Dual ESC

[aPpYe]

Originally Posted by HumboldtEF

I'm referring to esc calibration. not sure the exact reason but you can only do 1 at a time.

Cool. I think I'll go with a quick disconnect on the red ESC wire, just in case I need to recalibrate then.

[natsb]

Originally Posted by aPpYe

Cool. I think I'll go with a quick disconnect on the red ESC wire, just in case I need to recalibrate then.

Just because I like to over think things... You can use a single pole double throw switch so the receiver can be connected to either battery. This will solve the one calibration at a time issue.

Of course, being an over thinker... I would probably also use a receiver with more channels so I could flip that switch remotely. You know... to run down the batteries equally, Or something... Okay, so I have too much time on my hands.

[Minoa]

I'll have to get back with you on the exact model of the dual stick transmitter, not at home atm. It's just a cheap flysky one, less than $50 iirc. I got it from a friend who's into drones. From what I understand, even the cheap dual stick transmitters, if they don't come with springs already installed in both sticks, will come with the springs to install them.

[aPpYe]

Originally Posted by natsb

Just because I like to over think things... You can use a single pole double throw switch so the receiver can be connected to either battery. This will solve the one calibration at a time issue.

It's worth thinking about. I am thinking I really don't need gobs of runtime really. The more I think about it I am thinking I will just parallel one battery to both ESCs and get two or three batteries if I really want ...

Originally Posted by Minoa

I'll have to get back with you on the exact model of the dual stick transmitter, not at home atm. It's just a cheap flysky one, less than $50 iirc. I got it from a friend who's into drones. From what I understand, even the cheap dual stick transmitters, if they don't come with springs already installed in both sticks, will come with the springs to install them.

That's what I was hoping to hear. I see lots of stick transmitters with fancy features like telemetry and whatnot, and I am not sure I would need all that.

As I am going with dual ESC AND 4WS, I am imagining I would control each axle, both throttle and steering with one stick. Forward and reverse would be controlled by moving each stick in the direction I want to go. Is this how you drive yours? Crab steering would be both sticks going to the same side and tight 4WS turns would be done by moving the sticks in opposite directions.

I will want to make sure the receiver can handle 7.4v. A quick search online shows some cheap flysky transmitter/receiver combos that have "4.0-6.5V/DC" written on them.

[aPpYe]

So here is the complete wiring that I have settled on. I might go with two batteries in the future, but I think this is what it's gonna be to start with. The idea is to go with bullet connectors for each of the red wires coming off of the ESCs. This way I won't get careless and accidentally run both of them to the receiver. This will also allow me to calibrate each ESC individually. I may yet go with a switch, but I already have the connectors from another project.

Now all I need to do is order a battery!



I even added some vignetting! Fancy!

I'll wire it all up as neat as possible and have it ready for when the battery arrives, so hopefully one of you can tell me if this is gonna fry anything before I power it up! I labeled each component with what I actually purchased if you're interested.

I'll probably start this evening ...

[aPpYe]

Hi All,

I am hoping someone can answer a question. I am finally wiring this thing up today. All electronics are mounted and it is basically time to set up the soldering iron.

Why do the ESCs have to be calibrated one at a time, while the other is powered down? Is it because they are generally calibrated to the same trigger on a pistol type remote? As I am going to be throttling separately with dual sticks (front with the left, rear with the right), does this apply here? If it does not, then I might ditch both ESC to SERVO connectors (diagram above) and solder the red wires between ESC 1 and SERVO 1.

... Or am I way off base?

[aPpYe]

Whoops. Google photos is tricky when used to post images into forums this way. Can you see the image above now?

[aPpYe]

Crickets ...

[aPpYe]

Originally Posted by Minoa

I'll chime in with my 2 cents of opinions... I run 2 1080s paired with 2 HH 45t trailnasters, powered with cheap 1500mah 3S batteries on stock gearing. I get over 2hrs of run time and slightly faster than walking speed.

Regulars to the Bully section probably get tired of reading my posts because I always recommend "differential throttle", at least thats what the plane guys call it so that's what I go with. Using a dual stick transmitter, you can control each axle separately getting both dig and overdrive on either axle just with the sticks, no buttons, switches, or dials needed. I only bash my Bully around woods, creeks, and trails, no comps but I still use dig and overdrive often. Becomes 2nd nature after a couple runs, love it.

... Maaaybe more than a couple runs for me. From your post, I opted to do the same thing. Of course, I am running a single 850mAh 3s that certainly does not afford a two hour run. I can see myself going for more battery, perhaps even a front and rear setup like yours. Time will tell.