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Old 08-03-2016, 12:12 AM   #41
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Default Re: New bully 2 rtr

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Originally Posted by jdmguy760 View Post
How far back are you clocking the hubs


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One tooth turned from stock..

Don't know the weight in oz. We only use normal measures here in Europe.. Lol.
Zou need to cut of a little bit to clear the hubs. Otherwise they will touch.

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Old 08-03-2016, 05:56 PM   #42
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Clocked the hubs up front a bit. Second from last.
Made some shock guards from heat shrink. Got the shock springs changed and tires vented. Drives a lot better. Have some knuckle weights on the way. Gonna trim tires soon to once I find a good pattern

Last edited by TraskRiver; 08-03-2016 at 06:54 PM.
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Old 08-03-2016, 06:33 PM   #43
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Default Re: New bully 2 rtr

TraskRiver,

What method did you go with to vent the tires? I've tried a hot soldering iron to poke holes, but that doesn't work well. I might try a leather punch.
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Old 08-03-2016, 06:52 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by TIME MACHINE View Post
TraskRiver,

What method did you go with to vent the tires? I've tried a hot soldering iron to poke holes, but that doesn't work well. I might try a leather punch.


Leather punch only man


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Old 08-03-2016, 06:54 PM   #45
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Some matte black panels from an old dvd case




I used a leather punch. Picked it up at harbor freight for 6 bucks

Last edited by TraskRiver; 08-03-2016 at 06:57 PM.
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Old 08-03-2016, 07:08 PM   #46
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Default Re: New bully 2 rtr

Ok, dumb follow up questions.

How many holes per tire? Did you punch right down the middle of the tread?

I've never had any luck doing this. In my opinion, it's worse than building shocks which I find to be tedious.
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Old 08-03-2016, 08:15 PM   #47
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Ok, dumb follow up questions.

How many holes per tire? Did you punch right down the middle of the tread?

I've never had any luck doing this. In my opinion, it's worse than building shocks which I find to be tedious.


I did 4 180 from each other with the smallest hole punch


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Old 08-03-2016, 08:19 PM   #48
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Default Re: New bully 2 rtr

Where did you get that huge heat shrink tubing from? It looks a lot thinner then what I'm used too.
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Old 08-03-2016, 09:25 PM   #49
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Look at this on eBay 17mm 66mm 2M PVC Heat Shrink Tubing Wrap LiPo Li ion Ni MH NiCd RC Battery Pack | eBay
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Old 08-03-2016, 10:10 PM   #50
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I punched 4 holes each as well. 5/64 was the size.
I only removed one side of the bead lock, then removed the foam, then pulled the tire out enough to get the leather punch in there. Took about 5 minutes per tire.
Our hobby shop had every color and size heat shrink from 1/8" up to 6" ! It is thinner. Think he said it was used for batteries. The bottom of the esc (De-cased) has some sharp solder points that stick out of the board and I did not want them poking through so i put a piece of thick black heat shrink under the circuit board before I heat shrink it with the thinner white heat shrink for protection of wearing through.

Last edited by TraskRiver; 08-03-2016 at 10:13 PM.
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Old 08-11-2016, 05:22 PM   #51
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Lots of you are already aware but just a heads up to anyone looking for a fairly cheap servo. I went with the hitec 7954sh. Ran about $77 bucks. Big upgrade from the oem servo. And, as you can see in the pic, it's shorter and sits flush with the underside of the axle. The original hung down 1/4"
A lot stronger and faster just running off rx power (5v?) Not sure how to compare it to the 7950 but for the price I think it's worth it. I picked up a cc bec for it to see how it does with 7.4v



My skins made from dvd cases did not survive some crashes and broke off in a few places
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Old 08-15-2016, 03:06 PM   #52
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Took some time. But here are the better pics of the weights





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So I picked up some rc4wd knuckle weights and I'm trying to double them up like this but running into problems. The back of the hub seats pretty tight (small gap) to the first set of weights but doesn't rub. When I attach the second set, the back of the hub doesn't seat on the hex nut but instead hits and rubs on the weights. So my first thought is a wider hex. But then the threaded shaft (not sure what you call it) will be to short and won't be able to get the wheel nut all the way on. Any suggestions?
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Old 08-15-2016, 04:00 PM   #53
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Default Re: New bully 2 rtr

I had the same problem with mine. I ground the outer knuckle down till it cleared then soldered them together.

See post #49
SDheavymetal Bully 2 Build
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Old 08-15-2016, 04:01 PM   #54
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Default Re: New bully 2 rtr

Shave off some of the weight that hits/prevents the hub from seating onto the hex. Slw hubs will work fine also and allow the wheel nut if you want to go wider.
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Old 08-15-2016, 06:58 PM   #55
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Thanks. I'll have to dig up the dremel and get to cutting. Then I won't have to use button head screws, they stick out enough to rub.
Any specific solder you used? Not sure what alloy it is.

Hubs wouldn't be a bad idea either. Could tinker around with different widths.
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Old 08-15-2016, 07:56 PM   #56
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Default Re: New bully 2 rtr

Flat head screws sit flush, no need to solder together.
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Old 08-16-2016, 09:39 PM   #57
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Not sure what it's called but I have some excessive play in the axles. Car rolls a good inch if not better back and forth when stopping. I've checked pinion mesh, all is good and play is not there. I noticed it in some other videos of these rtr bully 2. Is there a fix for that? Not sure if it's in the axle shafts, other gear mesh or where. Figured maybe someone else knows what it is. Something that needs fixed for sure
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Old 08-16-2016, 10:41 PM   #58
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Default Re: New bully 2 rtr

Its a mixture of things, but the 2 biggest to me are the axle shafts and there's a pin inside one of the gears that causes play. The axle shafts, you can't do anything (unless you made new one) but the pin inside, you can. What I did was got a 2x10mm pin and shaved it down to roughly 9.50mm and rounded both ends so it fits tight in the gear and gets rid of the play there and also makes it stronger. I now only have a little play from axle shafts. I also put 2x11mm pins on all 4 corners for the hex.
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Old 08-28-2016, 08:27 PM   #59
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Been putting some time in on the rocks. Probably 20-30 packs through it already. Very happy with the design of the chassis, running gear and link design but so far, it's looking like just about everything else Ive upgraded has been a great improvement. Obviously servo upgrade was a plus. I did some damage to one of the shocks and have recently installed some big bores (got them free) in the rear with cap mods, mini T pink springs, 30wt oil and even threw some of my soft internal springs in them for a little more reaction. Tried 60wt in the rear and didn't like the slow return so went back to 30 with the internal springs. So far, for myself I like the new adjustments. Did very well on smooth flowing bedrock at the river. Big break overs, steep climbs, drops and technical areas. But seemed to lack traction on other jagged rocks we have setup a course on. I think some CI foams are going to help a lot as these tires really get lost in holes and other areas. I did get a chance to mount up some losi boss claws with ci foams and was able to get over some lines with ease that I struggled on with the bully tires. Having a lot of fun with it. Just about got all the paint wore off the axles, ripped my panels off twice, broke a shock....taking a beating and hanging in there
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Old 08-28-2016, 08:32 PM   #60
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Where's the video?
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