Go Back   RCCrawler Forums > RCCrawler Brand Specific Tech > Team Losi Comp Crawler
Loading

Notices

Thread: Tip: How to reduce the friction in LCC and LNC.

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 11-21-2012, 02:57 AM   #1
RCC Addict
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Sweden
Posts: 1,809
Default Tip: How to reduce the friction in LCC and LNC.

(Extracted from an older thread.)

When I first ran my at the time brand new LCC it was sluggish, weak (as in low torque), and in three minutes the motor overheated.
Obviously something was wrong!
It took me half a year to identify (and handle) all the sources of uneccessary friction in the rig. Now it's only the inherent sources (mostly the worm drives) that are left.

Here's what I've found, and how to handle it:

Lubricants
The LCC (excluding the motor) can do with only two(*) lubes:
1. A spray-on dry film lubricant (DFL) based on either PTFE (Teflon), which is great but expensive, or Silicone, which is good and cheaper.
2. A water resistant grease that can handle high pressure and beatings. "Marine grease" or something Molybdene Sulfide based will do nicely.

What to check
(Going from the motor out towards the wheels.)

1. Pinion.
The pinion should mesh nicely with the idler gear. With the pinion in place you should be able to rotate the idler a little (like 0.2mm or 0.01") without it touching the pinion.
Lubrication of the pinion, as well as all other cog wheels in the LCC, isn't necessary. If you want to do it use DFL. (Grease will attract dust and dirt, therefore dry lubrication is the way to go.)

2. Gearbox center plate. (LCC only)
The three screws holding this plate to the housing are typically drawn too tight, which cause an axial strain on the main bearings and thereby friction. The screws should be drawn all the way in, and then losened ~1/4 rotation.

3. Dig forks. (LCC only)
If you actually use the dig apply DFL (or a thin oil) on the dig plates where the forks run.
If you don't use the dig, remove the dig forks!

4. Drive shafts.
The joints do wear a bit. Dissemble and apply DFL (or just apply some thin oil without dissembling, risking dirt to stick and make the situation worse).
While you're at it, apply DFL to the entire exterior of both shaft halves to make them slide easier over obstacles.

5. Worm drives.
Make sure the spools are properly seated by pushing them side to side. There should be a hint of room to wiggle the spool between the bearings. Adjust by adding/removing shims if necessary.
Apply a liberal amount of grease. The task of the grease is not only to reduce the heat generated, but also to transfer the generated heat from the gears to the casing.
(It gets even better if you also replace the front drive with HD parts, since they have a different gearing causeing the front wheels to spin slightly faster than the rear. The difference in speed decrease friction while turning, which is what you do most of the time.)

6. Rear axle.
The long screws holding the rear hubs are often overtightened, making the spacer press against the bearings causing axial pressure and friction.
The proper way to mount the rear hubs, axle and bearings is to
a) place the rear axle (shaft) into position (inserted in the worm spool).
b) place a bearing at the inner edge of the hub.
c) thread the bearing and hub onto the axle and push it into position.
d) add the long spacer and the outer bearing to the axle.
e) mount the hub end by turning the screws all the way in and then back them out ~1/4 turn.
f) add the short spacer.

7. Wheel hexes.
In their standard shape the ring like "shim" on the inside of the hex will press against the bearings if you draw the weel nuts tight, causing friction and gradually wearing down the bearings.
The easy fix is to not tighten the wheel nuts.
A better fix is to grind off the rings from the hexes, like this:

That way you can tighten the wheel nuts as much as you like.

Results
I've done all of the above, including removing the dig forks, and there's a huge difference compared to the original state!

(*) You will probably want a third, O-ring grease, to keep the shock absorbers fit as well. That's not so much about driving friction though and therefore out of scope for this article.

Last edited by Olle P; 09-27-2013 at 02:13 PM. Reason: Minor changes for extra clarification.
Olle P is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Old 11-21-2012, 05:26 AM   #2
Pebble Pounder
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: South Africa
Posts: 117
Default Re: Tip: How to reduce the friction in LCC and LNC.

Great info thanks
I have done all of the above mentioned except the wheel hexes.
I read this thread before I got my LCC and was looking at improvements that I can do, while I got the rig striped as i got it second had, and was a service due.

I have noticed that the wheel nuts undo themselves rather quickly, especially in the rear, so I carry a wheel spanner with me the whole time and must probably tighten the rear twice in once 1300mha Lipo pack.
I was worried that I might over tighten them, but it leaves you no choice, you have to clamp down on them.

I will try to dremmel off the little ridge you are talking about, to see if I tighten the nuts then if the will still come loose.

