RCCrawler Forums

Mud Puppy · 02-25-2011, 12:24 AM

If you are breaking driveshafts on a near-stock rig you are probably either binding the drivetrain by wedging a tire and not knowing when to give up or going off ledges that are too high. I like stock shafts. They are a cheap and easy to fix "fuse" that breaks before something more important goes.

I have rolled my budget-build AX10 end over end about 15 times down a 45 degree bank and all it did was break the body mounts. I'm pretty impressed with how tought htey are.

mbvdl · 02-25-2011, 03:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mud Puppy

If you are breaking driveshafts on a near-stock rig you are probably either binding the drivetrain by wedging a tire and not knowing when to give up or going off ledges that are too high. I like stock shafts. They are a cheap and easy to fix "fuse" that breaks before something more important goes.

I have rolled my budget-build AX10 end over end about 15 times down a 45 degree bank and all it did was break the body mounts. I'm pretty impressed with how tought htey are.

I tend to agree here, same situation.
For interest sake, where do you guys order your ax10 parts from? I see tower and the like on have the stock outdrives etc.

CrawlinClodKiller · 02-25-2011, 03:25 AM

See vendors section.

Duuuuuuuude · 02-25-2011, 08:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by octigonwallrus

hmm i don't know how you all drive your scx10s.

Harder than you, apparently.

Quote:

Originally Posted by mbvdl

I tend to agree here, same situation.
For interest sake, where do you guys order your ax10 parts from? I see tower and the like on have the stock outdrives etc.

Yup, check the vendors section. Anybody there has what you need, and they support the crawler scene better than any other store you can find.

scx10rtr · 02-25-2011, 01:13 PM

yeah well i got some stuff to get, and im in to scale and i play in sand and stuff like that, somehow i break stuff way to easy, idk if its me or what. But my prob starts at my drive shafts to my axles, you know how u can hold up the truck and let it drive, well mine dont run smooth at all, anyone know?

gottorque · 02-25-2011, 02:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by scx10rtr

yeah well i got some stuff to get, and im in to scale and i play in sand and stuff like that, somehow i break stuff way to easy, idk if its me or what. But my prob starts at my drive shafts to my axles, you know how u can hold up the truck and let it drive, well mine dont run smooth at all, anyone know?

what kind of maintenence do you do on it before and after a run. I ask because sand is nasty stuff to have in a drivetrain, which probably whats cause it to run rough.

While your replacing the broken parts, go ahead and take apart both axles and tranny, clean the internals thouroughly and regrease liberally. What kind of grease you use is up to you. Marine grease or Amsoil red and tacky should work well.

When you are done for the day give it a once over and spray any bare metal parts with wd40 if you were playing in the wet stuff to prevent rust formation.

scx10rtr · 02-25-2011, 06:15 PM

yeah, well im starting to get it but people keep telling me to go to places on this site but i cant find that dang things!!!

gottorque · 02-25-2011, 06:22 PM

How to use the Search button
The stickies on the top of the newbie thread are very informational also. Happy searching

Dillpickle · 02-25-2011, 07:04 PM

For the driveshaft, I took a T-maxx drive shaft and cut of the ends. Then, i slide them over the driveshaft so that it cannot pop loose. I glued this on and BAM! no more problem.

scx10rtr · 02-25-2011, 09:54 PM

ty man om i bout figure it out also everytime something broke i was playin my sand pile??? i have scx10 tr and it might not be made to do what i was doin with it

Duuuuuuuude · 02-26-2011, 12:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by scx10rtr

yeah, well im starting to get it but people keep telling me to go to places on this site but i cant find that dang things!!!

What exactly can't you find? Its all laid out pretty plainly...

kmnss · 02-26-2011, 01:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by K.O.M.

Ok, I'll play Devil's Advocate for a second.

In 4 battery packs, I have:

-popped the driveshafts off the the tranny output/axle input more times than I can count, necessitating 4 additional set screws as all I had were a few spare parts I can carry in a small backpack instead of swapping out the driveshafts

Common problem, get over it. Buy pede shafts, or go MIP. Problem solved.

-broke one plastic c-hub, replaced withs pare

plastic

-broke one plastic knuckle, replaced with spare

plastic

-destroyed one of the front dobones

More than likely happened while one of the two prior problems presented themselves to you

The Summit? Not a single thing wrong, and he was launching that thing over 4 foot ledges.

Just a thought, please discuss.

Buy a Summit.

Flexx · 02-26-2011, 10:16 AM

Take the time to go through the trucks and clean up and look over. When they are cleaned up, with no motor or pinion, the trucks should roll nice and smooth, if not smooth then find out why it does not roll smooth, either bearings, wheel too tight, gears damaged and so on. Also undo the steering linkage at the servo horn, not the horn itself although you can you just might have to re-center the servo for straight steering, and make sure the steering is moving freely. If not find why it is binding and fix, such as knuckles getting hung up. Once the trucks roll and turn easily, put everything back together and check the steering throw, or how much the truck turns in each direction. If the truck turns to much it can bind the axles and stress out parts and break em.

Look into End Point Adjustments or EPA's on your transmitter radio. Make sure your not turning and binding up and giving it throttle which easily breaks axles.

scx10rtr · 02-26-2011, 12:33 PM

dam im an idiot lol i some how put my shock on my frame instaed of the thing that sticks up off frame, witch cause to much of an angle on drive shaft ty guys

MRCCRAWLER1.9 · 02-26-2011, 02:53 PM

you need stronger driveshafts..

i agree man, buying stuff that breaks gets really frustrating, but theres a learning curve that needs to be established.

if you dont like fixing it, id say sell it.

scx10rtr · 02-26-2011, 11:18 PM

shit i dont care bout fixing it i love to work on them its just i charge my battery bout 15 hours how much run time should i get, im getting mabey 2 hours!!!!

