tire clearance and lowering C.O.G

[-BIGMAXX-]

I am needing a way to lower my center of Gravity a bit more. Thinking of lowering the battery mounting and switching to lipo.
Does anyone have any photos of where you have remounted the battery too?

Any other ideas for keep the front axle down and staying right side up on steep approach angles and extreme off camber areas, I'm always flipping over when I get sideways and doing backflips on approach.

I have 5oz in the front wheels and 3 in the rear, Thing of adding another oz to each front but really dont think it will make a huge difference.

Also I have switched the stock tires out for a set of the comp claws and am rubbing my tires on my shocks while turning. Any way to relocate the front shock mounts or another way to fix this?

[ghtpdm5]

a smaller roughly 1000-1300 lipo mounted on the front upper links is a good place to start on lower your cog. combine that with relocating your electronics as low as you can, and you've got a great start.

as far as the shock rub, turn the epa/dual rate down on you controller or deal with it, i would just choose the deal with it option unless they're really into the shocks. its a pretty normal thing.

[losikid]

Dlux knuckle weights will work wonders

DLUX FAB

[mrG]

I've got my lipo on my front links and electronics on the rear links. Before adding more weight to the front pull some out of the rear. Limiting shocks will help in off camber situations. As for the tires rubbing you can use wider hexes, mip or gmade work well.

[-BIGMAXX-]

After moving the battery and electronics do you remove any of the chassis or trim anything higher that your not using? Also, will moving the shock location in any way help side to side stability. I've seen the extended arms for mounting the shock forward more from the top of the chassis.
Ive been looking at some other rigs on here and was wondering if there is a way to modify this chassis to one of those where the undercarage is arched up high for better ground clearance towards the rear, dont know the name for the type of trucks. I really miss the ability of my pimp cane though it was never completely finished it seemed almost unstoppable.

[eylemkaan]

This is how i changed the way my lnc was configured. The green velcro is holding a 1.3Ah 3s lipo.



I've just cut a piece of plexiglass and ziptied it on the lower links as a battery tray.

[redrokin00XJ]

You'd a lot better off moving your electronics lower.

[mrG]

Originally Posted by -BIGMAXX-

After moving the battery and electronics do you remove any of the chassis or trim anything higher that your not using? Also, will moving the shock location in any way help side to side stability. I've seen the extended arms for mounting the shock forward more from the top of the chassis.
Ive been looking at some other rigs on here and was wondering if there is a way to modify this chassis to one of those where the undercarage is arched up high for better ground clearance towards the rear, dont know the name for the type of trucks. I really miss the ability of my pimp cane though it was never completely finished it seemed almost unstoppable.

You can remove any piece that serves no purpose and hack up the chassis. Think a little before you do anything permanent though. Here is a link to sidehill improvement.
Sidehill Improvement On the Cheap?
Here's one on ground clearance
Rubba's TLR Comp Crawler Prototype

[thomass14]

I'll look for a better pick tomorrow but this helped with climbs, breakovers and the tallest thing in the chassis is the motor. I'll get lid off pic.

[redrokin00XJ]

Here is what I came up with, front and rear.... Flipped the shock over and it gave me 1/4 inch on both sides. So it's a half in wider and it fixes the leaking problem.

[highlandcrawler]

Originally Posted by -BIGMAXX-

After moving the battery and electronics do you remove any of the chassis or trim anything higher that your not using? Also, will moving the shock location in any way help side to side stability. I've seen the extended arms for mounting the shock forward more from the top of the chassis.
Ive been looking at some other rigs on here and was wondering if there is a way to modify this chassis to one of those where the undercarage is arched up high for better ground clearance towards the rear, dont know the name for the type of trucks. I really miss the ability of my pimp cane though it was never completely finished it seemed almost unstoppable.

