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Old 08-25-2005, 03:18 PM   #1
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Default Starting a TLT-1 project.. advice?

I'm starting from scratch. Here's what I have so far. I'll be ordering a TLT-1 kit soon.

Stampede tranny
Stampede shocks
LRP A.I. Automatic Super Reverse ESC
Some 5x11 bearings
Set of Masher 2Ks

I'm not worried about a radio, batteries, etc. right now. Maybe I can even use the stock motor for now?

Here's what I'll be ordering.

Ofna wheels
Traxxas 108mm and 96mm links
Traxxas yokes
Delrin top gear
Aluminum idler
Bearings (however many more I need)

I'd like to buy a Bulu2 chassis (when/if they become available again), but can I still use those Traxxas links like nd4spdbh and thefordmccord did, but with a Bulu2? Or any other chassis for that matter?
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Old 08-25-2005, 04:22 PM   #2
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if you are using the pede sliders get the steel yokes. dont even waste your time on the plastic ones.
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Old 08-25-2005, 05:07 PM   #3
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WHY THE HELL DOES EVERYONE ***** ABOUT THE PLASTIC YOKES!!! i have had the same plastic ones for the past 2 months and i have put my truck through HELL and they hold up just fine... all i did was drill a hole through the pinion shaft and used the long grub skrew..

N e ways ya u can use the traxxas links for any chassis... i actually just made a new chassis for my truck but the stock plates work really well...

Also y aluminum idler and derlin top gear... the stock set up works just fine with the plastic idler and metal topgear... i have had my tranny for 2 months and havnt striped a single thing...

For da chassis DONT BUY A BULU... make your own after u have fun hacking up the stock chassis plates... ill get you measurments on my new chassis...

and thanks for givin me and thefordmccord credit

Oh hey heres some links to my truck if you havnt seen them yet

My crawler just 'finished' ...56k nightmare
New Chassis For MY crawler...

and thefordmccords truck
Well, my Stampede came in... (56K Warming)
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Old 08-25-2005, 05:37 PM   #4
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Nothing is really set in stone right now except for the obvious, like the TLT-1 kit.

I didn't plan on getting the steel yokes because you said you never had any problems with them. I figured I'd drive the hell out of them and only replace them if I see them becoming a problem, just like you said. Did you try them out before you drilled them out? And did you drill the shafts on the tranny end and the axle end? I'd probably pick up a couple sets of steel yokes if I could get a good deal on them, but that's probably the only way right now.

I've never fabricated/modified anything like a chassis, so I didn't want to screw anything up. The only things I have to work with are a Dremel and a drill. I probably won't worry about the chassis for a while, so I'll have some time to plan it all out.

You two's trucks are what gives me hope that I can build a decent truck without spending a ton of cash, so I probably will end up hacking up the stock chassis for now. I'm not looking to compete or anything. I just want something to bash around with.

Quote:
Originally Posted by nd4spdbh
WHY THE HELL DOES EVERYONE ***** ABOUT THE PLASTIC YOKES!!! i have had the same plastic ones for the past 2 months and i have put my truck through HELL and they hold up just fine... all i did was drill a hole through the pinion shaft and used the long grub skrew..

N e ways ya u can use the traxxas links for any chassis... i actually just made a new chassis for my truck but the stock plates work really well...

Also y aluminum idler and derlin top gear... the stock set up works just fine with the plastic idler and metal topgear... i have had my tranny for 2 months and havnt striped a single thing...

For da chassis DONT BUY A BULU... make your own after u have fun hacking up the stock chassis plates... ill get you measurments on my new chassis...

and thanks for givin me and thefordmccord credit

Oh hey heres some links to my truck if you havnt seen them yet

My crawler just 'finished' ...56k nightmare
New Chassis For MY crawler...

and thefordmccords truck
Well, my Stampede came in... (56K Warming)
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Old 08-25-2005, 06:08 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nd4spdbh
WHY THE HELL DOES EVERYONE ***** ABOUT THE PLASTIC YOKES!!! i have had the same plastic ones for the past 2 months and i have put my truck through HELL and they hold up just fine... all i did was drill a hole through the pinion shaft and used the long grub skrew..

N e ways ya u can use the traxxas links for any chassis... i actually just made a new chassis for my truck but the stock plates work really well...

Also y aluminum idler and derlin top gear... the stock set up works just fine with the plastic idler and metal topgear... i have had my tranny for 2 months and havnt striped a single thing...

For da chassis DONT BUY A BULU... make your own after u have fun hacking up the stock chassis plates... ill get you measurments on my new chassis...

and thanks for givin me and thefordmccord credit

Oh hey heres some links to my truck if you havnt seen them yet

My crawler just 'finished' ...56k nightmare
New Chassis For MY crawler...

and thefordmccords truck
Well, my Stampede came in... (56K Warming)


okay okay, i admit it. the steel yokes are simply too heavy duty...
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Old 08-25-2005, 06:55 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badhoopty


okay okay, i admit it. the steel yokes are simply too heavy duty...
I agree, way to heavy duty for him anyway!

nd4spdbh, it might be the fact that you drive like a girl that you have not broke the plastic ones yet. Let me drive your truck, I will have them broke in 5 minutes.
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Old 08-25-2005, 07:03 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badger
Let me drive your truck, I will have them broke in 5 minutes.
What do you think about the delrin top gear and aluminum idler?
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Old 08-25-2005, 08:29 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badger
I agree, way to heavy duty for him anyway!

nd4spdbh, it might be the fact that you drive like a girl that you have not broke the plastic ones yet. Let me drive your truck, I will have them broke in 5 minutes.