MRCCRAWLER1.9 · 02-26-2011, 11:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by scx10rtr

shit i dont care bout fixing it i love to work on them its just i charge my battery bout 15 hours how much run time should i get, im getting mabey 2 hours!!!!

then buy a new charger from hobbypartz.com!

steeltoe · 02-26-2011, 11:52 PM

ya and 2 hours is a hell of a runtime for one battery too, dunno why you think thats a bad thing. charger must obviously be a trickle charger.

MRCCRAWLER1.9 · 02-27-2011, 12:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by steeltoe

ya and 2 hours is a hell of a runtime for one battery too, dunno why you think thats a bad thing. charger must obviously be a trickle charger.

mehh i think ill be in his shoes for a second, but 15hours for a 2hour run really doesnt put it too me.. i would really like a bat charged while the other is running

so essentially, i can get a battery running for 30min, and a charge cycle finish in the 30min period im crawling

scx10rtr · 02-27-2011, 10:28 AM

i said mabey... njow today lol i broke somthing else YAY!!!!

i got to fix it anyone help me?

02-25-2011, 12:24 AM	#21
Mud Puppy Rock Crawler Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Abbotsford BC Posts: 522	If you are breaking driveshafts on a near-stock rig you are probably either binding the drivetrain by wedging a tire and not knowing when to give up or going off ledges that are too high. I like stock shafts. They are a cheap and easy to fix "fuse" that breaks before something more important goes. I have rolled my budget-build AX10 end over end about 15 times down a 45 degree bank and all it did was break the body mounts. I'm pretty impressed with how tought htey are.

02-25-2011, 03:25 AM	#23
CrawlinClodKiller Rock Crawler Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: West Omaha Posts: 581	See vendors section.

02-25-2011, 01:13 PM	#25
scx10rtr Pebble Pounder Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: usa Posts: 112	yeah well i got some stuff to get, and im in to scale and i play in sand and stuff like that, somehow i break stuff way to easy, idk if its me or what. But my prob starts at my drive shafts to my axles, you know how u can hold up the truck and let it drive, well mine dont run smooth at all, anyone know?

02-25-2011, 06:15 PM	#27
scx10rtr Pebble Pounder Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: usa Posts: 112	yeah, well im starting to get it but people keep telling me to go to places on this site but i cant find that dang things!!!

02-25-2011, 06:22 PM	#28
gottorque RCC Addict Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Ontherocks Posts: 1,980	How to use the Search button The stickies on the top of the newbie thread are very informational also. Happy searching

02-25-2011, 07:04 PM	#29
Dillpickle Rock Crawler Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Chapin, South Carolina Posts: 666	For the driveshaft, I took a T-maxx drive shaft and cut of the ends. Then, i slide them over the driveshaft so that it cannot pop loose. I glued this on and BAM! no more problem.

02-25-2011, 09:54 PM	#30
scx10rtr Pebble Pounder Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: usa Posts: 112	ty man om i bout figure it out also everytime something broke i was playin my sand pile??? i have scx10 tr and it might not be made to do what i was doin with it

02-26-2011, 10:16 AM	#33
Flexx Rock Stacker Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: A Mile High Posts: 55	Take the time to go through the trucks and clean up and look over. When they are cleaned up, with no motor or pinion, the trucks should roll nice and smooth, if not smooth then find out why it does not roll smooth, either bearings, wheel too tight, gears damaged and so on. Also undo the steering linkage at the servo horn, not the horn itself although you can you just might have to re-center the servo for straight steering, and make sure the steering is moving freely. If not find why it is binding and fix, such as knuckles getting hung up. Once the trucks roll and turn easily, put everything back together and check the steering throw, or how much the truck turns in each direction. If the truck turns to much it can bind the axles and stress out parts and break em. Look into End Point Adjustments or EPA's on your transmitter radio. Make sure your not turning and binding up and giving it throttle which easily breaks axles.

02-26-2011, 12:33 PM	#34
scx10rtr Pebble Pounder Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: usa Posts: 112	dam im an idiot lol i some how put my shock on my frame instaed of the thing that sticks up off frame, witch cause to much of an angle on drive shaft ty guys

02-26-2011, 02:53 PM	#35
MRCCRAWLER1.9 RCC Addict Join Date: May 2010 Location: Los Altos, California Posts: 1,509	you need stronger driveshafts.. i agree man, buying stuff that breaks gets really frustrating, but theres a learning curve that needs to be established. if you dont like fixing it, id say sell it.

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02-26-2011, 11:18 PM	#36
scx10rtr Pebble Pounder Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: usa Posts: 112	shit i dont care bout fixing it i love to work on them its just i charge my battery bout 15 hours how much run time should i get, im getting mabey 2 hours!!!!

02-26-2011, 11:52 PM	#38
steeltoe Rock Stacker Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Santee CA Posts: 81	ya and 2 hours is a hell of a runtime for one battery too, dunno why you think thats a bad thing. charger must obviously be a trickle charger.

02-27-2011, 10:28 AM	#40
scx10rtr Pebble Pounder Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: usa Posts: 112	i said mabey... njow today lol i broke somthing else YAY!!!! i got to fix it anyone help me?

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