I think what you are describing is and ascending skid setup. The stock chassis does not lend itself to working well with this setup. You can run the rear shocks real high and low in the front but you are making huge trade offs in other areas to gain break over. Overkill has a new chassis coming that puts the major focus on clearance and break overs. You might wanna wait for that to come out in the coming days. Are you running a nightcrawler? I ask because you spoke of the risers and not having any. If that is the case pick up some lcc shock risers and that will give you almost infinite shock tuning and rideheight options.

[-BIGMAXX-]

Thanks for the info, the pic and the link. Ill check it out and hopefully post some pics of my changes.
Meantime keep the info and pics coming...i need all i can get.

[ghtpdm5]

as highland said there is a new chassis from overkillrc soon, he's also dead on as usual with the advice on running the front shocks very short. sounds like a decent concept until you have a couple runs on it and hate it (stock chassis at least for me, did not work at all) my thread has decent pictures and descriptions of my pre-production prototype. i tried many things trying to gain clearance on the stock chassis, best i could get that was stable was 3 in. with the cdw rails and my shark fin, kicked it up to 3.5-4 i believe and felt way more stable than anything i tried with the stocker. my current chassis is running at 4.75 but i've hit the wall of cog vs. clearance vs. driveshaft angle, i know that if i had a comp to run tomorrow, there would be 5-10mm internal spacers in the shocks, and the externals would come off. but as it sits, its a worse case torture test, i don't suggest running what i do on mine without hardened or chromo pins in the driveshafts, and a spare set if you blow up a cvd cup. then it would be around my v1 ride and i loved driving that thing (pain in the ass to work on though), put 30 hours of testing on it, and that was right at 4 in. full drop out. in the end here it comes down to your driving style and how the truck feels on the course, we can recommend anything, but in the end, tuning is truly up to the person behind the wheel. i will, as i always do, recommend against the big wheel wideners, the increase in scrub radius and the torque they demand from the steering servo is simply not worth the trouble in my opinion. i personally like the dirt cheap axial cast hexes ground to the width you want, and axial offset wheels. been running that for a long time and they work well together.

[-BIGMAXX-]

Good info GHT, Im not able to really purchase much for this, I'll be sticking with mostly stock parts, maybe a cheap set of wideners unsure at this point. I'll be doing only stock chassis mods at this time.
So against my better judgement I am tearing this up and removing battery tray and lights. Also Im mounting the reciever to the back of the steering servo (at least for now) then I will mount my 2200mah 2s lipo on the servo/receiver. I havent used this battery in this truck yet...should be fine, right? I am hoping to flip the trans to straighen the drive lines and then arch the front lower links to add clearance for more flex. Also will find a wy to mount the shocks close to straight up and down, and outboard them a bit.
The trans flip looks a bit tricky, I just dont like taking these things apart cause I'm not so good at puuting them back together.

Any more tips or suggestions on my plans, also is there a common metal link to replace the stock lowers on this thing?

[-BIGMAXX-]

Okay so I know this is going in the opposite diretion for shock mounting but, would it work? After being pushed down the chassis springs up alot higher on the side with the shocks in this new location...any tried it yet?


this is the difference in stock ride height


So......

[-BIGMAXX-]

I know this is no big deal But heres a pic of the chassis with the battery trau removed. I'm sure there is someone who would like to see this without having to break in their own.

I guess I'll be flipping my shocks as well sence I noticed they are leaking now. no suprise there.

Heading to work now so the progress will stop for today and resume tomorrow after noon...so any ideas, tips, and pics would rock.

[-BIGMAXX-]

quick pic of the receiver relocated, very close to the drive shaft but does not hit at any angles, may have to find a new spot if I do flip the trans, not sure.

[-BIGMAXX-]

okay scratch that, it cant be mounted on the back of the servo because the links hit it when it twists.

[thomass14]

just a pic of everything moved around on my chassis

[thomass14]

I would just get some bars to support the top of the chassis, ditch the battery tray, and find happy medium on the chassis to mount shocks may have to drill new hole to try and mount them. or lcc shock arms for some adjustment