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Thread: About to Start My First LCC Build...HELP

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Old 03-17-2011, 04:06 PM   #41
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looks like that'll do just fine, cbp.com has been out of stock for a while, kinda bringing me down :( remember with hobbyking, you may be ordering from hong kong depending on which warehouse you select, it'll take time (2.5 weeks for my order from them) if you select the us warehouse it should be quicker though.
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Old 03-17-2011, 05:57 PM   #42
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Don't know if you've got a charger yet but you won't beat this deal.Lots of guys on here have em and mine is on the way.Hurry though they are rarely in stock. http://www.hobbypartz.com/thac6smbachw.html

And they are in Cali super fast shipping!

Last edited by cblake187; 03-17-2011 at 06:00 PM. Reason: location info
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Old 03-18-2011, 07:05 AM   #43
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Don't know if you've got a charger yet but you won't beat this deal.Lots of guys on here have em and mine is on the way.Hurry though they are rarely in stock. http://www.hobbypartz.com/thac6smbachw.html

And they are in Cali super fast shipping!
Charger ordered! Thanks for the deal link. Would those 4s batteries be a good match for the Tekin 17.5 motor? I want to avoid smoke
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Old 03-18-2011, 10:37 AM   #44
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since its kv rating is only 2500kv on 4s you should be fine so the motor at wide open would be doing about 42k rpm which is still in the safe range so you should be fine since ive seen the 21.5t ran on 6s and it ran fine
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Old 03-18-2011, 08:42 PM   #45
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Would I be better off with the 20 or 30C version? I ordered one of each for testing. I assume I get a little more punch/wheel speed with the 30C but shorter run times?
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Old 03-19-2011, 11:23 AM   #46
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the 30c is capable of more amp output (more punch) but they should both last about the same with the same load on them just the 30c will work less and last more cycles. example 1300mah 30c vs 1300mah 20c. 1.3x30=39A continuous vs 1.3x20=26A continuous.
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Old 03-22-2011, 07:28 PM   #47
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hey guys the truck and parts have started to arrive...I have mounted the steering servo and shock arms (the easy stuff). Question: should the truck roll freely straight out of the box? Mine doesn't, it is completly bound up, all four wheels. Also do I need to install the dig servo (which I have now), or can I add it later. I wanted to start simple. THANKS

still waiting on motor, batts and charger

nevermind: I see that spinning the drive shaft turns the wheels and the spur gear in the transmission.

Last edited by drusierdmd; 03-24-2011 at 08:40 AM. Reason: answer to question
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Old 03-26-2011, 03:17 PM   #48
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Okay about to start wiring everything up and program my ESC...but I see the tekin 17.5 motor I have is sensored (I have the connector cable). Do you guys recommend I hook this up? Does it plug into my MM 1 cell?
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Old 03-26-2011, 03:26 PM   #49
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plug and play, a to a and so on, and then gently plug the sensor wire in to the motor and esc. one of my wires on the sensor cable came out of the plug on the sensor cable is why i say gently. recommend some bullet plugs on the motor if you have them, makes disassembly way easier. if it turns the wrong way, i just plugged mine into the castle link and reversed the motor rotation on the computer.

EDIT: definitely hook it up, cogs like a sonofbatch without it.

Last edited by ghtpdm5; 03-26-2011 at 03:37 PM.
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Old 03-31-2011, 10:06 AM   #50
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Okay everything is assembled and soldered. My batteries will be here this afternoon. When I installed the motor, if I tighten the cheap motor mount all the way down it binds up. Should I leave these two bolt (on the motor mount) slightly loose and allow for smooth turning while maintaining a proper gear mesh? Seems like a poor design, I'll look into the RCBros mount

I plan to test things first with the motor not installed.

I set the BEC to 6V for testing but would it be okay to bump it up to 7.2V on the 7950?

I'll get some pics posted sometime tomorrow
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Old 03-31-2011, 05:43 PM   #51
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Okay battery arrived, soldered deans connectors, binded transmitter...steering servo works, thats it. No leds on the 1cell, green led on the BEC. Ive used castles wiring diagram with the red lead removed on the wire going from the MM to the receiver. HELP? Ill be searching the forums

Edit: got the dig servo working, set a rocker switch to 3P
Note: all trims are zeroed on the dx3r, MMP will not arm, no lights, it will light up when plug up usb to my computer.

Edit 2: found the calibration instructions on castles site. guess what my 1cell does not have an on off switch. I understand it is supposed to come from the same grommet that the receiver leads do. Nothing else it there. Thoughts?