LOL ur runny... an idler gear or a ring and pinion gear would go b 4 the little white yokes...
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Old 08-25-2005, 08:30 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badger
I agree, way to heavy duty for him anyway!

nd4spdbh, it might be the fact that you drive like a girl that you have not broke the plastic ones yet. Let me drive your truck, I will have them broke in 5 minutes.

You drove my truck for 15 minutes and didn't break anything. Even with all the backflips AND plastic yokes.

Get the plastic yokes, they're $4 or so, if they break, you're not out much and the drilled holes will line up with the steel replacements.

Also, revo links are cheaper than e/tmaxx links, so get those instead of the 108/96 links. No need for upgraded tranny gears. Maybe the steel idler if your plastic one breaks. I just bought two plastic idlers and haven't needed to replace the first one yet.

Your idea sounds good so far. I suggest modding your stock chassis. From the looks of everyone else whose done it, its not too hard to do (two holes and little trimming).
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Old 08-25-2005, 08:35 PM   #10
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u go pwt...

i like revo links but they get all scratched up and the anodizing comes off and makes them look ****ty... but what ever floats ur boat..
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Old 08-25-2005, 08:39 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nd4spdbh
u go pwt...

i like revo links but they get all scratched up and the anodizing comes off and makes them look ****ty... but what ever floats ur boat..

they're also thicker, have bigger/beefier/flexier rod ends and $3 cheaper per set of two.
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Old 08-25-2005, 08:40 PM   #12
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If your worried about the plastic gears and yokes, boil the buggers. Itll strengthen them. I usualy dye my nylon bits while im at it too. Havent had a issue yet with the nylon yokes on the tranny side since I boiled them. The axle side I twisted 2 sets off the pinion. Thing is I was running a 19turn on a tiny pinion and the other time I was running a old stock motor. Best bet to save the yokes is to 1 angle the axles so they dont drag on rocks or get wedged in craggy stuff. I think this is how I tore off the nylon yokes. The metal yokes are worth the $$ BUT you need to grind or mill the flange off of them ( you have to do the same to ylon yokes but a exacto can do the job) OH and avoid using the set screws use the pin screws.
Shafts do whatever you want just keep in mind the larger shafts (revo maxx ) need a small spur gear. The standard spurs wll get in the way of the tranny side yokes.
BEST advice is to look at others build threads, basicly blow a day or 2 reading all the backloged threads. Its worth the knowledge you gain. And saves time bodging stuff together that others found unworkable.
good Luck and have fun!
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Old 08-25-2005, 08:41 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nd4spdbh
u go pwt...

i like revo links but they get all scratched up and the anodizing comes off and makes them look ****ty... but what ever floats ur boat..
A little oven cleaner, scotch brite and elbow grease will take the anodizing off.
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Old 08-25-2005, 08:42 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nd4spdbh
LOL ur runny... an idler gear or a ring and pinion gear would go b 4 the little white yokes...
why the heck ar you flaming me for saying steel yokes are tougher than plastic ones? i'm glad your 2 month old low budget project has been to your liking, but all the same it aint like you are all that to be flaming me for having a different approach than you. jebus...
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Old 08-25-2005, 08:51 PM   #15
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Well, then that saves me a few bucks.

Are these the Revo links I'd want? Or let me know which ones you recommend.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXHFV9&P=Z

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXHFV7&P=Z

Quote:
Originally Posted by Plays_with_Toys
You drove my truck for 15 minutes and didn't break anything. Even with all the backflips AND plastic yokes.

Get the plastic yokes, they're $4 or so, if they break, you're not out much and the drilled holes will line up with the steel replacements.

Also, revo links are cheaper than e/tmaxx links, so get those instead of the 108/96 links. No need for upgraded tranny gears. Maybe the steel idler if your plastic one breaks. I just bought two plastic idlers and haven't needed to replace the first one yet.

Your idea sounds good so far. I suggest modding your stock chassis. From the looks of everyone else whose done it, its not too hard to do (two holes and little trimming).
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Old 08-25-2005, 08:53 PM   #16
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Are those revo rods the ones that have these larger than 6/32 dai?? I snagged some ball ends and thought they were 6/32 but they are much larger.
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Old 08-25-2005, 08:54 PM   #17
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that depends on if u want the red anodized ones..
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Old 08-25-2005, 08:55 PM   #18
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I'm running the 2.5 Maxx shafts on my TLT. It's a little more work to bolt them up, but they're light and bulletproof for use with TLT axles.

Here's a link:
Shaggin' Wagon................The Begining of Stage 2
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Old 08-25-2005, 09:05 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badhoopty
why the heck ar you flaming me for saying steel yokes are tougher than plastic ones? i'm glad your 2 month old low budget project has been to your liking, but all the same it aint like you are all that to be flaming me for having a different approach than you. jebus...

lol sry man didnt mean to flame i was just sayin in my experience the other parts would go first...

hey about links its what ever works...
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Old 08-25-2005, 09:06 PM   #20
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I have been running my tlt with the plastic yokes since march, and I just broke one this past weekend. It wasn't even the yoke on the axle, it was the one on the tranny side. You can ask syco or heavy, I don't cut the tlt any slack and I have a gd600 in it too.
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