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Old 05-03-2005, 12:18 AM   #1
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Smile New from the Jeep world

Hey all, I'm new here. I bought and built up a txt using nothing but the SEARCH on this site, so thanks for all the help you probably didnt even know you all have given.

I need help with one last thing i cant find a straight answer to. The Super Rooster.... I got one and hooked it up. It's working fine, but now im confused on having 2 power switches. I have the 4 AA battery pack with the switch that came with the truck, and now, the super rooster which seems to be supplying its own power to my radio and steering.

Seems like i can either run off my 4 AA's or the main batt through the SR, or both?
Can't I just ditch the AA's since they're not helping off camber situations with teh weight they add up high?
Is it bad that the super rooster is feeding power into my radio through the 'throttle' plug?

I'm new to all of this, so thanks again for all the help. In case anyone's curious, I've managed to redo suspension links, wheelbase around 16", revo shafts, make servo mounts, move the tranny up, cut the frame, battery up front, GD600, and more, so I am searchin' but i got stuck by this one. The other posts were kinda confusing.
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Old 05-03-2005, 12:26 AM   #2
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The SR's BEC can handle 2 servos without an RX pack (4 AA's). I would ditch the pack and just use the SR to power it all.

Got any pics of the build?
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Old 05-03-2005, 12:31 AM   #3
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WOW you're quick dude! Thanks for the advice. I'll ditch the RX pack.

I'll try to take a few pics and post em up tomorrow. Its not fine tuned yet, but its still a blast. Everything in my apartment has been knocked over at least once, just testing things out :-)

Last edited by Zero; 05-03-2005 at 12:34 AM.
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Old 05-03-2005, 12:45 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zero
WOW you're quick dude! Thanks for the advice. I'll ditch the RX pack.

I'll try to take a few pics and post em up tomorrow. Its not fine tuned yet, but its still a blast. Everything in my apartment has been knocked over at least once, just testing things out :-)
Nice, you have to test it somewhere!!

Use this as your build-up thread and post some pics so we can check it out.
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Old 05-03-2005, 06:36 PM   #5
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I took a few pics, since threads without pics are worthless :-)

I still have to finish with the lower frame/tranny mount, make a skid, get better servo's, wheels & tires, steering links, and eventually deal with the torque twist.

Only had the truck for a week, so I guess its not too bad for a first attempt. Im glad I found this board, tons of info here. Thanks again.




















Last edited by Zero; 07-13-2005 at 10:08 PM.
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Old 05-03-2005, 06:56 PM   #6
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For only having a week to work on it...Id say you did a hell of a job!!!! Ive had myne since they came out and it dosent even look that good...You might wanna cut those body post down a little and also turn the ball around on the front servo horn...
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Old 05-03-2005, 07:10 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crawler80
For only having a week to work on it...Id say you did a hell of a job!!!! Ive had myne since they came out and it dosent even look that good...You might wanna cut those body post down a little and also turn the ball around on the front servo horn...

Thanks! With all the info around here, it makes the whole process alot easier. I didnt cut the body posts down yet b/c i didnt know what type of body i might want to get in the near future. Im switching the ball on the servo horn around now though :-) Thanks for the advice.
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Old 05-03-2005, 07:11 PM   #8
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Yea man looks good!! How hard was it to get those revos to fit?
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Old 05-03-2005, 09:20 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crawler80
Yea man looks good!! How hard was it to get those revos to fit?
The part #5451 for the revo shafts worked perfectly. (search tower for that part number and it will come up). All I had to do was pop that pin out so you can take off that metal piece, and then you just use that pin, and the supplied screw pin to put it on. (small pin on tranny side, screw pin on the diff side). the only modification I had to do was to dremel off some of the edge to the yoke on the tranny side with a sanding drum. If you dont, the yoke will hit the tranny housing (only on the engine side of the tranny) before the 2 holes line up to put the pin through.

Here's a pic.... engine side is on the right. You can see how the right tranny yoke is ground a bit to make it slide in far enough.

sorry if its a bit blurry



Last edited by Zero; 07-13-2005 at 10:09 PM.
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Old 05-03-2005, 10:37 PM   #10
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looks realy good, when you find some rocks let us know.
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Old 05-04-2005, 09:17 AM   #11
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Not bad for a week. Soon I bet you'll ditch the canti's, lower it down a bit and hopefully make a skid plate. Try dropping your body right on top of the chassis you'll be amazed how much it helps.
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Old 05-04-2005, 11:13 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zero
Thanks! With all the info around here, it makes the whole process alot easier. I didnt cut the body posts down yet b/c i didnt know what type of body i might want to get in the near future. Im switching the ball on the servo horn around now though :-) Thanks for the advice.

