upgrades!

With the weird wobble I have been seeing, I decided to replace the drive axles and went with the Hot Racing +4 mm and added the axle weights. Again, this is all great stuff that I really like!

What I just noticed though is that since there is now a situation where the knuckles are spaced further out, additional stress is being put on the normal length steering linkage (my epiphany!!!!) yeah, I’m a little slow on the uptake....).

So, I am wondering what you all are doing. Anybody else in this situation? What am I missing? Thoughts?





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[23drumerboy]

Originally Posted by NkedFatWhiteGuy

I have been struggling trying to get a wobble out of my front end and I think I have been making things worse as I am trying to make it better! I wanted to check and see what others are doing/thinking:

I have the Emax ES08MAII installed on a Hot Racing servo mount. I also have the Hot Racing steering linkage. I love these components and they are awesome upgrades!

With the weird wobble I have been seeing, I decided to replace the drive axles and went with the Hot Racing +4 mm and added the axle weights. Again, this is all great stuff that I really like!

What I just noticed though is that since there is now a situation where the knuckles are spaced further out, additional stress is being put on the normal length steering linkage (my epiphany!!!!) yeah, I’m a little slow on the uptake....).

So, I am wondering what you all are doing. Anybody else in this situation? What am I missing? Thoughts?





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I , also, noticed the newish "toe-in" condition caused by my HR aluminum steering links!! Half of me is curious to try another brand and see if the tolerances are any better/worse??

The other half says well you can trim it out and get it to drive straight so roll with it lol

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[NkedFatWhiteGuy]

Man, my Deadbolt is a mess with all my mods! I might have to pull it back down to stock and see if I can add things back slowly to try and figure out where the problem really is

Is this gap normal for folks or is it a symptom of my mess too?



I have gaps on front and rear, right and left sides, but they vary in the gap. Stock axle housing and stock covers. Only thing different is the HR Emax Servo Mount.


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[NkedFatWhiteGuy]

Originally Posted by 23drumerboy

I , also, noticed the newish "toe-in" condition caused by my HR aluminum steering links!! Half of me is curious to try another brand and see if the tolerances are any better/worse??

The other half says well you can trim it out and get it to drive straight so roll with it lol

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[mention]23drummerboy [/mention] I was thinking it was a special mess on just my Deadbolt, but after reading you are seeing it too, I double checked my wife’s C10 and sure enough, same thing! Hers is not quite as bad, but definitely a little “toed up” for sure...


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[23drumerboy]

Originally Posted by NkedFatWhiteGuy

Man, my Deadbolt is a mess with all my mods! I might have to pull it back down to stock and see if I can add things back slowly to try and figure out where the problem really is

Is this gap normal for folks or is it a symptom of my mess too?



I have gaps on front and rear, right and left sides, but they vary in the gap. Stock axle housing and stock covers. Only thing different is the HR Emax Servo Mount.


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I have a Betty, not a deadbolt. But, i feel like the diff covers, (specifically where YOUR gap) is....kinda "snap" down over the ridge they're currently all-but-straddling. Takes a slight bit more than "snug" on all screws when tightening down the cover.

Start by screwing the four corners in a similar pattern to when you remove and install lug nuts on a real car kind of like a star...(Top left, Bottom Right, BOTTOM left, top right) only thread em till they TOUCH the cover, then run the screws in the middle down till they move the cover evenly over said-"ridge", then repeat pattern until all are "snug", whilst the cover is flush to the axle housing.

Alternatively, u could just tighten the center two screws evenly till the cover centers and snaps-down.

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[23drumerboy]

Originally Posted by NkedFatWhiteGuy

Man, my Deadbolt is a mess with all my mods! I might have to pull it back down to stock and see if I can add things back slowly to try and figure out where the problem really is

Is this gap normal for folks or is it a symptom of my mess too?



I have gaps on front and rear, right and left sides, but they vary in the gap. Stock axle housing and stock covers. Only thing different is the HR Emax Servo Mount.


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Also, it's more, (at least in my head) that the loose diff cover is the cause of your wobble symptom

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[23drumerboy]

Originally Posted by 23drumerboy

Also, it's more, (at least in my head) that the loose diff cover is the cause of your wobble symptom

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The diff cover needs to "pin" The inner axle bearings down into the axle housing in order to allow the axle to freely spin with the inner race of said bearings, before u follow my prior-intstructions, please verify the two diff bearings under the cover are, indeed aligned and SEATED into their "recess' "

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[NkedFatWhiteGuy]

So I ended up swapping out my axle housing got as n inexpensive set from eBay. Started reassembly and realized that I had a bent rear drive axle... so I swapped back from the Hot Racing +4’s to stock, and guess what. Yep, bent drive axle! I looked closer at the stock axle housing and it is bent a bit too.

