New RS10 XT Owner

[IQLogic]

Originally Posted by riskyjedi

I bought the zno spur plates for mine and haven't had any problems with them sense. the spur plates in my opinion are a must fix. those 70 turn motors do put out a lot of torque even for there small size.

Motors have 55 turns, not 70!

[Jakethesnake-rs10]

Hey iQlogic the motors are indeed 70t thats what it says right on the front of my rockslide box

[IQLogic]

Originally Posted by Jakethesnake-rs10

Hey iQlogic the motors are indeed 70t thats what it says right on the front of my rockslide box

So it is big fat lie

Look here

[Jakethesnake-rs10]

Lmfao iQlogic, i stand corrected then...;)

[The Jackalope]

Originally Posted by IQLogic

So it is big fat lie

Look here

[IQLogic]

[The Jackalope]

I wonder what redcat has to say about their not-really-70t motors? They were pretty torquey for a 370, and I've made use of them on boats and such. But on the Cat, they are only up to par on 3s lipo. Most guys need a little more grunt and replace em. As wheel speed goes, rc4wd 45t 540's are virtually identical, so I guess 55t sounds about right.

I don't think I could have stayed 370 sized anything. 540 just has so much bloody torque, at any turn. Trade off is though; I can't let the kid play with it. Enough power to shred itself to pieces in the wrong hands.

[Eric76]

Ok, so i got my RS10xt very fun crawler. Both stock servos died and my new servos had not arrived yet so i put in 2 hitec 645MG's work fine. Now I would like more power in this truck so I just talked with Thomas at ZNO and ordered the 540 Preassembled Kit w/ Gear cases, 2 Spur gear pin plates, Hardened steel pins and the outcry dual motor ESC. Already ordered the steel gears from amazon... It will more than likely be about 2 weeks before the preassembled kits will get to my house as they are waiting on redcat to send more gear cases. So anyone have motor suggestions (shortened 540 cans?) and link suggestions? It appears from what I have read here there are no real bolt on options for links, so I am guessing i need to decide on the motors and then do my best to bend some links that will fit and not bind?

[Eric76]

Originally Posted by Jakethesnake-rs10

Hey Eric did you notice that the page on how to set up the ESC revealed a lipo cut off setting? Also what color frame did your rs10 arrived with? Mine came with bright orange...to touch a little on your suspension question for stock links and shocks i found that moving the top shock location to under the body mounts and sliding the bottoms to the end of the hex (axle side) on the lower links works rather well. Post some pics of your mods as you go along. How well does the stock tires work with the foams out? Im running the super soft foams out of the stock rs10 tires in losi rock claws.

I did notice the E401 stated a lipo cutoff. I am just using Nimh and haven't tried lipo. With the small motors and my bad luck in the past with brushed motors I will probably stick with nimh for now, run times are fine w/5000 mah nimh. Yes orange/goldish chassis. The tires are better without foams, I also cut every other lug out of the center of my tires and took a course dremel bit to the tires. They are crap tires but bearable after doing what I did. I also read that coating the tires with wd40 can cause the rubber to break down a bit and make them softer, I may try that as well.

[The Jackalope]

Hope this helps with the big-ass-motor swap!
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/redca...mented%3B.html

[Eric76]

Originally Posted by The Jackalope

Hope this helps with the big-ass-motor swap!
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/redca...mented%3B.html

Thank you Jackalope, I have read your thread multiple times and really appreciate you taking the time to post the conversion steps. I measured last night and it seems the length of 540 motors wouldn't be an issue, but I guess the width of the ZNO plate pushes the motor to bind with the lower links? Also do you think these pinion gears will fit? https://store.rc4wd.com/10-Tooth-48-...ear_p_597.html

It also appears if the motor length is going to be a problem I will need links bent outward, which looks like that will cause steering issues. Jackalope have you changed your lower links since your right up on the 540 conversion? I can see in your final pictures the links are bent outward, how much steering did you loose, or did the wheels turn fine with no rubbing?

[The Jackalope]

Those pinions look good.
Links bent out worked well for me, and didn't bother steering too much. Minor rubbing but didn't hinder performance. The "S" bend seems to be the most popular though. My rod-ends threads are all worn out and I'm due for a rebuild. the links are floppy, don't stay in position.

I'm working on a gearcase rebuild/design. soon I'll be running Straight lower links all around, or a slight "S" bend on the rear........ I hope.

Tip- If you bend your links, you might want to move the shocks to the axle. otherwise they get real floppy.

