RCCrawler Forums

Ace · 01-09-2006, 11:37 AM

I've always heard 3 teeth in the material min. 24 tpi is .04167 spacing so that's only about 1.5 teeth in the material. But I'm 99% sure I run a 24 and 18tooth blades and haven't had any problems chiping teeth. Aluminum is very forgiving too.

24 will work great for thin sheet al. If your regularly cutting thick stuff (say .75" or greater) then you will want a course blade too.

In short, I'd say either would work but if your doing a lot of thin sheet you'll like the 24 tooth better cause it won't snag as often and throw the blade of the wheel. If you do 50/50 thick and sheet then you might consider a 18tooth and going easy cutting sheet or getting both blades and change them according to the job.

You want High carbon steel.

badger · 01-09-2006, 11:51 AM

Thanks for the quick reply!

Good thing I wasn't asking what to eat for dinner, I would have starved to death.

Ace · 01-10-2006, 07:27 PM

No problem.

I waited more than a day to reply to this!

I've been busier than Jason at a Boulder County Parks Ranger *** woopin convention.

badger · 01-10-2006, 07:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ace

I've been busier than Jason at a Boulder County Parks Ranger *** woopin convention.

LMFAO!

AdamF · 01-10-2006, 07:58 PM

Adjusting the top wheel helps keep the blade on the wheel.

Some good reading on pirate.....

(taken from the first thread)

"If the blade is coming off, you still need to play with the pitch of the upper wheel. Adjusted by loosening/tightening 1 bolt and 1 allen socket screw.
1) put the saw arm in the verticle position.
2) get a 12mm wrench and allen wrench that fits
3) open the door that encloses blade (dont wear loose clothing and if you have girl hair tie it in a bun)
4) Take a straight edge placed not on wheel mounting bolts but on flat edge of both wheels.
5) Adjust the pitch of upper wheel until level (level w/bubble is helpful)
6)once these are square, plug the saw in and get ready to adjust the blade
7) Hopefully you have the wheels close, because once you turn it on it will try to walk off, fast if your way off.

adjust the bolt/allen screw in or out, you will see how this effects the tracking of the blade.
9) oh forget tighten blade, but not super tight until pitch is correct to keep the blade on while running.
10) adjusting the guides to make a straight cut thats another headache and one my fingers dont feel like typing right now.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=427673

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=426199

01-09-2006, 11:37 AM	#41
Ace Rock Crawler Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Longmont, CO Posts: 901	I've always heard 3 teeth in the material min. 24 tpi is .04167 spacing so that's only about 1.5 teeth in the material. But I'm 99% sure I run a 24 and 18tooth blades and haven't had any problems chiping teeth. Aluminum is very forgiving too. 24 will work great for thin sheet al. If your regularly cutting thick stuff (say .75" or greater) then you will want a course blade too. In short, I'd say either would work but if your doing a lot of thin sheet you'll like the 24 tooth better cause it won't snag as often and throw the blade of the wheel. If you do 50/50 thick and sheet then you might consider a 18tooth and going easy cutting sheet or getting both blades and change them according to the job. You want High carbon steel.

01-09-2006, 11:51 AM	#42
badger Diggin' the new SCX10 II! Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Norcal Posts: 11,402	Thanks for the quick reply! Good thing I wasn't asking what to eat for dinner, I would have starved to death.

01-10-2006, 07:27 PM	#43
Ace Rock Crawler Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Longmont, CO Posts: 901	No problem. I waited more than a day to reply to this! I've been busier than Jason at a Boulder County Parks Ranger *** woopin convention.

01-10-2006, 07:58 PM	#45
AdamF RCC Addict Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Cincinnati Ohio Posts: 1,673	Adjusting the top wheel helps keep the blade on the wheel. Some good reading on pirate..... (taken from the first thread) "If the blade is coming off, you still need to play with the pitch of the upper wheel. Adjusted by loosening/tightening 1 bolt and 1 allen socket screw. 1) put the saw arm in the verticle position. 2) get a 12mm wrench and allen wrench that fits 3) open the door that encloses blade (dont wear loose clothing and if you have girl hair tie it in a bun) 4) Take a straight edge placed not on wheel mounting bolts but on flat edge of both wheels. 5) Adjust the pitch of upper wheel until level (level w/bubble is helpful) 6)once these are square, plug the saw in and get ready to adjust the blade 7) Hopefully you have the wheels close, because once you turn it on it will try to walk off, fast if your way off. adjust the bolt/allen screw in or out, you will see how this effects the tracking of the blade. 9) oh forget tighten blade, but not super tight until pitch is correct to keep the blade on while running. 10) adjusting the guides to make a straight cut thats another headache and one my fingers dont feel like typing right now. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=427673 http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=426199

Sponsored Links

RCCrawler Forums

Thread: Metal cutting Band Saws?