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Old 07-04-2007, 07:35 PM   #21
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The 5955 only travels 90*, where the 5995 will go 180* and need a radio with EPA's. I spent all my $$$ on servos so im stuck with a modded TQ3 haha.
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Old 07-05-2007, 09:18 AM   #22
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Verry cool looking rig.
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Old 07-05-2007, 08:18 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dittohead View Post
The 5955 only travels 90*, where the 5995 will go 180* and need a radio with EPA's. I spent all my $$$ on servos so im stuck with a modded TQ3 haha.

word man thx, I just picked up a 5955 at my LHS as well as a 1400mah reciever pack. I think i also figured out that the motor was trippin on the fact that i had a 6mm hole in the shaft and 5mm output on the R2. the uneven rotating mass messed with the comutation of the motor. I may have to take back my statement about the 3014 in a TXT!
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Old 07-05-2007, 08:55 PM   #24
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hey, if run 2x 5955's and a 1400mah reciever pack what voltage reg do you guys recomend? I assume i need at least 7Amps, is this true?
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Old 07-05-2007, 10:37 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dittohead View Post
The 5955 only travels 90*, where the 5995 will go 180* and need a radio with EPA's. I spent all my $$$ on servos so im stuck with a modded TQ3 haha.
Looks like the 5955 only turns 60 deg andI also found out that 5995 pulls a ton more current. I think the sick set up would be a 5995 up front and the 5955 in the rear.
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Old 07-06-2007, 09:14 AM   #26
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Looks like the 5955 only turns 60 deg andI also found out that 5995 pulls a ton more current. I think the sick set up would be a 5995 up front and the 5955 in the rear.
That's what I run on both of my Supers....works great!!!!
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Old 07-06-2007, 01:11 PM   #27
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Weird, all my 5955's turn 90* when they arent hooked up to the truck but plugged in, and my 2.2 turns very close to 45* each direction and its not limited by the servo. Did you adjust your EPA's? I have never ran a 5995 since i have a crappy radio without EPA's, and wont have a good radio for a while. As for voltage regulators, i dont know much about them but i bet all you do is add you peak amperage demands up to figure out what to set it at.
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Old 07-06-2007, 09:56 PM   #28
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Dont you also need EPAs with the 5955s?

Everything Ive heard says you need EPAs with any digital servo.
Ive run the crap out of the TowerPros without EPA so I guess they dont.
But I thought any of the High dollar Digitals need it??
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Old 07-07-2007, 05:39 AM   #29
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This is one of the nicest tubers I have ever seen
Shane
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Old 07-07-2007, 11:52 AM   #30
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This looks like a clod killer? maybe?

Dang nice work!! Puts other well known tubers to shame
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Old 07-07-2007, 10:45 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rockmuncher View Post
This is one of the nicest tubers I have ever seen
Shane
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Originally Posted by dirk379 View Post
This looks like a clod killer? maybe?

Dang nice work!! Puts other well known tubers to shame
Thanks guys! When I got the itch to build this rig I totaly had "clod killer" in my mind. The only bummer is how easy it is for clods to do front and rear burns

I almost have the rear steer done but Im having a hard time setting up my Futaba 3PM to make it work the way I want it
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Old 07-09-2007, 09:19 PM   #32
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Update:

I got my 4-wheel steering up and running this weekend, 5995 in front, 645 in rear, took forever to program my Futaba 3PM to do 4whl and crab walk, but now it works super sweet.

After only two battery packs with the brushless I totaly fried my Crawlmaster lastnight. I noticed it was hot after the first pack but I read a post by JRH stating the 3014 can take 600W and get up to 300F before it's toast. I swapped in my 55t integagy hand wound and man does the thing cook now. lots of control and wheel speed, it could be a 65t or a 6t and be perfect.
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Old 07-09-2007, 09:35 PM   #33
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I was thinking a while back in this thread that you needed a 3025 for that rig...not that the R2 would hold up to it....lets see the update pics
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Old 07-09-2007, 10:59 PM   #34
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I guess to pull off a 3025 id either need the stock or emaxx tranny since they were designed for two motors. I think that and even with one of those trannies clocked I think it'd still have too high of a CofG. Heres some pics with the integy, 4ws, dial'd in shocks, etc



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Old 07-10-2007, 08:23 PM   #35
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Flex pics (the last two are not poser's)



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Old 07-11-2007, 06:51 AM   #36
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Did you ever think about trying a gear reduction unit ahead of the R2 to help the motor out?
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Old 07-11-2007, 09:50 AM   #37
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Looks good! How is the torque twist with the droop set-up?
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Old 07-11-2007, 09:57 AM   #38
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very cool build, can't believe I have not seen this yet

if this is only your third rig, I'd say you are way ahead of the curve.

Very nice work indeed.

I would angle the shocks a bit more and lower your ride height, also looks like you may need thicker shock oil or stronger springs to limit some of the torque twist and flex.

Overall, I love it, nice to see something different for sure.
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Old 07-11-2007, 09:42 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bustedcrawler View Post
Did you ever think about trying a gear reduction unit ahead of the R2 to help the motor out?
I have a GD600 sitting on the work bench but need to get a 5mm, 32pitch pinion to run it

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Originally Posted by RXcrawler View Post
Looks good! How is the torque twist with the droop set-up?
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Originally Posted by Unimoger View Post
very cool build, can't believe I have not seen this yet

if this is only your third rig, I'd say you are way ahead of the curve.

Very nice work indeed.

I would angle the shocks a bit more and lower your ride height, also looks like you may need thicker shock oil or stronger springs to limit some of the torque twist and flex.

Overall, I love it, nice to see something different for sure.
the droop set up works really good and since I installed some losi mini-t springs above the piston and 100wt oil in the shocks the torque twist is minimal if not nonexiastant.

unimoger, I see what ur saying about the front shocks, it allows the front to drop out way too much, i think i will move the lower mounts forward like a 1/4"or more
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Old 07-14-2007, 10:55 AM   #40
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What kind of run times do you get with that battery setup?
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