airbrush is driving me nuts!

[Elmo]

My Paasche worked for almost ten minutes before it stopped spraying paint. It will spray thinner all day long, but no paint. Switched to another airbush and same deal. Thinned the paint to nearly 50/50 and still no luck. Createx wont thin with anything i have including paint thinner, alcohol, water, createx brand reducer, nothing. That junk is going back to the store tomorrow. Got the mist coat of candy green laid down and that was it for the day. Going to have to figure something out to spray the other colors or i am stuck with $60 in scrap lexan.

[team3six]

Originally Posted by Elmo

My Paasche worked for almost ten minutes before it stopped spraying paint. It will spray thinner all day long, but no paint. Switched to another airbush and same deal. Thinned the paint to nearly 50/50 and still no luck. Createx wont thin with anything i have including paint thinner, alcohol, water, createx brand reducer, nothing. That junk is going back to the store tomorrow. Got the mist coat of candy green laid down and that was it for the day. Going to have to figure something out to spray the other colors or i am stuck with $60 in scrap lexan.

Airbrushes are meant to be sprayed in bursts. its like a can of paint. you cant just steady stream it and not expect clogging of the valve. your blowing a thick substance through a needle hole.

Thinning your paint is an art. depends on humidity where you are. But for some reason I have never had to thin my paint ever. Lucky I guess or the way I do it works best for me.

The other important step is air pressure. I like to spray at 35-40 P.S.I
Airbrushes that have the air control work, but are crap too. means more parts to clean after every use.

I think a lot of people forget the most important thing.

I like to use a Dental irrigation syringe.
It has a curved nozzle to get inside the cup or venturi and allows you to spray water through your airbrush.

Now I guess you can call me somewhat of an expert even though I haven't shot paint for a year now. I was certified a CFX Pro several years back by a group of my peers. I would like to think it has been from years of practice and the work I produced.

So my procedure when I cut paint was the best that I know of.
I never used Lacquer paint, I just never liked it and it was a nightmare to clean my expensive brushes. So Cretex (Which is NOT made by Faskolor) and Faskolor are water based paints. Which means you can cut them with water, or what I absolutely love is Blue Windex.

Blue Windex is great for 2 reasons.
1. Alcohol in the solution. Its just the right amount to dry paint faster. People that use straight alcohol tend to use too much, which causes Dry tip (Paint that clogs in the tip of the airbrush.) Now I said IN It just doesn't clog the tip. It also clogs inside.
2. It brightens light colors. It actually promotes a brighter color.

Which is why I use the Dental syringe.
It allows me to clean out any possible debris that may be inside the airbrush.
I also make it a habit to pull the needle back when I am clearing the tip.
once I think that the tip is clean. I check again.
But I use the needle to see. When you push the needle back into the tip. You may feel a small obstruction (A rubbery feeling) Like there is an O ring keeping the needle from going all the way against the tip (metal to metal)

this then involves you to remove the tip and use a sewing needle to scrap the inside of the needle to remove any dried paint.

Another way to help decrease any particles is to always put the cap back on your paint. But before you do, make a habit of wiping away any paint from the rim. Paint dries, paint clumps end up in paint, paint gets poured into airbrush, paint clogs airbrush. I have heard of some people pouring their paint through a nylon stocking. But From point A to Point Z if you eliminate any chance of getting the clumping to happen. then you have just made your life easier.

So, back to painting

Cut your Paint with Windex if you must.
a good start that seems to work is 10 to 1

Set compressor to 35 P.S.I. to start.

Pour paint into airbrush.

Spray against a back drop to start, NEVER start spraying into your shell first to avoid splatter or worse yet. Another color.
(I usually tape a piece of garbage bag against the wall.)

Now practice spraying against the wall to the thickness and consistency you want.
(This is where P.S.I. and Cutting may need to be adjusted.)

Once achieved, your ready to paint.
I am once who believes that layers is better than thickness.
I have seen way too many times mistakes made when too much paint is spread.
And what really sucks is the paint will dry on the outside, and not under the thick coat you have applied.