You didn't think all this information was free did you???
Wait till you get the invoice!
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Old 05-04-2005, 12:58 PM   #13
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Yeah, I'm sure after a few times out, I'll have it lower and eventually get rid of the canti's. Im afraid to lose any of that flex though. An RTI of 1000 is the holy grail of 1:1 suspension, so its hard to modify something that can articulate so well. But getting rid of the torque twist will be nice. Skid plate is on the list. Whats the best way to secure the body directly to the chassis?



Quote:
Originally Posted by WannaBeDigler
You didn't think all this information was free did you???
Wait till you get the invoice!
The checks in the mail! Thats a post dated check though, so dont cash it until 2095! :-)
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Old 05-04-2005, 01:19 PM   #14
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I just drilled and tapped 2 stock crossmembers for M3 screws. I have 3 total one in front and two in the back.

Here's a link to another way.
"Rock Monkey"

Here's a pic of mine. Front mount is hard to see, it's just a short metal stub. :-P
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Old 05-04-2005, 02:17 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zero
Yeah, I'm sure after a few times out, I'll have it lower and eventually get rid of the canti's. Im afraid to lose any of that flex though. An RTI of 1000 is the holy grail of 1:1 suspension, so its hard to modify something that can articulate so well. But getting rid of the torque twist will be nice. Skid plate is on the list. Whats the best way to secure the body directly to the chassis?



The checks in the mail! Thats a post dated check though, so dont cash it until 2095! :-)

Don't put too much emphsis on the suspension flex and certainly DO NOT compare rc crawling to 1:1. They are way too different. You'll see!

Your cantis will be gone within 90 days. You can easily get the same or more articulation from a traditional shock set up. and you will have way better stability.
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Old 05-05-2005, 01:57 AM   #16
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I'll catch hell for this (Digler??), but hey... I've had the cantilevers on my truck from the very beginning, and I still like/use them. I've eliminated the torque roll, and kept the CoG down low. The truck stands on it's sidewalls w/o rolling, and I can drive it straight up a wall or whatever untill all 4 tires touch the vertical w/o rolling. I haven't tried running with a regular shock setup, so I can't say much for how it works. The standard shock setup might, okay probably will work better, but it isn't the only way to skin a cat!
Build your tuck the way you want to! There is tons of great advice and experience within this forum, so evaluate all of it and use what works best for you!


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Old 05-05-2005, 08:21 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fullmodtxt
I'll catch hell for this (Digler??), but hey... I've had the cantilevers on my truck from the very beginning, and I still like/use them. I've eliminated the torque roll, and kept the CoG down low. The truck stands on it's sidewalls w/o rolling, and I can drive it straight up a wall or whatever untill all 4 tires touch the vertical w/o rolling. I haven't tried running with a regular shock setup, so I can't say much for how it works. The standard shock setup might, okay probably will work better, but it isn't the only way to skin a cat!
Build your tuck the way you want to! There is tons of great advice and experience within this forum, so evaluate all of it and use what works best for you!


http://community.webshots.com/user/gascoupe1933-date

They'll be gone in 90.....
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Old 05-05-2005, 11:15 AM   #18
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I think I'm gonna take care of the wheels and tires first. Trying to get all the info for beadlocks and what fits for tires now. I'm pretty tired of the stock setup, and it should be one of the first mods anyway I guess. I'll probably work on the canti's after that.
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Old 05-09-2005, 01:43 PM   #19
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Nice clean rig, but I agree with dig, go with a nice set of savage shocks!
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Old 05-11-2005, 10:23 PM   #20
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I'm sure I probably will have a new suspension on this thing before the end of the month.... I cant stand the way the front left tire will climb and flex upward, but when the front right tries to climb, the left side stays in the air.

Random idea though, would having driveshafts that spin in opposite directions eliminate torque twist? (tranny outputs on 2 separate shafts, and obviously the axles would have to be opposing so that the axles dont drive towards and away from each other and try to rip the truck in half) just a thought though.
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