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Thread: which moa kit to go with?

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Old 08-01-2011, 12:29 PM   #21
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Totally agree! The majority of the aluminum is just bling. Really nice and strong bling, but definitely not needed. Build it right take care of it and it will last.

Wes
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Old 08-01-2011, 12:36 PM   #22
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i have read through a few of the pro's build threads and i dont see that the need all aluminum. hell yeah you would want the VP bling, but to operate it and comp...not all of it is necessary. you really need to read some of the builds in each group..berg, bully, xr10. they all have their pros and cons. i will say this. my berg axles have cost me much more then my xr10's.

good luck.
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Old 08-01-2011, 12:52 PM   #23
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The XR10 axle has some well known and well documented "issues" all of which can be corrected with the Vanquish "bling"...that's all I'm saying (take from it what you will)
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Old 08-01-2011, 01:58 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crawl-o-matic View Post
The XR10 axle has some well known and well documented "issues" all of which can be corrected with the Vanquish "bling"...that's all I'm saying (take from it what you will)
And those are taken care of with the 120 I showed him to spend.

You obviously don't own one and have no clue what you are talking about.

Here is the cheap and effective way to fix the top plate issues IF you need to:

4xFord's Team Y-Town XR10

Part number 94510A030 at McMaster-Carr and available for a whole 10.63

No crawler is perfect or bullet proof.

Quote:
Originally Posted by minnesotamudder View Post
I might jsut do that, it only will be about 500 becuse i have a 4pl
That's great, you are 30% there then!

Certainly you can find used deals and cut some cost off of my list. I just gave average retail so you had a high end view.

You can also alternatively save some money up front by using cheaper stock type motors and a punk or heyok dig switch. I did this and run cheap 55t axials on 4s right now. While some hand wounds are most definitely better, the 55t's on 4s are no slouch.

Quote:
Originally Posted by crawl-o-matic View Post
First off, I'm NOT saying that the XR10 isn't any good. Let's clear that up right now. What I am saying is: This is what you need to have MOSTLY aluminum XR10 axles:
Vanquish aluminum tops : 120 x 2 = 240 They only make the front so two is unnecessary.
link mounts : 40 x 2 = 80 Definitely not needed.
transmision case : 40 x 2 = 80 Not needed
motor plate : 20 x 2 = 40
steering knuckles : 50 x 2 = 100 not needed
chubs : 45 not needed
lock outs : 35 not needed
now add the cost of the original plastic XR10's, and your total is going to be right around $800

The fact is, is that XR10 axles were designed for the person who likes to upgrade, and there's nothing wrong with that. Berg and Bully axles are ready right out of the box...and there's nothing wrong with that either. Berg axles require upgrades as well, in fact, I don't know a berg owner who doesn't have upgraded axles, and super 300's aren't cheap either, not too mention gears and other things, Bully's are fine if the machined version, the others have some issues as well, the Bully is still not as competitive as the berg or XR either, the bully axles will set you back 250 by themselves, add in the extras like a chassis, links, etc and the price gets higher

Last edited by TexasSP; 08-01-2011 at 02:13 PM.
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Old 08-01-2011, 04:02 PM   #25
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[QUOTE=minnesotamudder;3209882] i might get to try a berg at my next comp so ill see how i like it

That's how I got a Berg also. Drove Eddie's (novasark) or maybe it was his son's. Can't remember. Anyway, Drove it, loved it, & did ALOT better with the Berg than I did with the Losi Comp. Crawler with the MOA kit & other up-grades. I think Bergs are the best. But that's just me.
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Old 08-01-2011, 04:40 PM   #26
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Doing things on the cheap can work remarkably well in all areas of RC, including crawling. If you're going to steer someone down that path, a good bit of show and tell is required....which you did, so hats off to you, sir
Quote:
Originally Posted by TexasSP View Post
And those are taken care of with the 120 I showed him to spend.

You obviously don't own one and have no clue what you are talking about.

Here is the cheap and effective way to fix the top plate issues IF you need to:

4xFord's Team Y-Town XR10

Part number 94510A030 at McMaster-Carr and available for a whole 10.63

No crawler is perfect or bullet proof.



That's great, you are 30% there then!

Certainly you can find used deals and cut some cost off of my list. I just gave average retail so you had a high end view.

You can also alternatively save some money up front by using cheaper stock type motors and a punk or heyok dig switch. I did this and run cheap 55t axials on 4s right now. While some hand wounds are most definitely better, the 55t's on 4s are no slouch.
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Old 08-01-2011, 05:39 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crawl-o-matic View Post
First off, I'm NOT saying that the XR10 isn't any good. Let's clear that up right now. What I am saying is: This is what you need to have MOSTLY aluminum XR10 axles:
Vanquish aluminum tops : 120 x 2 = 240
link mounts : 40 x 2 = 80
transmision case : 40 x 2 = 80
motor plate : 20 x 2 = 40
steering knuckles : 50 x 2 = 100
chubs : 45
lock outs : 35
now add the cost of the original plastic XR10's, and your total is going to be right around $800

The fact is, is that XR10 axles were designed for the person who likes to upgrade, and there's nothing wrong with that. Berg and Bully axles are ready right out of the box...and there's nothing wrong with that either.
I'm another who will disagree. I comp twice a week with mine and I have RC4WD gears and Vanquish gearboxes with bushings and I've no issues what so ever after that. I did go through the stock bearings and gears quite fast but a few bucks in upgrades and it's been bomber for months now!!!
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Old 08-01-2011, 05:43 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Norcal_GIT_r View Post
I'm another who will disagree. I comp twice a week with mine and I have RC4WD gears and Vanquish gearboxes with bushings and I've no issues what so ever after that. I did go through the stock bearings and gears quite fast but a few bucks in upgrades and it's been bomber for months now!!!
I agree with you too. All I have in my truck is VP motor-plates and rc4wd gears. I comp every week with it and beat the crap out of it. It doesn't even pop anymore.

So all that crap that got listed above for the xr10 is unnecessary.
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Old 08-01-2011, 08:54 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kingpin View Post
If it means anything to you I am jumping from shafty to MOA and am getting in with a Berg. I ordered the same kit you linked, but I have a feeling I'll be jumping to a Viper chassis ASAP. When it gets here I'll see how I like it. For now, I am going to save the money, get it running, and see how I like it before I start changing things. You always need a baseline!
Meh I got the chassis today (the stock one in the link). The shocks hit the chassis and severely limit articulation. Viper chassis is going to be run from the get go!
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