So spray nice clean thin layers.

I prefer allowing to dry per each coat. Patience is your best friend. Quit being so quick to finish and see what your masterpiece looks like.

Now after your first color is applied. Get than syringe filled with water, back out your needle, and squirt, squirt, squirt into a pot. and follow the directions on my website and here.

you should have no other color paint in your airbrush for your next color.

Remember Thinner is for laquer. NOT for water based paint!
If your painting with water based paints, Don't use thinner to clean the brush. There is a tiny chance that some thinner will be left over in the tip and when you add paint. CLOG!

But there should be NO reason why you cant cut water based paints with a water based solution. But you should not have to be at 50/50. If your at that solution mixture with your airbrush and still suffering from clogs or dry tip. then Its your airbrush, or the paint has crap in it.

again, My website for How to paint.
* RC Airbushing 101 - team3sixRC
and How to maintain your airbrush.
* Airbrush Care 101 - team3sixRC

Read it all, read it twice, read it every time you have doubt.
Don't just thumb through it. I do not make these things just to be skimmed over and then have you accuse me of wrong info. You missed something, then its user error.

Bottom line is Airbrushing can be fun and its not hard to do if you Practice Patience and proper use.

[Elmo]

Ive been disassembling the brush and taking the needle out to clean it and i fear i may have bent it. I have located a replacement and will pick one up as soon as i can. hopefully i can get the two brushes working long enough to get these two shells done. I am looking at a new Iwata, and i noticed that there is a Neo line from Iwata that is much more affordable that the $160 brush i am drooling over, but i think I'm going to hold out for a better quality brush this time. Any thoughts on the Neo line vs. a more high end single action Iwata? The createx has dried clumps in it straight from a sealed bottle purchased Tuesday and the createx thinner from the same retailer was ineffective as well. i hope it was a fluke since i had planned to switch from faskolor to createx since it is cheaper and available locally for me. Everything has been cleaned and is ready for reassembly tomorrow. Wish me luck!

[KngTgr]

I would like to see images of your work areas, to have an idea how messy it gets, any of you guys uses the kitchen table as work bench?

[Elmo]

As soon as it thaws out a little I'll try to get a pic, but its a whopping 9 degrees out right now. I spray most of my paint on the deck of my workshop to cut down on overspray and to aid in ventilation. I only have a 5x12' shop for now and i don't want to get overspray on everything when i am painting, plus i run the compressor outside to cut down on noise.
I did finally get some paint to flow through the brush. I noticed that it would flow material if it was sitting in the paint or water without a lid, but wouldn't if the lid was on the paint cup. I made a vent hole in the cap of the faskolor bottle adapter and it worked pretty well. I will change out the needle as soon as i get a chance and the weather warms up a little.

[j-bird]

Originally Posted by team3six

Airbrushes are meant to be sprayed in bursts. its like a can of paint. you cant just steady stream it and not expect clogging of the valve. your blowing a thick substance through a needle hole.

Thinning your paint is an art. depends on humidity where you are. But for some reason I have never had to thin my paint ever. Lucky I guess or the way I do it works best for me.

The other important step is air pressure. I like to spray at 35-40 P.S.I
Airbrushes that have the air control work, but are crap too. means more parts to clean after every use.

I think a lot of people forget the most important thing.

I like to use a Dental irrigation syringe.
It has a curved nozzle to get inside the cup or venturi and allows you to spray water through your airbrush.

Now I guess you can call me somewhat of an expert even though I haven't shot paint for a year now. I was certified a CFX Pro several years back by a group of my peers. I would like to think it has been from years of practice and the work I produced.

So my procedure when I cut paint was the best that I know of.
I never used Lacquer paint, I just never liked it and it was a nightmare to clean my expensive brushes. So Cretex (Which is NOT made by Faskolor) and Faskolor are water based paints. Which means you can cut them with water, or what I absolutely love is Blue Windex.