Edit 3: got it sorted. Just plug in and start calibration. I had to reattach the red receiver lead too

Last edited by drusierdmd; 03-31-2011 at 08:41 PM.
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Old 04-03-2011, 12:33 PM   #52
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you will be happy with the thunder ac6 charger

i bought one 2 years ago and it has not given me any problems
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Old 04-03-2011, 01:39 PM   #53
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you will be happy with the thunder ac6 charger

i bought one 2 years ago and it has not given me any problems
agreed great charger...only thing is I had to visit the LHS and pick up a balance board for my thunder power 3s 1350mah lipo. $5 no biggie.

The LCC is working flawlessly, just enabled cheat at 12K and I think 15deg timing. Great fun, just need to find some good crawl spots.
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Old 04-03-2011, 11:17 PM   #54
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Originally Posted by drusierdmd View Post
hey guys the truck and parts have started to arrive...I have mounted the steering servo and shock arms (the easy stuff). Question: should the truck roll freely straight out of the box? Mine doesn't, it is completly bound up, all four wheels. Also do I need to install the dig servo (which I have now), or can I add it later. I wanted to start simple. THANKS

still waiting on motor, batts and charger

nevermind: I see that spinning the drive shaft turns the wheels and the spur gear in the transmission.
Its the worm gears working. they wont spin with reverse input.

Quote:
Originally Posted by drusierdmd View Post
Okay everything is assembled and soldered. My batteries will be here this afternoon. When I installed the motor, if I tighten the cheap motor mount all the way down it binds up. Should I leave these two bolt (on the motor mount) slightly loose and allow for smooth turning while maintaining a proper gear mesh? Seems like a poor design, I'll look into the RCBros mount

I plan to test things first with the motor not installed.

I set the BEC to 6V for testing but would it be okay to bump it up to 7.2V on the 7950?

I'll get some pics posted sometime tomorrow
No dont run with them loose you risk stripping a spur that way. they should not bind the motor at all. Do you mean it makes the mesh too tight? cant you spin the motor a little to relive the bind?

Quote:
Originally Posted by drusierdmd View Post
Okay battery arrived, soldered deans connectors, binded transmitter...steering servo works, thats it. No leds on the 1cell, green led on the BEC. Ive used castles wiring diagram with the red lead removed on the wire going from the MM to the receiver. HELP? Ill be searching the forums

Edit: got the dig servo working, set a rocker switch to 3P
Note: all trims are zeroed on the dx3r, MMP will not arm, no lights, it will light up when plug up usb to my computer.

Edit 2: found the calibration instructions on castles site. guess what my 1cell does not have an on off switch. I understand it is supposed to come from the same grommet that the receiver leads do. Nothing else it there. Thoughts?

Edit 3: got it sorted. Just plug in and start calibration. I had to reattach the red receiver lead too
There is no internal bec in these so the red wire needs to be there to tell it to turn on basically. I haven't seen any with a power switch on them
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Old 04-04-2011, 07:25 PM   #55
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hey guys great help. thanks for all of your detailed responses. this crawler has already brought a big smile to my face on a couple of occasions.



I was crawling from a distance b/c this was a construction site with a pushed over fence...i was on the non-trespassing side
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Old 04-04-2011, 07:32 PM   #56
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Originally Posted by drusierdmd View Post
hey guys great help. thanks for all of your detailed responses. this crawler has already brought a big smile to my face on a couple of occasions.



I was crawling from a distance b/c this was a construction site with a pushed over fence...i was on the non-trespassing side
nice!
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Old 04-05-2011, 01:11 AM   #57
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Originally Posted by T/C Hunter View Post
I would go with the LCC over the LNC . Losi 17.5 Xcelorin Brush-less motor . Great torque & good wheel speed. Dont forget to order at least 3 pinions. 13 14 & 15. tooth. The kits does not include a pinion gear. I would suggest a MMP for your ESC . Turnigy 1300 mAh 3S Nano packs from Hobby King. Once you set up your Crawler drive it for while and get use to it. Then you'll have a better idea what upgrades you'll want. The LCC has dig too and that to me is whats make Crawling so cool and fun. Get good electronics the first time out , no need to buy twice then. Good luck and welcome to the sickness.
Agreed. I bought the LNC first then I realized how much I enjoy this so Im selling it and getting the lcc and getting good stuff for it. I wish I sterted with the lcc tho. Just would have saved money.
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Old 04-07-2011, 10:35 AM   #58
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Has anyone tried the new thunder power G6 lipos? It looks like they have 3S and 4S in both 850 and 1300mah ratings. 65C continous and 130C burst. Also their older packs are all on sale.

I still have not received my hobbyking 4S batts I ordered more than 2 weeks ago. I'm currently running a single TP V2 1350 mAh 3S with good results.
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