RCCrawler Forums

JohnRobHolmes · 03-22-2006, 11:25 AM

If you want to take it any farther, you should try a smaller battery pack. IB 1200's or 1400's would be perfect. Beyond that a new chassis is about the only direction you can take it.

microgoat · 03-22-2006, 11:33 AM

Yep, a lighter battery will do wonders for your CG. Look into a HobbyZone Firebird Commander airplane battery, theyre 900 mAH, and about $19 at your LHS, but you'll have to change the plug. It's small enough to mount on the upper links, too. Looks like a shrink-wrapped six-pack.

www.hobbyzonesports.com if you want to shop online.

Another thing that will really help is a set of axle wideners. Not only does it help stability, but it help keep the tires from rubbing the links at full lock.

oIIIIIo · 03-25-2006, 07:45 PM

Now that I've got this one pretty much done, I'm tinkering on another build using a Losi XXX tranny. Pretty similar configuration with the drive cups. One little tidbit I discovered tonight is that if you heat the hardened outdrives with a propane torch until they start to turn red, it makes them very easy to drill. The heat takes the temper out of the steel, but they are hardened to prevent wear from the dogbones, and if you're mounting sliders the hardness is not required.

rockwerks · 05-09-2006, 08:30 AM

nice job......got any details on how you mounted the drive shafts to the stealt tranny?

oIIIIIo · 05-10-2006, 08:09 AM

The details are in the first page of this thread. I didn't snap any pics, but it really was quite simple. One tip though, these outdrives are extremely hard steel. It is a lot easier to cut and drill them if you take some of the temper out of them by first heating them with a propane torch until they start to turn orange then let them cool slowly.

Trikster · 05-19-2006, 10:15 AM

Your build is inspiring. I have been thinking about putting together a crawler using the stock chassis and I think your build is the ticket. What are your lower links? They look store bought, not made. What length are they etc. I wish you had more pics of the modified tranny, my brain is having trouble visualizing how you made everything work.

oIIIIIo · 05-19-2006, 06:11 PM

The lower links are Revo push rods shortened an inch or so. I originally built it to have a wheelbase of about 12.5", but have since shortened it to a little over 11.5" to give a more scale fit on my Early Bronco body.

Bobtail74 · 05-19-2006, 11:59 PM

I have a TLT and a Stealth trans here... are you saying the drive yokes for your shafts are big enough to go OVER the Stealth dog bone cup outdrives? I have never had my hands on anything but the Stampede sliders and they are not near big enough to go over the stock stealth cups. Another brain block I am having is how to lock a ball diff, the Stampede has a gear diff and that is much easier to figure out how to lock.

rockwerks · 05-20-2006, 07:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bobtail74

I have a TLT and a Stealth trans here... are you saying the drive yokes for your shafts are big enough to go OVER the Stealth dog bone cup outdrives? I have never had my hands on anything but the Stampede sliders and they are not near big enough to go over the stock stealth cups. Another brain block I am having is how to lock a ball diff, the Stampede has a gear diff and that is much easier to figure out how to lock.

yes they fit over..........once you drill them out. I have it in my TLT.......also to lock is simple remove the balls and add a lil CA and retighten locked forever. no brainer

oIIIIIo · 05-20-2006, 08:41 AM

I used T-Maxx yokes on mine. The Stealth outdrives easily fit inside the drilled out yokes. I also shortened the outdrives by aobut 1/4" so that I could make the driveshafts as long as possible and make for a cleaner install.

I don't know if all versions of the Stealth use the same diameter outdrives, but on the B4/T4 version that I used, the outdrives have a diameter significantly smaller than the Losi XXX tranny.

smokinubyrc · 05-20-2006, 09:26 AM

it almoast looks like a bender sw2 if it had more curvs and a lay down tranny clean build though i might take ur idea if my scaler dont work out

christoleher · 06-14-2006, 10:46 PM

Excellent work. The insturctions werent to clear on how to intall maxx shafts to the stealth. Can you still load some detailed pictures and detailed instructions.

maxxa87 · 06-15-2006, 12:15 AM

Did you modify the chassis any besides drilling more holes and making the slot in the side bigger? It looks like you cut some off of the bottom too. If you did how much did you cut? Only bad thing about a box stock tlt, the chassis hangs way too low.

run2jeepn · 06-15-2006, 12:26 AM

Ya he cut off a little over an inch off the bottom. See where he has his lower links mounted. Those are factory holes. I just got done doing this to mine aswell.