Blue Windex is great for 2 reasons.
1. Alcohol in the solution. Its just the right amount to dry paint faster. People that use straight alcohol tend to use too much, which causes Dry tip (Paint that clogs in the tip of the airbrush.) Now I said IN It just doesn't clog the tip. It also clogs inside.
2. It brightens light colors. It actually promotes a brighter color.

Which is why I use the Dental syringe.
It allows me to clean out any possible debris that may be inside the airbrush.
I also make it a habit to pull the needle back when I am clearing the tip.
once I think that the tip is clean. I check again.
But I use the needle to see. When you push the needle back into the tip. You may feel a small obstruction (A rubbery feeling) Like there is an O ring keeping the needle from going all the way against the tip (metal to metal)

this then involves you to remove the tip and use a sewing needle to scrap the inside of the needle to remove any dried paint.

Another way to help decrease any particles is to always put the cap back on your paint. But before you do, make a habit of wiping away any paint from the rim. Paint dries, paint clumps end up in paint, paint gets poured into airbrush, paint clogs airbrush. I have heard of some people pouring their paint through a nylon stocking. But From point A to Point Z if you eliminate any chance of getting the clumping to happen. then you have just made your life easier.

So, back to painting

Cut your Paint with Windex if you must.
a good start that seems to work is 10 to 1

Set compressor to 35 P.S.I. to start.

Pour paint into airbrush.

Spray against a back drop to start, NEVER start spraying into your shell first to avoid splatter or worse yet. Another color.
(I usually tape a piece of garbage bag against the wall.)

Now practice spraying against the wall to the thickness and consistency you want.
(This is where P.S.I. and Cutting may need to be adjusted.)

Once achieved, your ready to paint.
I am once who believes that layers is better than thickness.
I have seen way too many times mistakes made when too much paint is spread.
And what really sucks is the paint will dry on the outside, and not under the thick coat you have applied.

So spray nice clean thin layers.

I prefer allowing to dry per each coat. Patience is your best friend. Quit being so quick to finish and see what your masterpiece looks like.

Now after your first color is applied. Get than syringe filled with water, back out your needle, and squirt, squirt, squirt into a pot. and follow the directions on my website and here.

you should have no other color paint in your airbrush for your next color.

Remember Thinner is for laquer. NOT for water based paint!
If your painting with water based paints, Don't use thinner to clean the brush. There is a tiny chance that some thinner will be left over in the tip and when you add paint. CLOG!

But there should be NO reason why you cant cut water based paints with a water based solution. But you should not have to be at 50/50. If your at that solution mixture with your airbrush and still suffering from clogs or dry tip. then Its your airbrush, or the paint has crap in it.

again, My website for How to paint.
* RC Airbushing 101 - team3sixRC
and How to maintain your airbrush.
* Airbrush Care 101 - team3sixRC

Read it all, read it twice, read it every time you have doubt.
Don't just thumb through it. I do not make these things just to be skimmed over and then have you accuse me of wrong info. You missed something, then its user error.

Bottom line is Airbrushing can be fun and its not hard to do if you Practice Patience and proper use.

Nice write up norm I guess I'm gonna have to check out those how-to's ...just may learn something.. I'm really loving the airbrush thing and fine detail work.. And I have quickly learned thin and slow is the way to go..


J-bird

[KngTgr]

Thanks for the info, I guess I should not try and paint indoors then, LOL.

[Elmo]

Originally Posted by KngTgr

Thanks for the info, I guess I should not try and paint indoors then, LOL.

If you used faskolor paints and a brush, you would be fine. The faskolors don't smell at all, at least to me. If you are going to spray them through an airbrush though, definitely move outside or into a larger, better ventilated space. My space is very small but i do take precautions to ventilate it and to protect anything i don't want to get overspray on.

The first body came out really well. It was done in a candy lime green that i have used before, but came out a good bit paler than the previous shell. I used four coats on this shell whereas i used 9 coats on the other shell. Really happy with the way it came out though. Hope the next shell goes smoothly, once the weather straightens out that is!

