Custom link measuring advice, and Drive shaft angle

[Headrunner]

My Deadbolt is finally getting the Mojave body I have been working on mounted up. I got the body mounted where it will go yesterday and am now ready to start making my links from all thread and brake line. I was about to dive right in when I had a few questions come to mind.



1: Should I disconnect all current links and place the axles with no wheels under the frame and just focus on the bottom links first? Or what is ideal for lining up the axles and measuring link lengths so that everything lines up in the wheel wells when riding or with fully compressed suspension.

2: Drive shaft angle, I am assuming picture 1 is far more ideal than picture 2 is that correct?
Picture 1


Picture 2


I plan on trying to keep my front as close to what it is now. From what little I know I understand the angle can effect steering and C hubs.

Should I shoot for my rear to be similar to picture 1?

[lonleycreeper]

A couple of options.
Measure the stock links eye to eye. Then add length or take it away depending on what you need(the tubing).
Second option
Drill some straight holes in a nice stiff material at the wheelbase you want. Bolt the axles to said material and make your links to match the space you need.

[Headrunner]

Thanks for the advice lonleycreeper

[redsawacs]

Keep in mind, the suspension will never see "full compression" outside you slamming it with your hand. But, I understand you are talking about the wheels utilizing the fender wells appropriately.

I ask this, do you want to alter the current wheelbase? If so, you should figure out how far you need to alter it front and rear individually then adjust the lower links to match. IF you decide that you need to alter the wheelbase, do that first, then worry about pinion angle and upper links.

Eyeball the pinion angle that you want and measure from eye to eye mounting position. When making links, Subtract 15mm (approx) from the length of the overall mounting point measurement for your screw on ball ends and that should get you very close to the length you want.

**NOTE: you will need to remove the front brace or grind it out to allow for the servo horn when you rotate the axle to correct pinion angle.

[Ohioskills]

i use 2 rod ends, 1.75in break line, set screw, 1.25in threaded m3 rod and 2 m3 nuts

put the threaded rod into the rod end
set screw into the other rod end in
solder the m3 nuts to the break line
screw the ends on
then u accurately turn out the threaded end out till ur axles meet the wheel well nice then measure the eyes and make a nice pretty LINK

this idea makes THIS
http://store.rc4wd.com/Superlift-Adj...mm_p_3516.html

[TacoCrawler]

Originally Posted by Headrunner

1: Should I disconnect all current links and place the axles with no wheels under the frame and just focus on the bottom links first? Or what is ideal for lining up the axles and measuring link lengths so that everything lines up in the wheel wells when riding or with fully compressed suspension.

The lower link rods control the wheel base.

The upper link rods offer the adjustment control for the axle's axis (rotation),
as well, control the drive shaft/pinion angle setting.

I would first start by determining the lower link rod length
for the proper wheel base setting.

* The Dingo's link rods are set for a 11.4" wheel base.
either HiLux or Mojave bodies are dang near the same
wheel base as that of the Dingo.

So utilizing the length of the Dingo lower/upper link rods...
would help in establishing your initial wheel base setting.

Clocking the axle housing...

The Dingo upper link rod lengths can be extended/lengthened...
by adding a 2-3 mm link rod spacer(s) to the stock upper link rod(s)
should be enough to offer the necessary axle rotation.

I recommend (if making your own)
that the link rod lengths be slightly shorter
then what is the precise (exact) length needed.
Using the spacers on the link rods...
will allow for further adjustment (fine honing).

The choice of link rod ends...
will also effect the link's over-all length.

so... measure twice... cut once.
and hopefully have some spacers on hand
in case ya screwed that up. Lol

* The rear axle housing does not need be rotated...
unless the drive shaft angle is too severe.
^ Not likely...
if utilizing the Dingo link lengths and following the Axial Dingo assembly instructions.

* If rotating the front axle...
it is likely you will need purchase steering components (Cubs/knuckles)
that will compensate for the axle's rotation
and the reduction of the positive caster.

^ You'll want some positive caster remaining
after the axle has been clocked.

Positive caster means:

the upper side of the Chub/knuckle is situated slightly rearward.
whereas the lower is situated slightly forward.

If the Chubs/knuckles are perfectly vertical...
then that would be 0 degree castor.

If the top of the Chub/knuckle is leaning forward...
that would be negative caster.

Originally Posted by Headrunner

2: Drive shaft angle, I am assuming picture 1 is far more ideal than picture 2 is that correct?

Disconnect the drive shaft end from the transmission...
turn the drive shaft at the same angle that it would align to
if connected to the transmission.

Can you feel any resistance, bind or cog ?
The Drive shaft Universals can turn at a fairly steep
angle without causing bind.
But you don't want to push them more then that.

Understand that the drive shaft angle changes during compression.
And will become less angled during that compression.

It is only at full droop the drive shaft/pinion angle becomes critical
so be sure to check for that.

Reducing your chassis static ride height helps...
in that...
during 90% of the operation time
the drive shaft angle will be less severe.

And so only at full extension (droop)
will the drive shaft angle be at it's limit.

there's a ton more to know...
but I'm not finishing this book.