maxxa87 · 06-15-2006, 01:05 AM

Good. I was planning on buying a chassis when I get mine because I thought the stock one was crap but then I seen what this guys done and i'm going to try this first. Sounds like the same thing I did on my Nylint before I filled the front axle with mud and it quit working.

cartronicshn · 06-15-2006, 05:13 AM

very nice set up, hopefully i will be able to do more or less the same mods to my penguin chassis

oIIIIIo · 06-16-2006, 06:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by christoleher

Excellent work. The insturctions werent to clear on how to intall maxx shafts to the stealth. Can you still load some detailed pictures and detailed instructions.

Sorry, I didn't snap any pics of that when I put it together and I'm not really interested at pulling it apart at this point to snap pics. It's pretty simple though.

Take apart the tranny and remove the outdrives from the diff. You have to do this to lock the diff anyway, so not really any extra work.
Put the outdrive in a vice and heat the end with a propane torch until it starts to turn orange. This will remove some of the hardness from the steel. It's a real bugger to cut or drill if you skip this step.
Using a hack saw, cut approx. 1/4" off the end of the outdrive in order to keep the length to a minimum.
Measure the diameter of the outdrive and using the same size drill bit, drill out the center of the Traxxas yoke so that it fits over the outdrive. It helps to start with a smaller bit and work up to the correct size in order to keep the hole centered.
With the yoke in the correct place on the outdrive, locate the hole in the yoke for the cross pin and mark it on the outdrive.
Remove the yoke and drill a hole through the outdrive the correct size for a snug fit of the crosspin.
Lock the diff by whichever method turns your crank and put the tranny back together.
Put the yokes over the outdrives and secure them in place with the cross pins.

I don't think I can spell it out any clearer than that.

Quote:

Originally Posted by maxxa87

Did you modify the chassis any besides drilling more holes and making the slot in the side bigger? It looks like you cut some off of the bottom too. If you did how much did you cut? Only bad thing about a box stock tlt, the chassis hangs way too low.

That's exactly it. Like someone said, I just cut about 1.25" off the bottom of the chassis and mounted the lower links in the factory holes intended for the upper links. I opened up the original slot cut in the chassis to fit the Stealth motor plate and drilled a few holes to mount the tranny, upper links and shocks.

christoleher · 06-17-2006, 02:10 AM

I cant seem to find the revo yoke that goes on the axle. Can you give me part numbers. Thanks and sorry for the noob question

oIIIIIo · 06-17-2006, 05:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by christoleher

I cant seem to find the revo yoke that goes on the axle. Can you give me part numbers. Thanks and sorry for the noob question

I'm not 100% sure, but I think I used these ones...

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXMJG9

Traxxas part #5458X

I used these because that's what I had. The standard T-Maxx yokes would work as well.

TNX17 · 06-17-2006, 10:33 PM

do you have a part number on the t-maxx shafts that you connect to the yokes? looking to do this with a Losi XXX tranny that i got laying around

06-17-2006, 02:10 AM	#38
christoleher Pebble Pounder Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: San Francisco Posts: 123	I cant seem to find the revo yoke that goes on the axle. Can you give me part numbers. Thanks and sorry for the noob question Last edited by christoleher; 06-17-2006 at 04:11 PM.

03-22-2006, 11:25 AM	#21
JohnRobHolmes owner, Holmes Hobbies LLC Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Volt up! Gear down! Posts: 20,290	If you want to take it any farther, you should try a smaller battery pack. IB 1200's or 1400's would be perfect. Beyond that a new chassis is about the only direction you can take it.

03-22-2006, 11:33 AM	#22
microgoat I wanna be Dave Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Cleveland, OH Posts: 8,009	Yep, a lighter battery will do wonders for your CG. Look into a HobbyZone Firebird Commander airplane battery, theyre 900 mAH, and about $19 at your LHS, but you'll have to change the plug. It's small enough to mount on the upper links, too. Looks like a shrink-wrapped six-pack. www.hobbyzonesports.com if you want to shop online. Another thing that will really help is a set of axle wideners. Not only does it help stability, but it help keep the tires from rubbing the links at full lock.

03-25-2006, 07:45 PM	#23
oIIIIIo Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Canada Posts: 181	Now that I've got this one pretty much done, I'm tinkering on another build using a Losi XXX tranny. Pretty similar configuration with the drive cups. One little tidbit I discovered tonight is that if you heat the hardened outdrives with a propane torch until they start to turn red, it makes them very easy to drill. The heat takes the temper out of the steel, but they are hardened to prevent wear from the dogbones, and if you're mounting sliders the hardness is not required.

