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Rock Crawler Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: Waukesha
Posts: 635
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I tried searching for awhile and eventually got frustrated when I could find anything that made sense to me anymore. I need a more real world type answer for what I'm looking for. I'm in the process of building my second scx10 II and I'm going to be using the proline K5 body which is quite narrow. I built the kit minus the shorter rear links at the moment so I could mock up how the wheels and tires would fit. I used a spare set of wagons I have just to see how wide they are which is to much for my liking. I'd like to stay in a 1.55 wheel possibly but not wanting to do a 1.7 but if any wheels will tuck in better I'm open to suggestions at this time. I may have to look into shorter axles I don't know at this point. Thanks in advance here's a pic I snapped with the body just resting on the roller. ![]() Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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Rock Stacker Join Date: Jan 2017 Location: On RCC Studying
Posts: 90
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The most positive offset options I have found are the SuperShatfy Upper Hafty 1.9 and the TSS Monster 1.9. I own both and love them. For 1.5 we need more options.
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Rock Crawler Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: Waukesha
Posts: 635
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Got any pics with them on your rig? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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Rock Crawler Join Date: Dec 2013 Location: Norway
Posts: 689
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That body is to narrow to fix with offset. Would be better to get a MST CFX kit or a Ascender Blazer body.
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Rock Crawler Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: Waukesha
Posts: 635
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That's what I was afraid of. I had one previously on 1.9's I cut the fenders to fit bigger tires but didn't really want to cut them on this one. Flares are my next option. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk | |
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Rock Crawler Join Date: Dec 2013 Location: Norway
Posts: 689
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The Ascender body fits nice, but you will need rear shock hoops from scx10 2, Cus that will allow use of scx10 2 rear bodymounts, and they are a bit taller than the OG bodymounts. | |
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Rock Crawler Join Date: Dec 2013 Location: Norway
Posts: 689
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Here is my K5 proline next to the Ascender K5 And my Ascender with paint, they look much better also. Last edited by AngelowDoom; 02-19-2017 at 07:05 PM. |
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Rock Stacker Join Date: Jan 2017 Location: On RCC Studying
Posts: 90
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Sorry I do but I don't. I have the wheels on with 350 and 600 slw's. I just thought of a great option for you. The G Made steel wheels will suck in your tires. They have some decent weight to them to ![]() |
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Rock Crawler Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: Waukesha
Posts: 635
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I ran gmades on my og scx. Didn't look to bad pulls the tires in 2mm which I might do for the time being. The vaterra body is a nice option as well except it's the same wheelbase as the stock scx10 II I'm trying to shorten it up. I am fitting this body to a scx10 II. I think I'll just have to see about another set of gmades I have a set of tires I can slap on that should fit well. I don't need the tires to tuck fully I just don't like them sticking out this far. Still wish someone made some 1.55's with some more positive offsets. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk ![]() |
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RCC Addict Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Australia
Posts: 1,703
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Part of the problem is 1:1 offset + & - vs RC offsets. Originally there was Berg offset and Ax10 offset wheels. As a result they described AX10 offset as positive and Berg offset as negative. Ie a AX10 offset pushed the wheels out away from the body and a Berg offset drew them inwards towards the diff. As i understand that is tge opposite in the 1:1 world. Some manufacturers speak in 1:1 and some speak in old school crawler RC talk. Others use Backspacing as a measurement. Any wheel that uses slw hubs is a good option and you can buy from LURC .185 hubs. VP smallest is .225. You can also get 4mm hexes which help. Motoworx racing do a 1.55 slw compatible wheel that i use with lurc .185 hubs on a narrow FJ Cruiser hard body with K44 axels that goes close to tucking but flares had to be added for coverage. However the more you draw your wheels in towards the centre of the diff the more clearance issues you have on knuckles and drag links etc on steering. Everything is a trade off. Boom Racing do some nice 1.55 wheels with a similar offset too. Also consider a skinnier tyre option if you want realistic tuck Also consider pin drive wheels doing away with the hex and RC4WD has some good options in their 1.7 and 1.9 wheels for that. Also SDI Designs do plastic 1.9s in 0, -3 and -5 offsets but so far ive not been able to utilise their -5 option as the wheel and tyre fowels on everything. ( note their negative offset is old RC speak and moves the hub furtger outwards drawing the wheel closer to the diffs) Alot of specific bodies need specific axles or chassis to get what you want to acheive. Your better off choosing the body first and axles and chassis 2nd rather than trying to make the set up you haclve work with the body you want. Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk Last edited by Oz Bruiser; 02-19-2017 at 08:11 PM. |
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