Here goes my theory: somehow I managed to mess up the diff cover mounting (blaming myself but not full convinced) which put pressure on the axle housing. The bend in the axle housing put the internal bearings out of alignment. As I moved to bigger tires and more weight, that pressure and jacked up alignment caused the bend in the drive axles which results in the wobble. So it is that, or my kid dropped it or stepped on it or something....

Regardless, I have a new set of Hot Racing +4’s on order and am going to start fresh in the new aluminum axle housings. I am hoping that the stiff housings and new, straight drive axles will fix my problem!!!!

... oh, and now I have to replace worm gear o-rings since I found one of those shredded in the front worm gear ... sigh ....


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[23drumerboy]

Originally Posted by NkedFatWhiteGuy

So I ended up swapping out my axle housing got as n inexpensive set from eBay. Started reassembly and realized that I had a bent rear drive axle... so I swapped back from the Hot Racing +4’s to stock, and guess what. Yep, bent drive axle! I looked closer at the stock axle housing and it is bent a bit too.

Here goes my theory: somehow I managed to mess up the diff cover mounting (blaming myself but not full convinced) which put pressure on the axle housing. The bend in the axle housing put the internal bearings out of alignment. As I moved to bigger tires and more weight, that pressure and jacked up alignment caused the bend in the drive axles which results in the wobble. So it is that, or my kid dropped it or stepped on it or something....

Regardless, I have a new set of Hot Racing +4’s on order and am going to start fresh in the new aluminum axle housings. I am hoping that the stiff housings and new, straight drive axles will fix my problem!!!!

... oh, and now I have to replace worm gear o-rings since I found one of those shredded in the front worm gear ... sigh ....


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I watched a Youtuber claim he owns several, SCX24's, and "has yet to/has never seen o rings by the time he opens his diffs?" I put one against every (differential/worm output,) bearing as a spacer between the rotating bearings, and the internal parts that could destroy their seals, rub and get hot/create drag, etc. He claimed if he "had" seen any, it was one time (multiple scx24 trucks), and it was the tiniest fragment/scrap/shrapnel left from what may have been only ONE o-ring used, on diff output-(center d. Shaft). Between the outer bearing and inner parts to act as a seal.

I dont believe everything i hear online (you know what I meant)

But i do know i crammed 1-3 o rings in my diff when i added overdrive to front axle on my Betty, and that damn truck hasnt been quiet SINCE! Lol sounds like wheeling...a, ghetto-a** ....Tesla. bahaha

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[23drumerboy]

Originally Posted by NkedFatWhiteGuy

So I ended up swapping out my axle housing got as n inexpensive set from eBay. Started reassembly and realized that I had a bent rear drive axle... so I swapped back from the Hot Racing +4’s to stock, and guess what. Yep, bent drive axle! I looked closer at the stock axle housing and it is bent a bit too.

Here goes my theory: somehow I managed to mess up the diff cover mounting (blaming myself but not full convinced) which put pressure on the axle housing. The bend in the axle housing put the internal bearings out of alignment. As I moved to bigger tires and more weight, that pressure and jacked up alignment caused the bend in the drive axles which results in the wobble. So it is that, or my kid dropped it or stepped on it or something....

Regardless, I have a new set of Hot Racing +4’s on order and am going to start fresh in the new aluminum axle housings. I am hoping that the stiff housings and new, straight drive axles will fix my problem!!!!

... oh, and now I have to replace worm gear o-rings since I found one of those shredded in the front worm gear ... sigh ....


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When i clean/re-lube in near future, i will NOT put ANY o rings at all and see how things go. (New furtitek Tegu ESC, awating BL motor upgrade, and FS-Gr3e RX) probably due for bearing set (now and (mostly) since new, she's been in "indoors-only" Betty! Hehe.

She likes the garage and flower bed out front, or to be hauled around via TRX 4Sport. (Built indoor crawler section for trucks of similar scale

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[NkedFatWhiteGuy]

Originally Posted by 23drumerboy

I watched a Youtuber claim he owns several, SCX24's, and "has yet to/has never seen o rings by the time he opens his diffs?" I put one against every (differential/worm output,) bearing as a spacer between the rotating bearings, and the internal parts that could destroy their seals, rub and get hot/create drag, etc. He claimed if he "had" seen any, it was one time (multiple scx24 trucks), and it was the tiniest fragment/scrap/shrapnel left from what may have been only ONE o-ring used, on diff output-(center d. Shaft). Between the outer bearing and inner parts to act as a seal.

