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Thread: Starting a TLT-1 project.. advice?

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Old 08-25-2005, 10:45 PM   #21
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Thats right listen to thefordmccord.... wait a gd600 in a tlt DAMN!!what u got a lathe motor runnin on a gd 600 with a 87/9 spur and pinion... lol that would be around 140:1 LOL DANG!
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Old 08-25-2005, 10:51 PM   #22
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HAHAHAHAHAHAH!!!! HOLY CRAP.. thats low!!
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Old 08-25-2005, 11:23 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badger
I agree, way to heavy duty for him anyway!

nd4spdbh, it might be the fact that you drive like a girl that you have not broke the plastic ones yet. Let me drive your truck, I will have them broke in 5 minutes.
or let Wheels drive it and he'll break it a 5 seconds. Seriously the plastic ones suck and Nd4whatever has got to drive like a pu$$y.
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Old 08-26-2005, 12:00 AM   #24
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ok rckjeep u should have seen me up at mammoth... but w/e floats ur boat


Amaxx YA ITS LOW... the gd 600 is a 2:1 gear reduction right? well if we do the math...

(40/15) x (60/30) x (30/22) x (87/9) x (2/1) it comes out to be 140.60 ... LOL

just imagine if you did a 96 tooth spurr (i have heard there is some hpi spur that u can get thats a 96tooth)and a 8 tooth pinion w/ gd600

(40/15) x (60/30) x (30/22) x (96/ 8 ) x (2/1) it comes out to be 174.54

that would be a wopin .668 mph with a 8000rpm lathe motor LOL THAT WOULD BE SO FUNNY TO WATCH... a tire get bound up and u snap an axle like a tooth pick at 1/20 of the throttle... h ehe

Last edited by nd4spdbh; 08-26-2005 at 10:28 AM.
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Old 08-26-2005, 12:27 AM   #25
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wow, thats all i have to say. oh, that, and great math layout.
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Old 08-26-2005, 10:28 AM   #26
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lol thnx...
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Old 08-26-2005, 05:17 PM   #27
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I just spent the last 20 minutes pulling and cutting glued Masher 2Ks off of Stampede wheels. I never realized what a pain it was, but it saved me $30. Which Revo links will I need?
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Old 08-27-2005, 02:16 PM   #28
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I just bought a built, but new TLT-1 for $63 shipped. So do I take the foams out of these Masher 2Ks? And they go on backwards? I wanted to check before I re-glued them.
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Old 08-27-2005, 03:47 PM   #29
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well if u glue them on forwards you can always rotate the left and right side tires to make them backwards.... do the mashers really grip better backwards? and definetly take out the foams...
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Old 08-27-2005, 03:56 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nd4spdbh
well if u glue them on forwards you can always rotate the left and right side tires to make them backwards.... do the mashers really grip better backwards? and definetly take out the foams...
I have no idea, but it seems like a lot of people have them on backwards. Good point about swapping them. I'm totally new to the crawling thing, so I apologize if people get sick of all my questions. ;)
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Old 08-27-2005, 05:07 PM   #31
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The mashers do have better bite when mounted backwards. And let me give you a few money saving tips!
For front links i used the stock chassis braces with the 6mm OD aluminum spacers on each end with a 3mm screw (head cut off) and traxxas ball ends.
The upper links are rustler steering links mounted to a stock tlt link mount

For the rear i made custom high clearance links out of 1/4" aluminum tube with .049" side wall and some 4mm screws and kyosho 6.8 ball ends...cost me only a few dollars. The top links are stampede steering links.
Also You can see the 1/4" aluminum tube i used to space the 2.5 maxx center drive shaft so that it wouldn't rub on the spur.


NOTE: THESE LINKS ARE SET UP 45/55 AND WILL ONLY WORK IF YOUR CHASSIS IS LONG ENOUGH TO GIVE A PROPER WHEELBASE.

Heres a bottom view showing everything

The chassis was custom built by myself and cost me a few dollars for the aluminum. It was all made from only a hacksaw, drill, and a tube bender!

the total came to $160 and it is a super capable rig and very fun to drive!

P.S. Maxx shafts highly suggested. they are pretty much bullet proof on a tlt!
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Old 08-28-2005, 11:26 AM   #32
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Thanks for the tips. I'll keep those in mind. I also need to figure out what shock oil/springs to run.
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Old 08-28-2005, 11:41 AM   #33
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i use 40 wt shock oil and some baby blue springs and pede/rustler rear shocks ( they are the same size as the maxx shocks..)
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Old 08-29-2005, 02:35 PM   #34
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i like to use pede front shocks because they are lighter than the rear shocks. so pretty much any front or rear 1/10 stadium truck shock or maxx shocks. those are the popular sizes.
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Old 08-29-2005, 04:29 PM   #35
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y because pede front shocks are 1/2" shorter.... less travle less artic...
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Old 08-29-2005, 09:34 PM   #36
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they give me plenty of articulation. Remember too much articulation is bad. Also you can improve articulation (if you have to) by mounting the shocks in different spots or to the links. ;) no big deal
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Old 08-30-2005, 09:32 AM   #37
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so very true... but they way i have my chassis setup i have no extra matieral to hook them to lol...
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Old 08-30-2005, 11:36 AM   #38
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yeah you either have to design your chassis with several mounting spots or design it to use pede fronts. Like my chassis only has one mounting spot for my shocks but it was designed for pede front shocks so it works. The aluminum tube really limits mounting options but i like it.
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Old 08-30-2005, 12:27 PM   #39
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so true.... lol i designed mine for the rear... but its what ever works for ya...
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Old 08-30-2005, 01:25 PM   #40
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The biggest issue with shock choice is making sure there's a good selection of spring rates that'll fit the spring retainer/cup.
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