[Eric76]

Originally Posted by The Jackalope

Those pinions look good.
Links bent out worked well for me, and didn't bother steering too much. Minor rubbing but didn't hinder performance. The "S" bend seems to be the most popular though. My rod-ends threads are all worn out and I'm due for a rebuild. the links are floppy, don't stay in position.

I'm working on a gearcase rebuild/design. soon I'll be running Straight lower links all around, or a slight "S" bend on the rear........ I hope.

Tip- If you bend your links, you might want to move the shocks to the axle. otherwise they get real floppy.

I am hoping I can come up with a design so I can keep my links straight as well, i have a few ideas for the links but not so sure about the shocks yet. Will have to get the parts in and see just how much space i have to work with... I am thinking maybe I can come straight up from the axle lower link mount with and adjustable turnbuckle (or something homemade...) and figure out ball mounts on either side for shock and straight lower links... may be a horrible idea but I am going to see how it works/if it will work... I also really like your idea of an offset gear case, that would be ideal.
Also with so much more torque what all have you broken? Driveshafts (dogbones), wheel shafts (Stub axles/output yokes) , outdrive cups (gear output yokes), etc...

[The Jackalope]

Originally Posted by Eric76

Also with so much more torque what all have you broken? Driveshafts (dogbones), wheel shafts (Stub axles/output yokes) , outdrive cups (gear output yokes), etc...

Just steering knuckles and diff pins(snapped an allen key). Debeaded a tire or two. broke rod ends on links/shocks when twisted and in a bind. Spun wheel hexes. Thats about it really. My dogbones are even original still.

[Eric76]

Originally Posted by The Jackalope

Just steering knuckles and diff pins(snapped an allen key). Debeaded a tire or two. broke rod ends on links/shocks when twisted and in a bind. Spun wheel hexes. Thats about it really. My dogbones are even original still.

Nice to know the drive train has held up well. Just for reference any specific aluminum steering knuckles and 12mm hex's that fit the RS10xt?
Do you use the optional diff:RCT-T007

And very important question if someone can please help me out with this, the new Lansu rx on the RS10xt when I install the outcry ESC (with BEC) can i plug the BEC into the fourth slot on the Lansu rx? and will the Lansu RX handle 6v/5A?

Thanks, Eric

[Jcplante]

The best thing i found for figuring out links is to buy some threaded rod from home depot. Get some revo ends and bring one with you to match up the thread. I wanna say its 6-32 but check first. Then you can just cut and bend that easily and make some mock up links. After you are happy with the way they came out make them out of stainless or titanium. I have also seen people just slide some brake line right over the rod after and keep it that way.


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[Pat M]

Originally Posted by Eric76

Nice to know the drive train has held up well. Just for reference any specific aluminum steering knuckles and 12mm hex's that fit the RS10xt?
Do you use the optional diff:RCT-T007

And very important question if someone can please help me out with this, the new Lansu rx on the RS10xt when I install the outcry ESC (with BEC) can i plug the BEC into the fourth slot on the Lansu rx? and will the Lansu RX handle 6v/5A?

Thanks, Eric

i'll take a look at mine (Outcry/BEC) tonight and get back to you, and take picture if i can

[Jcplante]

I have axial aluminum steering knuckles on mine and it was a direct fit. Its a nice upgrade too. As for the lansu rx im not sure about that because mine was the old 27mhz model so i swapped it out for a flysky gt3b.


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[Eric76]

I have another week or so before the build weekend as I am waiting on the 540 kit. My goal was to stay under 300$ and have a capable crawler, which I am barely under 300$ right now, so I really hope I don't need to purchase a new RX/TX. At some point I probably will but I am hoping I can use the Lansu for a while and still have fun with this rig. Thank you Pat for taking a look at yours really appreciate it.

Thank you for the link suggestion JC, I am unreasonably hoping I can keep the links straight somehow but in looking at pics from others that have done the 540 conversion I think I will have to bend them. First things first I need to get the 540's in there and see how much room I have to work with.

[Pat M]

OK, home and pics loaded

Battery - connected to -1: ESC (Outcry speed control) 2: Lipo alarm (set for 3 cell lipo) & 3:Outcry BEC box

From Outcry BEC box - 1:reciever & 2:ESC fan



added:

wiring to receiver goes as:
1: front servo steering
2: speed control on ESC
3: rear servo steering
4: fan on ESC & wires from BEC (spliced together before plug)