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08-30-2005, 01:51 PM
| #41 |
| Rock Crawler Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Dude on my dirt bike in SoCal!!!
Posts: 949
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i know for a fact that traxxas's XX long shocks will accept any traxxas big bore springs, losi springs and mabey associated springs...
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08-30-2005, 04:42 PM
| #42 |
| RCC Addict Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: ORegon
Posts: 1,002
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yeah losi front springs fit pretty well on traxxas xl shocks (pede fronts). I run losi yellows. they were free too! I found them on the ground at the cactus classic in AZ a year and a half ago!  |
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08-30-2005, 04:47 PM
| #43 |
| Rock Crawler Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Dude on my dirt bike in SoCal!!!
Posts: 949
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and losi truck (XXX T style) rear shock springs will work for pede rear shocks (maxx size)
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08-30-2005, 05:43 PM
| #44 |
| RCC Addict Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: ORegon
Posts: 1,002
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...so it all works out! lol. we have been focusing on shocks for a while now. maybe does the creator of the thread want to say anything?
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09-01-2005, 01:32 PM
| #45 | |
| Pebble Pounder Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Stockdale, PA
Posts: 158
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09-01-2005, 03:12 PM
| #46 |
| RCC Addict Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: ORegon
Posts: 1,002
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look fine to me. pretty much any link between 4 and 5 inches should do just fine. It all depends on how you build the chassis.
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09-01-2005, 03:41 PM
| #47 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: May 2005 Location: Auburn
Posts: 360
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Yeah links arnt a fixed item unless there is commonality. Which in the crawler world it is damn near non existant. Ive run a wide range of custom links on my truck alone. It depends on the length your shooting for, the stance, the offset ( length of front to rear 40/60 split seems to be getting popular. And all of these factors have lead me to make my own links every time. A length of solit alum rod a drill and a cheap 4-40 ot 6-32 thread tap ( about 9$ with tapping tool) Some stainless long screws ( threaded rod works if you can find it stainless No mild steel itll rust) And a mess of Traxxas link ends. Oh yeah dont use the stock tlt ends if you have already threaded the things into the metric threaded rod. I also run a set of 119mm steering rods off a tmaxx ( I think thats thier use) For upper links. Mainly cause I bought em in the early days I thought I had to use premade links. Either way hope this winded post helps some lol |
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09-01-2005, 05:53 PM
| #48 |
| Pebble Pounder Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Stockdale, PA
Posts: 158
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I'm going to be hacking the stock chassis for now. I wanted to make sure they're similar to the 108/96 links that were originally recommended. I'm also going to run the Ofna RTR wheels.
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09-01-2005, 11:14 PM
| #49 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: May 2005 Location: Auburn
Posts: 360
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If you have everything there you can get your measurments with a ruller Just lay out the WB you want then place the centerline of the chassis and get the height to where you want it in relation to the axle and set the axle angle ( usualy 10 to 15deg pointin gup to the tranny to prevent shaft drag) and have at it. How you plan to mount the links matters too if itll tri at the chassis or axle. |
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09-02-2005, 07:04 PM
| #50 |
| RCC Addict Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: ORegon
Posts: 1,002
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yes thats how i did mine. I layed everything out and measured for links and then cut my own. Its cheaper to make your own but if you want you can buy them too because they are made in a wide range of lengths. Also the advantage of making links is that you can make high clearance links.
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09-03-2005, 04:48 PM
| #51 |
| Pebble Pounder Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Stockdale, PA
Posts: 158
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Do the TLT-1 axles require any shimming or anything?
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09-03-2005, 05:02 PM
| #52 |
| Rock Crawler Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Dude on my dirt bike in SoCal!!!
Posts: 949
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nope
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09-03-2005, 05:15 PM
| #53 |
| Pebble Pounder Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Stockdale, PA
Posts: 158
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Ok, cool. I still need to figure out which Revo links I need to get instead of the 108/96 T-Maxx links.
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09-04-2005, 06:46 PM
| #54 |
| RCC Addict Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: ORegon
Posts: 1,002
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why are you so fixed on revo links? just make them. get that k&s 1/4" aluminum tube with .049" sidewall from tower and some long 4mm screws (as long as they get) and then some kyosho 6.8 mm ball ends and flanged balls. Much easier to adapt to your truck then revo links. and very easy to make. all you need is a hacksaw and a tap.
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09-06-2005, 12:17 AM
| #55 | |
| Pebble Pounder Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Stockdale, PA
Posts: 158
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09-06-2005, 08:31 PM
| #56 |
| RCC Addict Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: ORegon
Posts: 1,002
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the 4mm screws are what connect the rod to the tube. You'll need a 4mm tap. You dont have to use the kyosho ends. I just like them cause they are beefy. But revo ends will also work. here are direct links to make it easier: k&s 1/4" tube (1 set is plenty for a whole truck): http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXS021&P=ML long 4mm screws (need 2): http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXHTZ5&P=7 revo rod ends (unfortunately you have to buy 2..and have alot left over): http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXHGB7&P=ML Tap handle: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXK377&P=ML Tap bit: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXK374&P=7 oooo...well i realized it comes out more expensive...but these are lighter and more custom friendly and the tap you will use forever soa 3mm tap is a good idea also (very commnly used). Last edited by RCMFMaxxMan; 09-06-2005 at 08:35 PM. |
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09-06-2005, 08:52 PM
| #57 | |
| Pebble Pounder Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Stockdale, PA
Posts: 158
| Quote:
Thanks for the info. Do I just tap the holes that are already in the tubes? Or will I need to drill them out first? | |
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09-06-2005, 09:18 PM
| #58 |
| RCC Addict Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: ORegon
Posts: 1,002
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the tubes are already the right size for a 4mm tap...no drilling needed ;)
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09-06-2005, 09:26 PM
| #59 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: May 2005 Location: Auburn
Posts: 360
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O_o metric um cheaper go to ACE buy 4-40 stainless thread. This will thread into most near 4-40 sized ball ends. Unless your threading into metal. Or if you want beef go 6-32. The coarser thread will be easier to cut if your going with hollow links. The metric thread used on the tlt rods is larger by about .01mm compared to 4-40. But finding a 4-40 tap is going to be SO much easier to locate and cheaper to buy 3$ vs 20$+ As well make sure to get a tap tool Dont chuck the thing into a drill. And get some oil or wd to lube your cuts. When your tappig cut in then back off and repeat Once you get far enough in youll have to totaly back out to clear the shavings and stuff. If you dont you can snap off the tap tip in the alum. I have done my links diffrently I use solid stock then drill out the link hole then tap. This enables me to run some really beefy rods and not worry about bendage etc thing is centering the holes is a pain in the but when your working on such a small surface lol. Anyhoo hope this helps some. here is a pic of the tap tool thingy. BTW the alum rod hollow and solid can be gotten from a hobby shoppe or even the ace hardware. If not Lowes or home repo will have the stuff in some form. JUST make sure to get stainless HDW mild steel wont do. Itll rust up in no time.  Last edited by Madkoifish; 09-06-2005 at 09:27 PM. Reason: stupid typo ; vs : |
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09-07-2005, 09:52 PM
| #60 |
| Pebble Pounder Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Stockdale, PA
Posts: 158
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What size drill bit do I use to drill the hole through the TLT-1 pinion shafts for the Stampede yokes?
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