[Elmo]

Had a very therapeutic day in the shop today. Changed the needle out in the Paasche and it worked perfectly. Made sure to spend a little extra time cleaning it out very thoroughly afterward as well. Tried out some new painting techniques as well. All three shells came out great and i think now I'm going to start painting two liter bottles for fun. I really hope my next painting experience goes as well as today did!

[DiggyStyle]

Originally Posted by Elmo

Ive been disassembling the brush and taking the needle out to clean it and i fear i may have bent it. I have located a replacement and will pick one up as soon as i can. hopefully i can get the two brushes working long enough to get these two shells done. I am looking at a new Iwata, and i noticed that there is a Neo line from Iwata that is much more affordable that the $160 brush i am drooling over, but i think I'm going to hold out for a better quality brush this time. Any thoughts on the Neo line vs. a more high end single action Iwata? The createx has dried clumps in it straight from a sealed bottle purchased Tuesday and the createx thinner from the same retailer was ineffective as well. i hope it was a fluke since i had planned to switch from faskolor to createx since it is cheaper and available locally for me. Everything has been cleaned and is ready for reassembly tomorrow. Wish me luck!

There's yer problem right there! ;) If you're using a single action airbrush then you might as well be using a 'rattle can'. You need to learn to use a double action brush. Then you can control airflow separate from paint flow, etc. They make a world of difference! Check out the Eclipse line from Iwata. The HP-CS is a great brush and one of the best 'bangs for the buck" out there and worth every penny. Iwata airbrushes are head and shoulders above all others on the market IMO.

Sent from my Star Trek communicator from the bowels of outer space ;)

[Elmo]

Originally Posted by KngTgr

I would like to see images of your work areas, to have an idea how messy it gets, any of you guys uses the kitchen table as work bench?

Here are a few pics of the area that i work in. Its not very big and i wish i had ten times the space, but it serves its purpose.

And some photos of the shells i have just completed. A JConcepts XFlow Raptor, a ProLine silverado and an HPI Viper GTS

[HARDKNOCKZ]

Originally Posted by DiggyStyle

Iwata airbrushes are head and shoulders above all others on the market IMO.

I ABSOLUTELY second that. With well over 20 years as a kustom painter, airbrusher and pinstriper...Ive owned em all but the ONLY airbrushes you'll find in my collection of over 50 is Iwata. You just cannot beat the quality of Iwata products and their customer support is bar none. Coast Airbrush in Anaheim, Ca is my main supplier and they literally carry ANY and EVERYTHING you could need including Iwatas full line. Go Iwata, keep em clean and lubed and they'll EASILY last a lifetime.

J.D.

[Elmo]

When tax return or birthday time rolls around my wife is wanting to get me a new brush. I told her that i wanted to look at getting an Iwata. We need to find a retailer locally that i can at least hold one and see how it feels, i don't like the most recent one i bought at all. My local Hobby Lobby has a couple of Neo's fr $55-65 but they're single action and i don't think i want to go that route. I really want a dual action so i can expand my painting repertoire.

[team3six]

Lol, look. I respect owning a good airbrush and can appreciate it. But there is no reason for a newbie having to purchase an expensive gravity feed dual action airbrush. There are several ebay ones that are just perfect for the mold artist. Then when one wants to excellent past their level. Then start looking into investing in an expensive brush.

Half of the shells on my website I painted were done with a $40 dollar airbrush.
most of the airbrushes onare ebay are knockoffs of the high end brushes.

If you can wait until I get home tonight.
I will make some suggestions.
Plus I will post up pictures and a how too on building your own airbrush booth.

Man how I wish CFX's website was like it used to be. To learn from the best was something I was very lucky to experience.

[HARDKNOCKZ]

Originally Posted by team3six

Lol, look. I respect owning a good airbrush and can appreciate it. But there is no reason for a newbie having to purchase an expensive gravity feed dual action airbrush. There are several ebay ones that are just perfect for the mold artist. Then when one wants to excellent past their level. Then start looking into investing in an expensive brush.

Half of the shells on my website I painted were done with a $40 dollar airbrush.
most of the airbrushes onare ebay are knockoffs of the high end brushes.

