Servo Steering Question

[hookem1]

So I got my Dingo together. But I am a bit confused. My servo is mounted on the axle in the stock location. When I turn to the left (drivers side)it turns great. But when I turn to the right (passenger side)it maxes out and doesn't turn very far. I have a Hi-Tec HS-7955TG servo. Am I missing something? Should I mount it a different way? Or do I need to do something to the servo?

Any help would be greatly appreciated...

[k7zpj]

Try this:

1. Take off the servo horn
2. Power up the rig to let the servo center
3. Put the servo horn back on with the wheels centered.
4. Power Off the rig.

[meatmonkey]

k7zpj has got it right. You must have your channel 1 trim set at "0" and everything powered up when you attach the servo horn in the straight ahead direction.

Even then you will find that due to the short drag link you must use the radio endpoint adjustment so that at maximum steering angle, your steering knuckle arms lightly contact the C-hub retaining screw.

Don't be surprised if one side needs only 80 End Point Adjustment (EPA for short), while the other wants 120 EPA. (all numbers are hypothetically, every truck is slightly different)

I hope you got a good aluminum servo horn with your super-strong servo, otherwise you'll be repeating this procedure very soon.

[hookem1]

Thanks Meatmonkey! I have an aluminum servo horn, but may be getting a stronger one. I am using the one that came with the servo, think it has enough strength?

[jado6006]

Originally Posted by hookem1

Thanks Meatmonkey! I have an aluminum servo horn, but may be getting a stronger one. I am using the one that came with the servo, think it has enough strength?

It'll be fine for strength. But check its length. If it's a shorty, like a losi or sumthin, get a longer one. Like an airtronics. Easiest way to get more steering.

[Johnnysplits]

Don't go too long though. More than 1" from spline center to where the link is attached, the servo will begin to lose torque. Chances are with a 1" horn, you'll have more steering than it needs and have to turn down the epa a bit.

[meatmonkey]

In my experience the thin, blue, aluminum horn included with most high-torque Hitec servo's is durable enough for most people, myself excluded.

I think they were originally intended for aircraft use.(?)

I say this because of the small holes for the rod end to mount to.

This issue is that you must drill the horn out to 3mm, which reduces the amount of material around the hole. Over time, and many stress cycles, the horn eventually cracked where the bolt goes through. I broke one in a few months getting used to the truck, then broke the second in less than two weeks once I started romping on it.

I run Robitronics horns whenever possible. They offer a "long" and a "short" version. The ones I use have two holes, one at 3/4" and the other at 1". The shorter hole will allow full steering, and increased leverage, on most rigs with the EPA set at 120 or less.

From a leverage standpoint, you are better of running the shortest practical horn with as much EPA as possible.

There is no golden servo horn length. It will always depend on the length of the steering arms on the knuckles. Longer steering arms=longer servo horn.

Even on my super-sharp turning Wraith I can get away with a 3/4" horn because the stock steering arms on the knuckle are fairly short.

I have an XR converted SCX that gets the same max steering as the wraith, but with a 1" horn since my custom zero-ackerman steering arms are almost 1/4 longer than stock.

[hookem1]

Thanks for the detailed response meatmonkey. I am wanting to spend the money once and get the better or best product. I will go ahead and get the robotronics. Did you get the long or short version?

Thank you to all that have replied.

[Cope]

Just a heads up, When searching for a Robitronics horn dont forget to check your spelling.

Its Robi, not Robo.

[meatmonkey]

The short version I believe.

[Natedog]

Originally Posted by meatmonkey

In my experience the thin, blue, aluminum horn included with most high-torque Hitec servo's is durable enough for most people, myself excluded.

I think they were originally intended for aircraft use.(?)

I say this because of the small holes for the rod end to mount to.

This issue is that you must drill the horn out to 3mm, which reduces the amount of material around the hole. Over time, and many stress cycles, the horn eventually cracked where the bolt goes through. I broke one in a few months getting used to the truck, then broke the second in less than two weeks once I started romping on it.

I run Robitronics horns whenever possible. They offer a "long" and a "short" version. The ones I use have two holes, one at 3/4" and the other at 1". The shorter hole will allow full steering, and increased leverage, on most rigs with the EPA set at 120 or less.

From a leverage standpoint, you are better of running the shortest practical horn with as much EPA as possible.

There is no golden servo horn length. It will always depend on the length of the steering arms on the knuckles. Longer steering arms=longer servo horn.

Even on my super-sharp turning Wraith I can get away with a 3/4" horn because the stock steering arms on the knuckle are fairly short.

I have an XR converted SCX that gets the same max steering as the wraith, but with a 1" horn since my custom zero-ackerman steering arms are almost 1/4 longer than stock.

Robitronics are good, Axial hard anodized clamping servo horn is very nice and the color is less stand out.

[khoun]

i put the Hanger 9 servo arm on and havent had a problem. seems pretty srtong.