LCC build

[maquet24]

just got my lcc set up and have a few questions. I'm definitely a noob to the lcc.

My setup has a novak 13.5 brushless motor and esc, 1300mah 7.4 lipo, and fs-gt3b.





1. There is a lag between forward and reverse. it doesn't happen if I wait a second between the control but sucks for roll recovery. It is less noticeable when I adjust the throttle trim but this doesn't seem like the right solution. What Is the fix?

2. I got the dig set up and it works great for either front or rear but is there a way to control it, like with a 3 way switch, with the gt3b without the hack? I'm planning to do the hack but if I can do front and rear dig now without it that would be awesome.

3. I don't have the upper transmission cover, is this a big deal? I'm not running through water but a little sand.

4. The axles felt pretty warm after running for about 15 minutes. Is this normal? (havn't had a chance to inspect the axle internals yet due to stripped hardware)

Thanks in advance for the help

Mike

[smeesho]

As far as the dig .I use the same radio and just use the one touch 3rd channel for front dig only. Hack it if u plan on comping as far as diffs go they will get worm b sure to grease regularly. Losi has discontinued the comp so if u are planning on keeping your rig together buy some ring and barrels.

[Olle P]

Originally Posted by maquet24

1. There is a lag between forward and reverse... What Is the fix?

That's a setting in the ESC. Immediate reverse is usually referred to as "crawler mode".

Originally Posted by maquet24

2. ... the dig ... is there a way to control it, like with a 3 way switch, with the gt3b without the hack?

No. (Unless you sacrifice steering or speed control...)

Originally Posted by maquet24

3. I don't have the upper transmission cover, is this a big deal?

There is an obvious risk that sand gets collected in there. I'd buy a new cover.

Originally Posted by maquet24

4. The axles felt pretty warm after running for about 15 minutes. Is this normal?

Yes. The worm drives, if properly lubricated, will consume roughly half of the motor power. If they're not well lubed they'll overheat in little time!

Do check out this thread!

[maquet24]

awesome info just what I was looking for, thanks!

[maquet24]

Did some esc adjusting and it's better but there is still a delay between forward to reverse. I didn't see the option for immediate reverse, just forward and brake and forward delay reverse.

I reversed the motor rotation (which I guess is less efficient) and then reversed my controller and now the delay is in forward which is nice for roll recovery but still not perfect.

Has anyone set this esc up with no delay forward or rear?

[Olle P]

What make and model is your ESC?

[maquet24]

Novak GTB2 with sensored 13.5T motor

[Olle P]

That's a racing ESC. The info publicly provided by Novak doesn't tell if there's a "crawler" mode, but since it isn't mentioned I'd guess it's not. (There should be plenty of warnings not to use crawler mode for race cars if it was present.)

[maquet24]

Free piece of aircraft aluminum from work, 55cents worth of hardware, and about 2.5 hours and the LCC is 100% better at crawling.




I also regreased the axles and found a bearing on its last leg. Next upgrades will be bearings and hd worms (maybe just front). After that maybe the GT3B Hack kit.

[maquet24]

Alright I got a new dmg frame and ordered a mmp esc. The problem I'm having now is battery overheating. I talked with castle and they recommended a lower kv higher turn motor like the tekin rock 412 to replace my Novak ballistic 13.5.

What sensored motor combo do you suggest and will my 2c 1300mah 25c batteries handle it? Should I order new batteries too?

[Olle P]

You do need better batteries! The reason they get hot is that you pull too much current from them.
A higher wind motor will draw less current, but also deliver less power and thus reduce the top speed as well.
- The cheap solution for you is to just get batteries with higher C-rating (read: discharce capacity).
- You get better performance by using a lower Kv motor (such as a cheapish 2-pole 17.5T, ROC412 2100Kv or Holmes Revolver S) in combination with 3S batteries. Then the current and, more importantly, power drawn from the battery is reduced while providing the same or better top speed. A same physical size 3S battery holds ~870mAh, will give you a bit more running time but also be rated for at least 60C peak.

[maquet24]

One step forward two steps back. Got my third MMP installed, bought a rock 412 motor, and upgraded my batteries to Turnigy 1.3 Graphene 50c 3s 11.1v.

It was working great for the first battery and a half but the worm stall was outrageous. I was using the front and rear drive to bump out of it but somehow I still managed to melt my main idler gear in the transmission....

So I found the replacement metal gears for the transmission and was planning to replace them but I still think the worm stall is going to be a pain the ass!

I'm thinking about replacing the axles with a more traditional setup any ideas on easy swaps? Has anyone seen these?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LXTYP7V/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3LXU 1E3EPDHZS&coliid=I3FW5C1MUZMYPU

I'll continue to search your builds and see what ya'll are doing but any help is appreciated. As always thanks guys!