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07-20-2005, 12:20 AM | #1 |
MWRCA'er Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Machesney Park IL
Posts: 3,995
| Metal cutting Band Saws?
I'm thinking about getting a metal cutting band saw to make quicker work of cutting thick pieces. I want to be able to cut up to 1/4 mild steel in case I want to make some protection for my 1:1 rig. Is the harbor freight one any good? http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=37151 |
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07-20-2005, 03:48 AM | #2 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Green River Kentucky
Posts: 1,067
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The saw itsself is a half way decent saw I have used it to cut 1/4 inch steel and also .120 wall 1 5/8 dom tubing and it did fine but the legs on them suck make shure the first thing you cut is new legs or leg braces.I have that exact saw and like it but the legs are real thin sheet metal and if you use it after a while they get flimsy and the whole thing wants to wobble.I made new legs and a base for the one we have.
Last edited by syco133; 07-20-2005 at 03:51 AM. |
07-20-2005, 07:47 AM | #3 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Longmont, CO
Posts: 901
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All those type saws seem to come from the same factory. I bought mine from MSC, paid more and thought I'd get a little better product but it is exactly the same as a HF unit. They do work well and yes, the base is crap. Once you use a metal bandsaw you'll wonder how you ever got along without one. Easily the most used tool in my shop. If it broke today, I'd be in HF tomorrow to get another one. |
07-20-2005, 10:05 AM | #4 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: San Jose
Posts: 5,207
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i wish I would bought that instead of spending $190 on my dewalt chop saw i have.
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07-20-2005, 10:09 AM | #5 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Longmont, CO
Posts: 901
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I have a dewalt chop saw too. I've used it twice. Too noisy, dirty and the cuts are very ugly. I suppose if I was making trailers the dewalt would be better, but for r/c and machining the bandsaw kicks A. |
07-20-2005, 03:37 PM | #6 | |
Colt Python/SR9c Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: out in the shop, reloading ammo!
Posts: 8,626
| Quote:
wow.. I didn't get a chop saw though.. i just got a 10" miter saw. fully adjustable with all degrees and works pretty good.. but for bandsaws.. I seen a smaller one at Home depot the other day. Yes it is mainly for woodwork, but could you just get a metal cutting blade for it instead? | |
07-20-2005, 06:44 PM | #7 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: on a Big Rock
Posts: 7,837
| I have the Ryobi Band Saw from HD, and I can't find decent metal blades to fit it. |
07-20-2005, 07:55 PM | #8 | |
Colt Python/SR9c Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: out in the shop, reloading ammo!
Posts: 8,626
| Quote:
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07-20-2005, 09:36 PM | #9 |
MWRCA'er Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Machesney Park IL
Posts: 3,995
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I have one of the wood band saws fitted with a metal blade doesn't work very good. Can't cut over .060 max the blades just snap or fall off. Thats why I came here to post about this HF saw. I think I'll wait till it go's on sale again I usually see it for $154. |
07-20-2005, 09:39 PM | #10 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Cincinnati Ohio
Posts: 1,673
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I also have the HF bandsaw. It kicks butt! Yea the legs are crap, as are the wheels. I'm having problems keeping the blade on the wheel though. Keeps popping off.
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07-20-2005, 10:39 PM | #11 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Utah
Posts: 156
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I have the HF mini band saw and it won't cut straight. I've been told it's the crappy blade the comes on them, haven't investigated an alternative source for blades that will fit. I gotta do this soon as it sucks having a bandsaw that is unusable! Any ideas? David |
07-20-2005, 10:53 PM | #12 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: OC, Oregon
Posts: 803
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Ive got this one http://www.wmhtoolgroup.com/index.cf...tail&iid=11043 so far so good. but the stock blades suck. But yeah bandsaws are a very nice thing to have |
07-21-2005, 08:28 AM | #13 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Longmont, CO
Posts: 901
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Wood bandsaws are typically WAY to fast to cut metal. I've read about people adding speed reducing pulleys or gear box's and making them work but the HF one is so cheap, why bother? As for blades popping off, I think all the HF types do it. Yep the stock blade is crap and needs replaced with a "bi-metal". Also, don't be afraid to really crank on the blade tension knob. I always babied mine till I read someone saying to really crank on it. I started tightening the crap out of mine and the blades don't pop off near as often. Also, I used to really oil my blade when cutting. Used WD-40 for aluminum and tapping lube for steel. I found the wheels inside got all lubed up and slick and the blade would pop off. I cleaned my wheels and started using wax lube for bandsaws. Not oiling and using the wax helped the blade popping off too. You need to get blades with a lot of teeth if your cutting thin stuff like sheet metal. Fine teeth for harder stuff too. Cut sheet metal with big teeth and the blade will pop off every time. I get starret blades from www.use-enco.com Well worth the extra dough IMO. |
07-21-2005, 09:57 AM | #14 |
Diggin' the new SCX10 II! Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Norcal
Posts: 11,402
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I love this tools forum, so much good info! I am going to buy a HF band saw any day now. Just need to get the time to drive across the bay. Ace, where do you get that wax at? Thanks! |
07-21-2005, 11:01 AM | #15 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Longmont, CO
Posts: 901
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Castrol Stick wax $3.71 for a stick, about the size of a caulk gun tube: http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?PMPAGE=693 Works great. Also works really well for tapping and mill/lathe work on aluminum. Great stuff. To apply to the bandsaw ya just cut into the end of it with the blade running. Like you want to cut the tube in half lengthways. Just cut 1/2" though! |
07-21-2005, 03:15 PM | #16 |
Colt Python/SR9c Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: out in the shop, reloading ammo!
Posts: 8,626
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Ace... with that HF saw, would there be anyway you could just rig up a pump and areturn line and stuff? that way you can run coolant through it like the bigger machines do :? seems it wouldn't get the wheels as oily and still help keep the blade cool while cutting... EDIT-- but just looked at the pic again... seems there really is no tray of some sort on it to keep the coolant in.. owell, just a thought |
07-21-2005, 11:20 PM | #17 | |
RCC Addict Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Cincinnati Ohio
Posts: 1,673
| Quote:
I crank mine as hard as I possibly can by hand. Still pops off. I've been using cutting oil generously, and then I ran out and have been using motor oil for a while. Maybe the lube is making it pop off. I need to get a bimetal blade badly. I've bought a middle-grade one from HF (bi metal ones were sold out) and I've already chipped a tooth or 2 off of it the first time I used it. | |
07-21-2005, 11:35 PM | #18 | |
2006 2.2 National Champ Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Big Bear Lake
Posts: 8,328
| Quote:
Also, when cutting steel use a fine blade and slower rpm, for aluminum use a coarse blade with more rpm. I agree with Ace on the thin metal=fine blade too, otherwise it'll tear the material and probably break teeth off your blade. The wax is the best for band saws. | |
07-22-2005, 07:58 AM | #19 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Longmont, CO
Posts: 901
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Anyone see the biker build off when Billy Lane smashed his bandsaw with a sledgehammer? Blade popped off once to many times. I know the feeling but I'm not much for beating up tools... Open up the guard and clean all that oil off with brake cleaner, make sure you clean the blade and the wheels (take off the blade). My wheels were soaked in oil. Not oiling made a huge improvement. |
07-25-2005, 06:57 PM | #20 |
Newbie Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 16
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Any downside to useing a metal cutting bandsay to cut wood? Only think I can think of is it would take longer to cut due to the slower speed. Any info would be great! If there are not to many negatives with cutting wood, I might be getting one in the near future! Thanks in advance! |
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