Thanks again for the thread.
Charel is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2012, 07:24 AM   #3
RCC Addict
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Sweden
Posts: 1,809
Default Re: Tip: How to reduce the friction in LCC and LNC.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Charel View Post
I have noticed that the wheel nuts undo themselves rather quickly, ...
There are two solutions for this common problem:
- Replace the nuts, every time you've removed them. (A pretty expensive solution.)
- Use thread lock. That's what I do.
Olle P is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2012, 03:07 PM   #4
Got Worms?
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Golden, CO
Posts: 6,116
Default Re: Tip: How to reduce the friction in LCC and LNC.

Get serrated flange nuts...
losikid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2012, 05:15 PM   #5
WAM
Rock Crawler
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: SoCal
Posts: 949
Default Re: Tip: How to reduce the friction in LCC and LNC.

What is your point on your "proper" assembly sequence of the rear hubs? If that's the right way to do it, what would be the wrong way? Just trying to see what you're getting at.
WAM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2012, 05:21 PM   #6
RCC Addict
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Amish Buggy PA
Posts: 1,100
Default Re: Tip: How to reduce the friction in LCC and LNC.

Wheel hex is a great idea, I can personally vouch for hanging up the axles by over tightening the wheel nuts.
DRCrawlGood is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2012, 11:07 PM   #7
Pebble Pounder
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: South Africa
Posts: 117
Default Re: Tip: How to reduce the friction in LCC and LNC.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Olle P View Post
There are two solutions for this common problem:
- Replace the nuts, every time you've removed them. (A pretty expensive solution.)
- Use thread lock. That's what I do.
Thanx Olle, I will try some thread lock, never used thread lock before on wheel nuts but will give it a go.

Quote:
Originally Posted by losikid View Post
Get serrated flange nuts...
Thanx for the input losikid, can you please show me a pic of these nuts your talking about?
Charel is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-22-2012, 02:59 AM   #8
RCC Addict
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Sweden
Posts: 1,809
Default Re: Tip: How to reduce the friction in LCC and LNC.

Serrated flange nuts grind on the rims every time they're tightened. Not too good in the long run, IMO...

Quote:
Originally Posted by WAM View Post
What is your point on your "proper" assembly sequence of the rear hubs? If that's the right way to do it, what would be the wrong way? Just trying to see what you're getting at.
The key objective is to make sure the inner bearings are seated as far in as possible.

My way of doing that (Step B-02 in the manual) is to:
1. Take the shaft (A3184) and slide on the inner bearing.
2. Press the hub (A2030) onto the bearing, but only so that it "stick" to the narrow part of the hub.
3. Wiggle/turn/twist the shaft into position in the worm spool and push the hub onto the axle housing. With that push the bearing will be forced into the correct spot.
4. Slide the longer spacer (A3185) and outer bearing onto the shaft.
5. Slide the outer hub end onto the shaft.
6. Draw the screws (A6268 ) all the way in (making the bearings press at the distance, which is bad), and then unscrew them 1/4 turn.
7. Attach the outer spacer, pin and hex.

The wrong way of doing this is to mount the hub before sliding in the bearings, using the spacer to push the inner bearing into position.

Last edited by Olle P; 11-22-2012 at 10:55 AM.
Olle P is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-22-2012, 09:06 AM   #9
RCC Addict
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Earth?
Posts: 1,698
Default Re: Tip: How to reduce the friction in LCC and LNC.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DRCrawlGood View Post
Wheel hex is a great idea, I can personally vouch for hanging up the axles by over tightening the wheel nuts.

X2. Had I know this info back then. It would have saved 2 or 3 sets of worm gears.
KBrog is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-22-2012, 09:27 PM   #10
Got Worms?
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Golden, CO
Posts: 6,116
Default Re: Tip: How to reduce the friction in LCC and LNC.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Olle P View Post
Serrated flange nuts grind on the rims every time they're tightened. Not too good in the long run, IMO...
I ran aluminum serrated flange lock nuts for 2 years with losi plastic wheels and a year with aluminum hubs...works great for me, and don't every back off.
losikid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-22-2012, 09:29 PM   #11
Got Worms?
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Golden, CO
Posts: 6,116
Default Re: Tip: How to reduce the friction in LCC and LNC.

This is what i use

Traxxas 4mm Aluminum Flanged Serrated Nuts (Blue) (4) [TRA1747R] | RC Cars & Trucks - A Main Hobbies
losikid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-23-2012, 07:08 AM   #12
Pebble Pounder
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: South Africa
Posts: 117
Default Re: Tip: How to reduce the friction in LCC and LNC.