I dont believe everything i hear online (you know what I meant)

But i do know i crammed 1-3 o rings in my diff when i added overdrive to front axle on my Betty, and that damn truck hasnt been quiet SINCE! Lol sounds like wheeling...a, ghetto-a** ....Tesla. bahaha

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When you were putting o-rings in, what size were you using and where did you get them from? I tried without and that front worm gear “ticks” against the bearing - of the bearing itself is mov - and driving me crazy!!!

I bought 3 different sized Axial o-rings and they were all the wrong size! The closest I got was a 2.5x1.5mm (P/N: AXA1179) but it was too thick and introducing a lot of extra stress just turning the wheels. I think I need a 2.5x1mm, but I’m gonna pull stuff apart again and measure tomorrow.

Any tips on finding a replacement would be much appreciated!


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[23drumerboy]

Originally Posted by NkedFatWhiteGuy

When you were putting o-rings in, what size were you using and where did you get them from? I tried without and that front worm gear “ticks” against the bearing - of the bearing itself is mov - and driving me crazy!!!

I bought 3 different sized Axial o-rings and they were all the wrong size! The closest I got was a 2.5x1.5mm (P/N: AXA1179) but it was too thick and introducing a lot of extra stress just turning the wheels. I think I need a 2.5x1mm, but I’m gonna pull stuff apart again and measure tomorrow.

Any tips on finding a replacement would be much appreciated!


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As you see in the manual, despite lack of further description aside from diagrams, the front axle uses only two what I consider from the picture to be shims, NOT o-rings. My o- rings came with my front axle overdrive kit,, they included like five or seven of them and the YouTuber I mentioned before said it was mostly because they're very small and jumpy and easy to lose so they give you a few extras though he claimed he wouldn't put em in because the diff is just going to tear em apart anyway.

Did you see the shims in the axle? A lot of people miss them because they stick right up against the inside bearing race of the bearings that they are spacing from if that makes sense?

In fact I've grown accustomed to rubbing the bearing between my fingers kind of like rolling a joint just to make sure that I'm not missing a spacer that it's camouflaged real well and stuck with grease.

Maybe try running two o-rings on the side that's making the tick? If you can figure it out to me it sounds like you have a burr on a bearing race or on the ring gear or whatever is butting up next to the tick lol. I would put shims if you haven't or if you've lost them where the diagram shows which would be on the little worm gear either end before the bearing to act as a spacer so the bearing doesn't chew up the worm. . . . Then maybe try putting two o-rings that when stretched not qqquuuiiiite to their max, match the diameter of the inner bearing races?? You don't even need axial low rings if you can go to harbor freight or whatever tool or hardware store or Fastenal that you can find, just ask if they carry little tiny o-rings I've had great look at Ace hardware or similar places.. not for these o-rings but for itty-bitty e-clips, and other oddities

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[23drumerboy]

Originally Posted by NkedFatWhiteGuy

When you were putting o-rings in, what size were you using and where did you get them from? ..... but it was too thick and introducing a lot of extra stress just turning the wheels. I think I need a 2.5x1mm, but I’m gonna pull stuff apart again and measure tomorrow.

Any tips on finding a replacement would be much appreciated!


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One thing I've noticed being an automotive technician, is that if you get two o-ring kits not sure if they make them in the sizes you're looking for that we need for these trucks, but your standard automotive o-ring kit... You get the metric kit and the "standard"/SAE kit and you set em side by side and open them right up, first thing you'll notice if you grab two o-rings from the same spot one from each of the kits (if matching kits), and I believe it's the metric ones? That are much thicker approximately almost double the thickness of SAE, don't quote me on it it could be the total opposite way around, but one is definitely thicker than the other Even if you could go look at o-rings at an Ace hardware and find out which one is which from this factoid, it'll help you at least know what to ask for?

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[J'scrawler]

I have also come across this bent drive stub issue front and rear. one of the front dogbones is actually bent! i havent looked at the axle housing itself to see if maybe it too is bent. Id like to find some replacement dogbones.
Anyway i have not installed the +4mm drive stubs yet so i cant comment if it causes the "toe in" issue, but i will say the brass knuckles i put on do cause the "toe in". the bearing kit from fast eddy is a must, the stock bearings fall apart in a short amount of time.