How do I add weight? (TRX4)

[xbeetlejuiice]

Hey!
Don’t get me wrong here, I know I can add brass portals, metal axles, etc. That all seems pretty easy and is all made to “improve” the crawling capabilities of the TRX4.
Now that i want to buy a used crawler, this question is popping up in my head: How can i add weight to make the crawler more realistic? I am not into super difficult rock crawling or steep inclines, i am kinda geared towards slow crawls on loose dirt/gravel. Are there kits to make the car more tippy?

Thanks!

[Dezertdirt]

welcome to the forum.

You could run a hard body and/or an exocage, these would add weight up high. You could get the unlocking diffs from traxxas, if you don't already have them. you could run longer shocks which would raise the cg. You could run smaller tires (4.19or smaller) which will make crawling harder. You could do a leaf spring conversion which will definitely make it harder to drive, I think someone on shapeways makes a conversion kit (not sure). You could get rid of the portals which will narrow the vehicle some.

example of a hard body
https://www.amazon.com/INJORA-Plasti...8128279&sr=8-1

locking diff kit ( might already have it, if it is not a sport)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/traxxas...ra8195/p777204

ssd portal delete (if you go this route you will need to play with the gearing)
https://www.amainhobbies.com/ssd-rc-...d00245/p730431
https://www.amainhobbies.com/ssd-rc-...d00243/p730430

small tires
https://www.amainhobbies.com/rc4wd-d...90865?v=237831

https://www.amainhobbies.com/proline...58574?v=846486

[spoo76]

Adding a hardbody and realistic scale details will make it more than tippy. Have you looked into what some of the super realistic builds with smaller street sized tires? Sometimes called "class 0" builds

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[Inspector86]

First, Welcome to RCC!

Sounds like you want to crawl the same way I like to. You can use stick on wheel balancing weights in the TRX4 battery tray recess underneath the battery which helps create a more realistic chassis movement while using a lexan body. A hard body is another way to add weight to the chassis but they can be problematic to mount not to mention expensive.

[No2Mud]

Right there with you! I've had 1:1 Jeeps and Toyotas for the past 20 years as "toys" - doing mild to moderate trails. Out of the box, my Gen8 is vastly more capable than if it were real. I have ZERO interest (now anyway) in making it more capable. I've painted it to make it more realistic. I may end up moving to a hard body - for weight and realism.

Keep us posted on what you do and how it works.

[JatoTheRipper]

Welcome to the site!

My 15 year old cousin just got a TRX-4 Blazer and he also said he wanted to add weight to make the suspension more realistic which I thought was interesting for a kid.

You may not need to add any weight. If you do, it'll certainly have to be sprung weight to get the body moving around.

[HugoBiermann]

Don’t forget about the shocks. If you want it shaking and swaying, take the oil out. Run just enough to lube the insides...


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[xbeetlejuiice]

Thank you all! I learned a lot! I will buy a TRX4 and get to work with making it heavier.

[xbeetlejuiice]

Originally Posted by HugoBiermann

Don’t forget about the shocks. If you want it shaking and swaying, take the oil out. Run just enough to lube the insides...


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I just looked up sone videos, that is insane! Actually exactly how i imagined it

https://youtu.be/czY-2b--Fqw

[HumboldtEF]

I'll just add that instead of no oil you could just run a very thin shock oil and find some softer springs.

Also the battery plays a big role in how heavy a rig is so you could look for the largest one that fits the battery tray.

[HugoBiermann]

My silly D90 runs on Tamiya Soft springs and cheap chinese internal spring shocks. Just enough 40wt oil in them to lube and with the supplied springs. Rig weighs around 5.5kg. Its a bouncy problem. Runs cool on a trail. Love it.


https://youtu.be/NB0blo9p3T8


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