Thanx Losikid,

I have dremeld off the ridge of the hexes last night so will give it a proper work out this weekend, and report back on Monday how it held up.
I will first try them without thread-lock, and see, and if they still come loose, will pull the bottle out

Anyone here have some thought about play starting to appear in the axles on the side shafts, I can turn each wheel about 5-10mm before they stop...?
Charel is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-23-2012, 08:43 AM   #13
Rock Crawler
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Knoxville
Posts: 626
Default Re: Tip: How to reduce the friction in LCC and LNC.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Charel View Post
Thanx Losikid,

I have dremeld off the ridge of the hexes last night so will give it a proper work out this weekend, and report back on Monday how it held up.
I will first try them without thread-lock, and see, and if they still come loose, will pull the bottle out

Anyone here have some thought about play starting to appear in the axles on the side shafts, I can turn each wheel about 5-10mm before they stop...?
Yes, that is from the spool teeth rotating in between the worm teeth. That very slight gap translates to quite a bit when you get out to the 5.5" wheel. This also increases with gear wear. Nothing you can do about that (other than regular maintenance cycles that will reduce the rate of wear over time), but couple things to check.
- Worn spool or axle shaft connection (not likely, but still possible over time)
- improper worm shimming

One way to check the proper shimming on the worm is to see if the driveshaft and worm move for and aft at the axle housing when you wiggle the wheels forward and backward. IMO there should be a slight movement, because if you shimmed it all out it would not be as free. If there is alot of movement, add a shim; if there is none take one out. I have found that it is OK to run odd number of shims (ex. 2 in front, 3 in back) depending on the wear on your housing.

Hope that makes sense.

Last edited by dentonmac; 11-23-2012 at 08:51 AM.
dentonmac is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-23-2012, 09:34 AM   #14
Pebble Pounder
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: South Africa
Posts: 117
Default

Thanx for the input.
I have a strong suspicion it might be where the shafts fit into the spool.
When I hold both wheels an rotate the one till the play is out it then grabs the other wheel and rotate it a very small amount witch will be the play between the worm and spool, and that still feels vine. That is why I think it's by the spool an shaft where they join. But the only why to check that is to open the axel. Can the play between the spool and shafts be so much, or am I missing something?

Thanx for the help guys
Charel is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-23-2012, 11:31 AM   #15
Pebble Pounder
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: South Africa
Posts: 117
Default

Never mined....I'm a idiot...
After reading your post again, I went back to my Losi and checked thing over again, and your rite about it being the play between the spool and worm.

I held the two wheels again and turned them together after the slop is taken up, and I could see the worm pushing the drive shaft in and out, so now I see what you ment.
I think the play on the worm is acceptable but will keep an eye on them, and shim them up if need be.

Thanx for your post, I learned allot about my car with that.
Charel is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-23-2013, 04:51 AM   #16
RCC Addict
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Australia Queensland!
Posts: 1,086
Default Re: Tip: How to reduce the friction in LCC and LNC.

This is an awesome thread that needs to stay where everyone can see it
pajey is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-18-2013, 02:31 PM   #17
Rock Crawler
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Upland
Posts: 901
Default

Thanks for all the tips

Sent from my PG86100 with Tapatalk 2
I <3 Tekin
z50king is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-17-2013, 07:34 PM   #18
Newbie
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: The Shire
Posts: 44
Default Re: Tip: How to reduce the friction in LCC and LNC.

I started using DFL today on some of the parts you recommended. Not only did the truck stay cooler overall, but there was definitely less noise. Thanks. Plus using blue threadlock helps on the stock wheel nuts. No issues. Day one success!
MattyJ603 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-26-2013, 08:14 AM   #19
Rock Crawler
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Knoxville
Posts: 626
Default Re: Tip: How to reduce the friction in LCC and LNC.

Quote:
Originally Posted by pajey View Post
This is an awesome thread that needs to stay where everyone can see it
X2, doing my part!
dentonmac is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-27-2013, 07:14 AM   #20
Rock Crawler
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 563
Default Re: Tip: How to reduce the friction in LCC and LNC.

Sweet info in here. I'll be doing all this when I tear down/rebuild mine.
Wicked Monkey is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
friction, lubrication



Tip: How to reduce the friction in LCC and LNC. - Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
LNC vs. LCC Trans DoctorRC Team Losi Comp Crawler 33 07-09-2013 08:47 AM
LNC driveshafts on an LCC? Erik D_lux Team Losi Comp Crawler 10 09-26-2010 06:56 AM
Lcc tranny in a Lnc? Jay2380 Team Losi Comp Crawler 2 03-27-2010 09:51 AM
LCC vs LNC TOYUTAH Team Losi Comp Crawler 9 01-15-2010 08:04 PM
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 03:28 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO ©2011, Crawlability, Inc.
Copyright 2004-2014 RCCrawler.com