04-22-2007, 03:12 PM | #1 |
MWRCA'er Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Machesney Park IL
Posts: 3,995
| Paint on the outside
What are your opinions on this. I am not a newb I know it is supposed to be painted on the inside. But, in order to get that flat faded paint look, like on old beater trucks I'm thinking it's the only way to get the right look. Has anyone ever just painted the inside then wet sanded the lexan to a satin finish on the outside. I have few TLT shells I could test it on I suppose. How durable is paint on the outside? I just don't want to roll then see paint go flying. Anyone have any tips for paint? I want my c-10 to look like this sorta. |
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04-22-2007, 04:49 PM | #2 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: LBC
Posts: 370
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I'm building a military style truck, so it will be flat green. They way I decided to do it was to paint it green from the inside, and then spray LustreKote's flat clear on the outside. I wanted to do it that way so scrapes and scratches wouldn't take off the color. http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...00&FVPROFIL=++ I sprayed a test parnel and it works great! Seems to stick to the lexan very well and is durable. Proper prep helps of coarse. I'm not sure about sanding the lexan for a dull look. Maybe hitting it with 000 steel wool would do the trick. However you did it, it would probably be hard to avoid having obvious swirl marks though. |
04-22-2007, 04:51 PM | #3 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Cedar Rapids
Posts: 2,028
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Ben it's like clear coat paint. It turns white when sanded. I would try it on an old body first.
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04-22-2007, 05:00 PM | #4 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: bay area
Posts: 444
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I too was looking to get that beater look. I had an old ford and used primer paint in red and dark green for spots. I may pick up alternte colors to fade in. the primer paint seems to stick well to the lexan. it definately won't flake off. I also have a can of clear coat and will add that once the right colors have been chosen. No special prep on the body, just washed the outside and started paintin. hope to see how yours turns out. |
04-22-2007, 09:15 PM | #5 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Warner Robins
Posts: 803
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I use a scotch brite pad to dull the outside. but like mentioned you'll get obvious sanding marks. Paint the inside with splaters of brown and orange then back it with silver. Use the scotch brite pad to scuff the outside, then paint it like the c-10 using paint made for lexan. It'll hold and flex just fine and if you scrap any paint off you'll see the bare metal or rust you painted on the inside. |
04-22-2007, 10:55 PM | #6 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Simi Vly
Posts: 818
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I am in the process of painting my body right now. I am going to paint on the outside. Green on the out, I have gray primer on the inside of the body. I am hoping it will look like if I hit something, the paint will scratch a bit. I don't really care if the paint fades/chip and what not. It may work, may not. Maybe I will have a coat clear on there too.
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04-22-2007, 11:24 PM | #7 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Saugus
Posts: 544
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I have had great results with my bodies painted on the outside. Looks great if you paint this inside silver so when the outside color scrapes off it looks like bare metal.
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04-23-2007, 01:45 AM | #8 |
MWRCA'er Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Machesney Park IL
Posts: 3,995
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Ok so I'm thinking I will paint the body on the inside then with silver paint and brown chunks. Paint the outside to get that flat look I want and hope the paint holds up long enough.
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04-23-2007, 02:13 AM | #9 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: USA
Posts: 11,196
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I painted the outside of one body. Then cleared it with Future floor polish. I can't get it to chip or scratch off. I have tried...Funny, b/c I want it to come off. My plan back fired. Next time I'm not using future...lol
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04-23-2007, 07:12 AM | #10 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Northeast
Posts: 734
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I just painted one recently with some black textured for plastic paint (I think by rustoleum). It looks great as beater paint job and the texttured paint makes it look aged a little more. I'll try to get some pictures up soon.
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04-23-2007, 09:47 AM | #11 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: We-Go, Chi-Town, Ill
Posts: 2,551
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Anybody try to thin Testors and/or Model Master Rust colored enamals wiht a Lacquer thinner before applying them to the inside of a lexan body with an airbrush? I've heard it can be done with that brand paint.
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04-23-2007, 01:37 PM | #12 |
Newbie Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: idaho falls
Posts: 23
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Make sure you use the same brand thinner to whatever reducing you want to do. I don't paint many lexan bodies in high detail but i am a airbrusher by hobby/trade. you can always reduce paints as long as you use that products compatible reducer / thinner [U][COLOR=#669900]http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...71p1010003.jpg Here is a lin to my gixxer. I have never had enough patience to get super detailed on my rc bodies just because I know I am damn hard on um!! Good luck.... If your going to use the silver backing idea and your airbrshing go into the local body paint supply house there and ask them for a silver metalic with a 20% touch of red oxide and just a couple drops 2% of dark brown that makes a sweet rust color if you do that post pics for sure Last edited by Jersdunz; 04-23-2007 at 01:53 PM. |
04-23-2007, 02:10 PM | #13 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: We-Go, Chi-Town, Ill
Posts: 2,551
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Good point Jers, I've read that Testors/Model Master enamals can be thinned with regular lacquer thinner and flows nicely when airbrushed (long time ago in Scale Auto Enthusiast magazine) and that doing so supposedly allows the paint to etch it's way into the Lexan(former co-worker who paints alot of RC's)
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04-23-2007, 05:27 PM | #14 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Here
Posts: 7,317
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Mnster, I did one just a couple of months ago. This is what it looked like a couple of weeks ago at a GTG. Mixed orange and brown for the inside of the body. I then sprayed the outside with black, then white and then final coat. I then put three coats of Future on it. Looked real nice until I took a dremel with a wire wheel and brush to it. I have now taken some sandpaper to it to get more of a fade look. Thanks for the decals R2J... |
04-23-2007, 10:54 PM | #15 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Oran, MO
Posts: 347
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That is a sweet scaler rckcrwlr. I really like the paint.
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04-24-2007, 07:41 AM | #16 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Pueblo West
Posts: 250
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man , that really turned out beautiful ............. oh wait , old and faded, like a feild truck , good job man should look lickasss when youre done |
04-24-2007, 10:23 AM | #17 |
Sinking with the ship Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: El Capitan...sole survivor and sinking fast
Posts: 8,864
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Rckcrwlr- That body looks like the real deal dude! Nice work! Mike |
04-24-2007, 01:30 PM | #18 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Here
Posts: 7,317
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Thanks guys...practicing for my full scaler that I will start in the fall. Mike, I may be calling you for some advise... John |
04-24-2007, 05:59 PM | #19 |
Built, not bought Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Gresham
Posts: 4,504
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Yep.Looks like a Chevy. |
04-24-2007, 06:06 PM | #20 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Here
Posts: 7,317
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