If you can wait until I get home tonight.
I will make some suggestions.
Plus I will post up pictures and a how too on building your own airbrush booth.

Man how I wish CFX's website was like it used to be. To learn from the best was something I was very lucky to experience.

I feel what you're sayin Norm but I just kinda figure if you're gonna spend $40 on a knock off...why not spend the extra $25 or so on the real deal? Just my way of thinking I guess. I honestly know NOTHING about the copies out there but my main questions or concerns would be parts availability and warranty. Granted...I blow a lot of paint in a week and 99.9% of it is automotive urethanes but I fairly regularly have to change needles and o-rings. Are there replacement parts for the cheapies? If so OR you dont plan on doing much beyond RC shells...then I dont see why the knock off wouldn't be OK.

I know beyond a doubt that I'm a brand whore when it comes to my shop but they ARE the tools of my trade and more than just a hobby. That doesn't mean that Norm isn't right and that the cheaper, imitation airbrushes wont work. If he's used em and can vouch for their capabilities...then maybe save the $25-$30 and buy some how-to vids, books, paint or take yer ol lady out to some grub.

J.D.

[team3six]

Don't get me wrong. What I mean is this.
As a professional a gun like this is perfect. Including if you are using it for long periods of time, or as a job. In this instance, having a warrantee and product support is great to have. this is your profession where you rely on the airbrush.
Apollo Series
$139.00
IWATA-MEDEA • Products • Airbrushes • Eclipse • HP-CS • Medea Airbrush Products
$126.00
DeVilbiss Airbrushes
$139.00

As a starter, in a market where used airbrushes are not really a job or a full time use. More of a hobby or a part time here and there thing. If one follows my care on airbrushes using non-laquer paints. a Gun should easily last a few years without even needing new O rings. Being careful with needles as to not bend them and making sure your gun is clean.
These will be just fine to start with.
PRO DUAL ACTION AIRBRUSH KIT SET GRAVITY FEED w/ 3 TIPS | eBay
$44.00
NEW GRAVITY FEED DOUBLE ACTION AIRBRUSH DUAL-ACTION KIT | eBay
$28.00
NEW 0.3mm DUAL ACTION AIRBRUSH GUN GRAVITY PAINT TATTOO | eBay
$29.00

I'm not saying these are serious replacements for the name brand or an alternative to the better airbrushes. as I earlier spoke in this thread. I prefer the Richpen and De Vilbiss to anything on the market. Personally I hate the Iwata airbrushes my self. But don't use that as a reason to not buy one. It is only my opinion.

But for a starter and as a backyard hobbist who wants to learn to shoot paint.
You very well cant go wrong just following my advise and using some no expensive guns.
They can last a long time and several parts are interchangeable with name brand equipment on the market. But you just have to do it right and care for them.

Originally Posted by HARDKNOCKZ

I feel what you're sayin Norm but I just kinda figure if you're gonna spend $40 on a knock off...why not spend the extra $25 or so on the real deal? Just my way of thinking I guess. I honestly know NOTHING about the copies out there but my main questions or concerns would be parts availability and warranty. Granted...I blow a lot of paint in a week and 99.9% of it is automotive urethanes but I fairly regularly have to change needles and o-rings. Are there replacement parts for the cheapies? If so OR you dont plan on doing much beyond RC shells...then I dont see why the knock off wouldn't be OK.

I know beyond a doubt that I'm a brand whore when it comes to my shop but they ARE the tools of my trade and more than just a hobby. That doesn't mean that Norm isn't right and that the cheaper, imitation airbrushes wont work. If he's used em and can vouch for their capabilities...then maybe save the $25-$30 and buy some how-to vids, books, paint or take yer ol lady out to some grub.

J.D.

[team3six]

BTW, here is my work area and the airbrush booth I built. Its in expensive to build, keeps paint contained up to 90%, But do not use this booth with Laquer paints as the fumes can start the fan on fire.
Filter correctly like I show, and you'll be great.
The NEW team3six work area.