05-09-2006, 08:30 AM	#24
rockwerks I wanna be Dave Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: FLAGSTAFF Posts: 3,728	nice job......got any details on how you mounted the drive shafts to the stealt tranny?

05-10-2006, 08:09 AM	#25
oIIIIIo Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Canada Posts: 181	The details are in the first page of this thread. I didn't snap any pics, but it really was quite simple. One tip though, these outdrives are extremely hard steel. It is a lot easier to cut and drill them if you take some of the temper out of them by first heating them with a propane torch until they start to turn orange then let them cool slowly.

05-19-2006, 10:15 AM	#26
Trikster RCC Addict Join Date: May 2006 Location: Roseville Posts: 1,469	Your build is inspiring. I have been thinking about putting together a crawler using the stock chassis and I think your build is the ticket. What are your lower links? They look store bought, not made. What length are they etc. I wish you had more pics of the modified tranny, my brain is having trouble visualizing how you made everything work.

05-19-2006, 06:11 PM	#27
oIIIIIo Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Canada Posts: 181	The lower links are Revo push rods shortened an inch or so. I originally built it to have a wheelbase of about 12.5", but have since shortened it to a little over 11.5" to give a more scale fit on my Early Bronco body.

05-19-2006, 11:59 PM	#28
Bobtail74 Pebble Pounder Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Milan, IL QCA (rural) Posts: 126	I have a TLT and a Stealth trans here... are you saying the drive yokes for your shafts are big enough to go OVER the Stealth dog bone cup outdrives? I have never had my hands on anything but the Stampede sliders and they are not near big enough to go over the stock stealth cups. Another brain block I am having is how to lock a ball diff, the Stampede has a gear diff and that is much easier to figure out how to lock.

05-20-2006, 08:41 AM	#30
oIIIIIo Pebble Pounder Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Canada Posts: 181	I used T-Maxx yokes on mine. The Stealth outdrives easily fit inside the drilled out yokes. I also shortened the outdrives by aobut 1/4" so that I could make the driveshafts as long as possible and make for a cleaner install. I don't know if all versions of the Stealth use the same diameter outdrives, but on the B4/T4 version that I used, the outdrives have a diameter significantly smaller than the Losi XXX tranny.

05-20-2006, 09:26 AM	#31
smokinubyrc I wanna be Dave Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Crawler practice! Posts: 2,104	it almoast looks like a bender sw2 if it had more curvs and a lay down tranny clean build though i might take ur idea if my scaler dont work out

Sponsored Links

06-14-2006, 10:46 PM	#32
christoleher Pebble Pounder Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: San Francisco Posts: 123	Excellent work. The insturctions werent to clear on how to intall maxx shafts to the stealth. Can you still load some detailed pictures and detailed instructions.

06-15-2006, 12:15 AM	#33
maxxa87 Quarry Creeper Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Louisville, KY Posts: 361	Did you modify the chassis any besides drilling more holes and making the slot in the side bigger? It looks like you cut some off of the bottom too. If you did how much did you cut? Only bad thing about a box stock tlt, the chassis hangs way too low.

06-15-2006, 12:26 AM	#34
run2jeepn I wanna be Dave Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: USA Posts: 11,196	Ya he cut off a little over an inch off the bottom. See where he has his lower links mounted. Those are factory holes. I just got done doing this to mine aswell.

06-15-2006, 01:05 AM	#35
maxxa87 Quarry Creeper Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Louisville, KY Posts: 361	Good. I was planning on buying a chassis when I get mine because I thought the stock one was crap but then I seen what this guys done and i'm going to try this first. Sounds like the same thing I did on my Nylint before I filled the front axle with mud and it quit working.

06-15-2006, 05:13 AM	#36
cartronicshn I wanna be Dave Join Date: May 2006 Location: HONDURAS...ROCK HEAVEN Posts: 5,076	very nice set up, hopefully i will be able to do more or less the same mods to my penguin chassis

06-17-2006, 10:33 PM	#40
TNX17 Newbie Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: New York Posts: 9	do you have a part number on the t-maxx shafts that you connect to the yokes? looking to do this with a Losi XXX tranny that i got laying around

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Thread: Stealth tranny in modded TLT chassis...